1989 volvo 760 d24tic stopped running

[ngoma]

From early on, post #4:

Originally Posted by Foghorn117

It turns over, all the belts are in working order.

[Foghorn117]

First off. I just wanted to say I appreciate all the help. I'm going to take all the advice that you you are all giving me and put it into action. I'm going to start with just pulling the battery get it on a charger get it warm. So that's something I don't have to worry about. And then I guess I'm going to read bleed the system. I do have the timing tools. But I will need to get a new dial indicator due to it not being able to have the thread adapter for the length. It's needed to read it properly. The car ran before it was towed. I wonder if that played a factor in it losing Prime. Due to the car being running and driving. I don't think that it would be so drastic. As it skip timing, but it is a fair point and I will check in.

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by ngoma

From early on, post #4:

Sorry, I guess I missed seeing that. That is the timing belts we are referring to? Or the accessory belts?

Foghorn117 that plan sounds like a pretty good one. But one reason I was suggesting looking at timing next, is I thought you guys already determined that you had gotten plenty of fuel out of the hard fuel lines to the injectors. If you had fuel running out of those unions, then everything is primed.

[Foghorn117]

V8volvo I was thing the same, thattining might be a issue do to it being towed and mis handled by a vandel who dragged in with there truck drink and than cops towed it. That's were i thinking that it lost prime or timing of the pump. I did have the pump/ injectors rebuilt by Giles in Ontario. The performance rebulid. But do know if the timing was originally set higher. I'll have to get a different dail indicator. To fit in the pump.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by Foghorn117

When I picked it up from the tow yard it started up fine as soon as I drove it out it just sputtered out as if it lost fueling....
...The car ran in the yard a drove it like 100 feet just till it got out of there yard and it died. It was running normal before it died. Just like always did.

That is not how the car would behave if a vandal had sabotaged the timing.

Are you unable to follow the steps given in the two stickies I listed above?

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by Foghorn117

might be a issue do to it being towed and mis handled by a vandel

I would try to not get your mind too stuck on the idea that the problems were caused by being towed. It might have something to do with it. But it also might be a simple coincidence.

As ngoma pointed out, almost any kind of tampering a tow truck driver or other mischief maker could have done would probably have caused the car to not start at all. The fact that it started and ran normally for some time and distance before it died doesn't fit well with that theory. Major blunt force damage to fuel lines or fuel tank might lead to issues like yours, but if anything like that had happened you probably would have already noticed it by now, since it likely would have also involved lots of other easily visible damage to the surrounding areas.

Unless you have seen obvious evidence that the car or undercarriage was damaged during the tow, better to try not to think about that idea for now and just focus on eliminating possibilities for why it stalled, using an organized diagnostic process. Start with the stickies ngoma linked. Regardless of what events made the problem begin, at this point you just need to figure out what the problem is so that you can solve it.

No need for a dial indicator for a rough visual timing check, just a 27mm socket and ratchet. Probably can find the procedure for using the flywheel and IP pulley marks with a search here, or if not, just ask us.

[Foghorn117]

Now that I have the space to check out why my car isn't running. I have a dial indicator and 2066 cummins part. What's the beat way to start? Thanks

[ngoma]

What's the beat way to start? Start the car? Get the car started? I think that's what you mean? Work your way thru the hard starting sticky, linked above. [Later...] Changed my mind. Start at the Air in Fuel Section first. Copied below. I have removed what I think does not apply to your situation.

Ask us at any point if you get stuck or confusing results.

Here it is, edited Air in Fuel Section:

Air in Fuel Section

Hard starting-- air in the fuel system.

Fuel system needs 100% liquid supply. Air mixed in with liquid fuel will cause problems.

Performance problems or hard starting problems can often be traced to air intrusion into the Injection Pump.

We often ask to install a temporary section of clear tubing or hose to the IP return fuel hose. This will allow visual inspection of air bubbles (or not) in the IP return-to-tank fuel line.

We use evidence of air in the IP return to infer air intrusion into the IP, where there should be no air.

Test for fuel to injectors by loosening an injector to injector line sealing nut, crank engine with ignition on, and verify small spurts of fuel forced out of the end of the injector line. Just small drips of fuel out the end of the injector line, not foam. Take care to avoid getting fuel on any hoses, it will easily damage them. Do not overtighten the nut when reconnecting. Injector line connector nuts torque spec: 25Nm / 18ft-lbs.

[v8volvo]

Foghorn117, any luck yet with the tips in the post above?

[Foghorn117]

Get into the car today, I fixed the rear temp sensor that I stripped. But it cranks but I'm not getting fuel out of the screw in the fuel filter housing or the lines.so I definitely think it's a hard starting situation. I seen a slight drop from under the pump, but it shouldn't be leaking since Giles re bulit it. Any suggestions. I spent 3 hour tinkering. Hopefully not timing...