injection

[HetLaeN]

Hi,

I have a D24 TIC with a modified diesel pump. I wondered if the nozzles could be changed from original to something that could deliver more diesel to the engine or anything that could make more power with changing the nozzles?

Little bit info about the engine:

The engine is original just with turbo, but have mounted a big air/air intercooler. The diesel pump is modified by changing the pisten to a 12mm that is taken from a cummins 5.9l. The turbo is a garret T3 and the wastegate is disconnected. The earlier owner had the boost up to 4 bars

here is a movie if you wonder what beast it is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWML1UBG9d0

[Jason]

Its in a tractor?? Pretty cool!

The nozzle you want to use is the GTD nozzle, its a DNOSD273 number. They have a better spray pattern and are supposed to make better power than the stock 193 or 293 nozzles.

Jason

[HetLaeN]

Thanks how much more power do you think
I can get with those nozzles? And how many
horsepower do you think it is in the engine? I
don't have any idea on how much it is :P

It is actually just a frame with a "volvo" engine,
M45 transmission, and a volvo 240 rear axle^^
And the competiton class is named
"Modified Tractor 600kg" or "Garden Tractor 600kg"

[Jason]

Ya on that run in the vid is sounded like you broke something at the end of the run... What is your competition like? (what other engines are used in the class, is it diesel only?) Any pics or other videos would be cool, I would love to see them.

As far as the nozzle is concerned, its not that it really flows more, but the spray pattern and atomization is better. The IDI nozzles don't have a specific opening diameter like a direct injected diesel, what controlls flow is how much the injection pump is pushing, and therefore how much the needle is being lifted off the seat of the nozzle. With the 12mm head you have the fueling potential for sure. What other pump mods have you done? It looks like it was using all the fuel, there wasn't much smoke once the turbo spooled. Have you shimmed the gov, ground the fuel pin? For that matter, in a application like yours thats full race, I would remove the AFC lever all together, as even with a ground pin it still limits fuel somewhat. How much boost are you pushing?

I have heard with the 12mm head, other pump mods, and enough boost to clean it up these engines will push 300hp at the flywheel. There was a member on here that hasn't been on in a bit, that made 269 hp to the rear wheels, which is just over 300 at the flywheel. Torque was I think in the 400 range.

Jason

[HetLaeN]

Yep, on the vid the diff broke, or a more precise word is crushed
In my class it is maximum 3,5 litres, only gas or diesel, only piston engines, you can not use any type of air compressing if the engine block has never been produced with that, (But if i have a D24, and build it to a D24T it does not matter because it is the "same" block) and you have to be maximum 600kg with driver and ready to pull. Other engines in my class is a Rover v8 with 3,5l, a Volvo T5 with turbo and a friend of me is building a new puller, han he uses a 2,8l six cyl, diesel turbo from Nissan Laurel.

I can try to upload some pictures after the weekend, beacause we have done some changes, and we were finished with painting the frame yesterday and we have to get everything together and start the engine after a looong winter and after some gasket changes and we are going to try to pull on saturday.

The track was too dry that day on the movie, and therefore the clay was just like dust, and you dont get much traction on dust, and that is the reason it does not smoke more. On the vid because it don't have enough resistance. It is just having 1,5 bar, and i have never been over that because the diff is breaking long before i start to get over 1,5bar :P But the earlier owner talked about that they had driven it to 4 bars, or 58 psi.

I was looking at this forum about nozzles, and someone talked about "135bar something", and at our it stands 155 bar, why and what?:P

what is the "AFC"? Is it hard to disconnect the gov or anything that works, or do you have any picture on how to do and how it looks? And is the fuel pin supposed to be all out or all inn to give maximum?

[Jason]

http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=91

Reat through that post... That details some pump mods.

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=24323.0
there is gov mod which I detailed in my post, but with lots of pictures.

You can grind your fuel pin, or remove the AFC lever all together. I tried to find a good writeup on afc lever removal but didn't come across one. Grinding the fuel pin and adjusting the star wheel down will still add quite a bit of fuel.

Jason

[Jason]

For injector rebuild, I would suggest upping the pop pressure. Stock pressure is 2200 to 2300psi (not exactly but in that area). When I rebuilt mine, I upped the pressure to between 2400 and 2450psi (around 160 bar). You don't want to go too high, but a little higher will help fuel atomization. Higher pressure also retards timing slightly, so you may want to compensate by advancing the timing a little more.

Jason

[HetLaeN]

The homemade water injection, is that "stealing" much boost?

After all the gov reading I am thinking of that it is maybe done already, because on lower rev it is nothing problem at all, it is actually smooth, but when I am reving higher and doing it slowly and in same speed it suddenly comes to a point that the revs increase very much. But after that it is all fine.

Thanks for all the tips

[Jason]

The water/meth injection is an option for lowering EGTs, but if you already have an intercooler, you probably don't need to bother with it. Since the engine was already set up as a hot rod pulling engine, I would suspect the gov has been shimmed already. You should take the lid off the AFC housing and pull out your fuel cone and see if it has been ground though.

Jason