Died While Driving

[DieselScout]

The hose connecting my Fuel Filter to the IP is not clear on this car (it is on my other D24, though)

The car died suddenly and hasn't started since.

[v8volvo]

I don't see yet where you confirmed the status of the timing belts. Before doing anything else, you need to confirm BOTH of the following in this order:

1) REAR BELT IS INTACT (present, no stripped teeth, not excessively loose)
2) REAR BELT TURNS WHEN THE ENGINE IS BEING CRANKED

The first question checks that the camshaft is able to turn the injection pump. The second is an indirect check of the front timing belt and the crank and cam sprockets by seeing if the crankshaft can turn the camshaft. [We will all cross our fingers that you answer "yes" on that one.]

These are both simple visual checks that require no tools or disassembly. The rear belt is visible in plain sight even when its cover is installed (assuming the belt is still there of course). Let us know if photos would help.

Don't go further with any other tests of the fuel delivery system until you have checked this out and can definitively answer YES to both of the questions above.

[ngoma]

Very good v8volvo, that does make sense. Worthy of the beginnings of a sticky in the "Help! My car died!" forum. I will make a starting attempt on that soon (no pun intended ).

[Intercooler-BurnzZ]

Originally Posted by Intercooler-BurnzZ

The fuel pump belt is tighten? If not it maybe skipped and now the pump setting is all gone...could be a reason why it's not starting anymore...

This is just what I mentioned.
If the belt just skipped (a few) teeth there should come out diesel from the injector line anyway, just in wrong timing.
But when the rear belt is not getting the pump turning at all, there would be no wonder why no fuel comes out at all.
But this you should notice at once while cranking and one person is watching the engine.
In theory, I can't imagine the rear gear from the camshaft has loosen itself and is not able to get the pump running.
But it has no notch, so it would be able to turn in any way when the screw is not fixed properly to the camshaft.

Regards,
Bernd

[DieselScout]

The gear behind the engine moves BUT the rear timing belt and IP gear do not move.

[ngoma]

That is a good sign , indicating that the more catastrophic possibilities (engine internal rotating parts damage) have not occurred in your case.

My quick thoughts for failure possibilities to explain your current situation of the rear camshaft sprocket not turning the IP belt, in order of best case scenario to worst:

1. Loose IP belt. Not very likely given that everything has been working for some time. No way really for the belt to loosen. If the IP mounting came loose, it would drop under its own weight which would tighten the belt.

2. Old/worn IP belt deterioriated to the point of losing enough teeth to not engage with the rear camshaft sprocket cogs.

3. Seized IP

Can you test the IP belt tension? An easy method: In the middle, between the two sprockets, twist the belt between thumb and finger. Belt should be able to easily twist at least 45deg to almost 90 deg without a lot of force. Any tighter that that is too tight, any looser is too loose.

Do you know how old the IP belt is? Does it look somewhat new and fresh, with sharp edges and squared-off teeth or is it weathered, with smoothed and rounded edges, and cracking like old tires?

[DieselScout]

The belt is about 1.5-2 years old with about 1000 miles or less.

The belt tension seems to move describes it should....
BUT
I had a helper apply pressure/tension to the rear belt with end of a crowbar while I cranked and the IP sprocket began to turn until "voila" the engine came to life.....until my helper released tension to the belt and the engine died again.

So it's a loose belt?

[ngoma]

Then logically the belt should have several stripped teeth where it wraps around the rear camshaft sprocket. Can you verify that?

[DieselScout]

I was able to move the belt; There's about 10"-12" of teeth missing.

So a new belt and I should be back on the road?
Anything else I should have checked?
Could this have done any other damage?

Is it likely that this was caused by higher engine temperatures after my coolant hose blew or was this belt improperly installed by the previous mechanic?

[ngoma]

The next step is to see if you can turn the IP sprocket. Since the belt is already stripped we won't worry about damaging that.

The IP shaft is surprisingly difficult to turn by hand but can be done. You might be able to get a wrench on the pulley nut (tighter clearance in a 240) and see if you can turn the shaft. If it feels really locked don't force it, but you should be able to feel it can be rocked back and forth a few degrees in the slack section before it starts to come up against the internal spring pressure building up in the internal cam ramps. It will take increasingly stronger force to continue thru the spring force at the height of the ramp, then after its peak it will snap ahead on its own (spring pressure) to the next slack zone.

With wrench on the nut your leverage is sufficient to be able to rotate the shaft. I would go clockwise on the nut (as if tightening), otherwise you risk loosening the nut. Unless the IP internals are already damaged, there is no problem rotating the IP shaft in the reverse direction.

See if you can rotate the shaft, there should be 6 spring-loadings and 6 "valleys" per revolution.

If it is locked up that is another story.

Originally Posted by DieselScout

So a new belt and I should be back on the road?

Need to see if the IP rotates first, make sure it hasn't seized.

Originally Posted by DieselScout

Anything else I should have checked?

No we are progressing in an orderly fashion.

Originally Posted by DieselScout

Is it likely that this was caused by higher engine temperatures after my coolant hose blew or was this belt improperly installed by the previous mechanic?

It is possible but not easy to verify direct cause yet.