Turbocharger rebuilding

[Jacobd]

Hello all! First post on here although I’ve been lurking in the shadows for quite a while. I have a 1983 Volvo 760 GLE, D24T mated to a m46. The car is in incredible shape and has a mere 40k miles on it. Body is laser straight without a speck of rust anywhere. Interior is complete and in near perfect shape barring the door carpet inserts falling(fell) out, headliner sags, and the center console lid is hammered.
Anyways, the car sat in a garage for a long time in Southern California before I bought it. Was running when purchased. Put maybe 2,500 miles on it with minimal issues, small coolant leak (pinhole in radiator) is about the only problem she exhibited. UNTIL one day on startup it ran really rough and smoked excessively. Upon further inspection I discovered fuel quite literally pouring out from between IP body and distributor head, dang. Pulled IP, all 6 injectors, turbo, valve cover and timing covers front and rear. IP and injectors were left with a local diesel shop and rebuilt completely. Tony at Santa Rosa diesel also supplied the turbo rebuild kit and I’m currently rebuilding that as well. (If anyone has any literature for the Garrett/airesearch 075145703 I’d appreciate anything I can get, I have the green books but the turbo specifically doesn’t seem to be covered). So far after A LOT of searching and spending a whole bunch of euros, pounds sterling and Canadian dollars I’ve collected all the parts I need to do; timing belts, front and rear, including idler pulley and water pump. Cam seals and 1 piece valve cover gasket, injector heat shields and fuel return lines. From my research I feel confident in my ability to instal and time IP. I have a torque wrench that goes up to 400ftlbs so I won’t need the cheater bar but will need to fabricate some kind of a counter hold for the crank pulley bolt. My thought is buy an impact socket with as close an outside diameter as I can get to the inside diameter of the pulley, grind the two slots into it and weld some bar stock to it in a way that it can rest against a yet to be determined component. Dial indicator and holder seem easy enough, vacuum pump is already removed so we don’t have to worry about finding the elusive short holder. What I need now is the wrench for the gears themselves, as well as the IP locking pin (maybe? I’m not sure if that piece is 100% necessary as I’ve read things that say yes and others that say no) I want to do this by the book, it won’t be a racecar. I’m not sure exactly where to put this post and forgive me if I didn’t need to start a new thread but much of the info on here is kinda old and a lot of the links are dead. What I want to know is if anyone has info on the turbo rebuild process, and if there’s anything I’m missing. On the ford IDI’s I’ve had I know that the glow plug system can be problematic, not sure if that applies to the d24’s. Also wanting to install a charge air cooler at some point, I’ve seen several write ups in other threads but if anyone has part numbers and fitment photos that’d be great!
Sorry this is a lot and not very organized but I’m so close now I can taste it I just want to make sure nothing slips through the cracks

[ngoma]

Welcome to the forum!

Originally Posted by Jacobd

What I want to know is if anyone has info on the turbo rebuild process, and if there’s anything I’m missing.

I'm just curious why the turbo needs rebuilding at 40,000 miles? (as well as the injectors?)

Originally Posted by Jacobd

On the ford IDI’s I’ve had I know that the glow plug system can be problematic, not sure if that applies to the d24’s.

D24 really wants ALL the GPs operating. Even one nonop GP can cause hard starting. So use Bosch Duraterm, the most reliable we have found. The rearmost two GPs can be difficult to access so my recommendation is to proactively replace those while you already have the IP out of the way.

Originally Posted by Jacobd

Sorry this is a lot and not very organized...

Well it was a huge block of one paragraph so it was hard to read. I may have missed somethings.

[Jacobd]

I wouldn’t say the turbo is in urgent need of a rebuild but since I have it out I figured why not. 0 end play but a bit of a wiggle axially, not sure what the tolerance is. I know that some axial play is typical but the parts were inexpensive and it seemed like cheap insurance.

That’s exactly the kind of thing I wanted to know as far as GP system, easy access with IP removed so I’ll add that to the list, and thank you for the reference. Bosch seems to be a safe bet for most of the parts I’ve seen around.


As far as post structure, yes it was really bad. In the future It’ll be more organized and direct.

Thanks!

[ngoma]

I don't recall very many turbos needing repairs.

[v8volvo]

Welcome! I remember hearing about this car back when it first emerged from storage. Very nice to hear it's still in good hands and getting some use, as well as the care it deserves!

Turbos tend to last hundreds of thousands of miles on these engines so as ngoma said, you may have more worthwhile things to spend your efforts on unless you are seeing an actual issue there.

Glow plug control systems are generally reliable on these engines, much more so than on the Ford/IH IDI motors where I agree there can be problems. A set of 6 new Bosch Duraterm plugs is a good investment.

Glad to hear you're doing timing belts on it, as that would be the biggest concern considering the age. Keep an eye on ebay for the tools. I also have a spare set I have loaned out to others as needed over the years. Feel free to send me a PM if that would help.

You are smart to be doing this all the right way and not cutting any corners on such a special car! It will be worth the effort for sure. Just let us know if we can help with any info or resources as you work through it.

[Jacobd]

Fantastic! Thanks for all the info, I’ve got a set of GP’s ordered and everything else I need is ready to go. Turbo rebuild complete as well (I’d already pulled it apart at the time of my original post, oh well I suppose)

I’ll keep everyone posted on progress!

Jake