#21
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Alright i'll check again, just printed the workshop manual
Last time i did the timing belt I replaced the crank bolt, is it actually necessary to do so? I remember I bought one of the last ones in stock. The manual also says to replace the flywheel bolts.. Would like to get everything done and back in the car tomorrow rather than waiting for expensive bolts. Last edited by 245d6; 05-28-2023 at 11:22 AM. |
#22
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I cannot comment on the flywheel bolts. If they are torque to yield (TTY) bolts that could be a reason to replace them. Good luck!
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Jim 1985 Volvo 740 GLE turbo diesel |
#23
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Since last post I swapped the engines, did a full service including belts and timing of the pump. New engine is (first 100km's) much better I think. No smoke yet, starts easily and sounds healthier. Doesn't overheat and its faster than the old engine (or less slow..)
First thing I noticed is the cold start device, which is actually working on the new engine. Idle speed is high and it takes about 10 minutes of driving to warm up the engine and get the idle revs down, is this normal? I would guess a minute of high idle would also be good, but it takes some time to warm up the coolant for the wax stat to return? 2nd, it's sweating a bit of oil at the headgasket under / near the vacuum pump and behind the injection pump. Not much but noticable, could this be problematic? Rather not pull the head.. 3rd is oil pressure, takes a bit longer (5 seconds?) To build up when cold, other engine was a bit faster. Am running 5w40 fully synthetic oil specified for diesels. Before swapping the engines i pulled the pan to replace the leaking gasket & fix a stripped bolt, oil pickup screen was/is clean. During valve adjustment i threw some extra oil on the cams, overfilling the engine. Maybe am extra liter at max, should I drain or just keep some extra in there (think i read somewhere these engines can use some extra oil). Valve cover is leaking oil on to intake / exhaust. It did have the one piece rubber gasket but someone used quite some liquid gasket on it before, could this gasket have gone bad? Tried tightening the studs but no luck. Overall, until now a succesful engine swap |
#24
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High idle speed is adjusted by moving the ball stud on the throttle arm, not by moving the cable end clamp. Quote:
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Good job!
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#25
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Wax stat wasn't even working on the other engine so I was quite surprised at first start. Only when coolant reaches temperature (80 degrees C) it starts to idle normally, which takes some time driving, about 10 mins. Idling probably much longer but I always try to avoid idling for too long. Is there a way to convert it to a manual cold start device? Sort of like a choke? Or are these wax stats still available somewhere? Otherwise i might try to disconnect it, it's summer now anyway.
I'll leave the head gasket for now then, no big leaks and haven't found oil in my coolant yet. Regarding oil pressure, car is parked on flat ground, i'll see how it goes coming months. maybe switch to a 10w40 next oil change? Tried tightening the studs but still leaking, going to try a new gasket as this one is covered with liquid gasket. |
#26
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Last I checked, waxstat was getting scarce but still available. Search forum here for P/N.
Mine is also inop and I have thought about converting it to a manual, using a lawnmower throttle control cable like this: https://discountonlineparts.com/lawn...versal&id=2593 Didn't the early VW Rabbits with the 4-cyl version use something like it? Cold start lever on the IP is difficult to operate unless the IP internals are rotating. My engine evidently has good compression and starts reliably without the cold start, even in cold conditions, maybe yours is similar?
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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