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  #41  
Old 02-27-2014, 12:37 PM
doingitsideways doingitsideways is offline
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Forgot the "From Steve" bit on here, Rich!

Erm... Steve!
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  #42  
Old 03-19-2014, 03:10 AM
raw raw is offline
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Hi all,

Still here! Been mega busy with uni stuff, coursework load is always at it’s heaviest at this point in the semester, but still going not the only thing I’ve been busy with, been playing with this in spare time too, as those who are friends with me on facebook may have seen.



Our season opener at the Tour of Epynt 2014 didn’t go so well though with a retirement on the road section coming back to service after stage two. Suspected headgasket failure we think, but it remains to be seen how much further damage was done in the resulting overheat and whether this will effect the plans for the remainder of the season! Still, could have been worse!



So, on to the subject of this thread! Car! In anticipation of plans that are afoot (i.e. stripping the underseal and repairing all rust, before re undersealing for the next 25 years), what is the best option for the underbody protection of the car following this?

At the moment I’m considering two options:

1) POR15, very well recommended, one treatment, VERY hard and very good at stopping rust. Not really designed for use under cars and arguably possibly too hard and prone to cracking? Nigh on impossible to overpaint due to hardness apparently, and likes to be applied ONLY to perfectly clean bare metal. Certainly the reputation is that this stuff is unbelievably good at protecting metal, but what if I ever needed to take it off!
2) 2) Epoxy based paint. (Like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSTBUSTER...9a59f1&afsrc=1) Spray able from a normal spray gun, similar priced, and I believe what modern underseal is based on? Can be used in primer form and then overpainted with stone chip type paint and then chassis black, which I think would look more OEM, and also stand up to road use, stones etc better?

What are people’s opinions, and where should I obtain materials from?

Richard
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  #43  
Old 03-19-2014, 02:24 PM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Freedom CA
Vehicle: 85 745, 84Suburban 96Ram
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POR hates grease, but likes a lightly rusted surface as it can grip even more if that makes any sense.
there is an additive you can get to help paint stick over it, and I think another to help it not fade from UV.
I did the Chassis of my 68 Firebird about 15 years ago, and its still looking pretty good, can't say the same about the body parts I did with paint.
.
I'm not sure what kind of class those little cars are, but it looks like a load of fun.
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  #44  
Old 03-19-2014, 03:35 PM
raw raw is offline
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Northamptonshire, England
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Cheers for the reply, any info I can get on the different options is great as it's all going towards my final decision

As for the cars, well amusingly all the three I posted were Darrians which is impressive seeing as of 107 entrants at the tour of epynt (first round of the British Tarmac rally championship) only 7 were Darrians. The grey one that I was helping out with is team promotive's t9 V6 which runs in class b12 FYI (basically the big boys class, fighting it out with the WRC imprezzas and fords and the likes.

Rich
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Last edited by raw; 03-26-2014 at 03:09 PM. Reason: Corrected Autocorrect's Inability to accept the correct spelling of Darrian
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  #45  
Old 03-26-2014, 03:08 PM
raw raw is offline
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Location: Northamptonshire, England
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Nipped to the motor club this afternoon (meant to be doing a tip run for them, which we didn't leave for until after the tip closed - then hit every red light in loughborough, before releasing the tip was closed, and then hitting every red light on the way back too!).

did manage to set my injection pump timing correctly though, which it turns out I was right to think it was a little advanced. got the gauge on it and it was at 1.47mm (should be 0.95-1.05 ish I think). It's now set to 0.98 and what a difference! Soo much smoother and more refined without all that rattle all the time! Hopefully I'll see some improvement on the fuel economy too!

That's all for now folks.

Richard
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  #46  
Old 03-31-2014, 11:06 AM
raw raw is offline
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Location: Northamptonshire, England
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Broke my radiator top pipe, new ones are apparently different to petrol cars? Best price so far that is definitely for the right car is £234 +P&P. Have found some cheaper options but not sure. Any ideas?

In other news, just ordered:

1ltr Panel Wipe
6ltr UPOL Gravitex Stone Chip
1 Shutz Gun
1kg Brushable Seam Sealer
2000mm x 500mm Sound Deadening Pad
2.5ltr Rustbuster 421 'Custom' Epoxy Primer (Grey)
1ltr FE-123 Rust Nutraliser
and a paint mixing cup :P

My bank account is now nearly £200 lighter :|

Richard
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