#11
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just picked up an 85 745 TD. this is one of the 1st things ill look at
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#12
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`Crossmember day`
Bingo... I found a crack on passenger side.
Now, get out there and inspect yours! |
#13
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Lucky you, an opportunity to remove a ton of grit and grime without doing any cleaning.
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#14
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Looks familiar. Going to weld it?
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#15
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You can drill a small hole (1/8") at the end of each crack, to relieve the tendency for the crack to travel further. Then keep it under observation.
After repair (by welding or replacement w/ upgraded crossmember), you can add these crossmember reinforcements, shown in green in this first photo: Should still be available from Volvo Vadis diagram: These came standard on 960s, so maybe you can find some at a JY.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#16
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Quote:
I really enjoyed the quality photos of cracks+the repairs in this great thread. I went through it several times, saying `what the hell... is it soo common?` then I decided to see my crossmember... I`ll take your advice: drill, weld, inspect again... while I will be trying to locate a pick-and-pull junkyard nearby. Thank you for the quick answer, it is very helpful! |
#17
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Excellent info on the part numbers for the factory fix. Thanks.
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J.D. in Reno 1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now) 1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD 1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it) 1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD) 1996 TDI Passat 1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD 2006 V10 TDI Touareg |
#18
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Yea, I just said I wanted a crossmember from any 16v 740.
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'84 760 D24T/M46 '86 Isuzu Trooper Turbo Diesel '01 VW Golf TDI |
#19
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Cracked XM
Hi Ngoma, Casio,
great to know that the 16V crossmember is an option for us. Is it a true bolt-in design which means no welding or fabrication will be needed? Thanks a lot |
#20
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No welding or fabrication required. You will need to transfer the right side engine mount angled base from your old crossmember. Again, bolt-in.
__________________
1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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