#11
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Why do you say not to use MTL in the M46? I have heard nothing but positive reports about it. Everyone I have asked says it works great in M46s. I just bought a bunch to install into my 764 next week. What's the issue?
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#12
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#13
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#14
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ATF is the fluid Volvo specifies as the correct fill for the M46. However, they also specifiy that 10W30 or 10W40 is equally acceptable in areas where temperatures don't get too low (some very low number that never occurs around here). Redline MTL is a recommended replacement in applications specifying 10W30 oil in the gearbox, so according to that logic it ought to be fine in the M46.
Kevin what problems have you seen with MTL? And in your experience, does it matter what kind of ATF is used in the steering? I think the Volvo spec is to use Type F, but it seems like regular Dex/Merc ought to be fine as well...
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#15
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ok, so i got the steering rack out today, and the new one in. on the sheet that came with it, it says i need to flush the fluid out of the pump. in order to do that i need to crank the engine without starting it. i am having trouble finding the wire i need to disconnect to do this.
I also got a new tire to replace the worn one. it was warn on the outside edge of the front left, so it needed an allignment anyways. i also cleaned the car up a bit, and am installing a subwoofer in the trunk. I'll probably get a new head unit a little down the road too. i think i'm going to start a garage thread with pictures. |
#16
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btw, getting that steering rack out was a real bitch. the tool they were trying to rent me was going for 160 per day....so i said ef that. the 10 tool sold in stores did nothing but squish the grease out, so i ended up grabbing a 3 foot prybar, wedging that in there between the tie rod and the main wheel mount bracket really well, then standing on it, and jumping repeatedly. i weigh about 200 and there was at least a 10:1 ratio on that bar. i was jumping so with my weight and the g forces, i would estimate the force necessary to get it off was about 3000 pounds. oh, and i had to take the aftermarket sway bar off to get the u brackets off... but it's cool, i got it done, just took closer to 8 hours in total for me, instead of 20 minutes. i didn't do an alignment, though it's not pulling at all. i rotated the tires so i have the back, with good thread in the front now. good enough for now...
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#17
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If you mean a ball joint separator, the best type is the one meant for small HGV's or vans. The cheap ones from accessory shops are intended for more puny vehicles!
Separating joints with a prybar can cause distortion. Mine was made by Sykes-pickavant and bought for £12.00 from ebay. New ones are about £70 -120 new dependant on manufacturer.. Regards John D |
#18
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i got it right next to the ball joint so i think it was all gravy. didn't notice any distortions. thanks for the heads up though. |
#19
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HGV=Stationwagon
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#20
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yo. thanks, cool
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