740 Front Crossmember Cracks

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by ngoma

No welding or fabrication required. You will need to transfer the right side engine mount angled base from your old crossmember. Again, bolt-in.

I would like to prepare for this crossmember swap and do it in the upcoming weeks. So... in case parts are used from a non-d24t car:
there`s absolutely no welding necessary when transfering the `right side engine mount angled base` either?

(My other option is, as V8volvo suggested in another post, to grab the spare 1985 d24t crossmember (I have it from a parts car) and get it reinforced at all necessary spots first, then install that right after taking the cracked one out. I might prefer doing it this way but if someone can tell me for sure what exact models` crossmembers I could use; then I may try ordering it... or finding a good and proper donor non-d24t model Volvo in a junkyard before winter hits. I am just not totally sure what exact other volvo 700/900 models have the crossmember that works best for the 740 d24t car. )

Thanks for the comfirmation.

P.S.: I noticed the cracks on my d24t crossmember about 7yrs ago, both sides. Back then, as NGoma suggested I drilled holes at the ends of those cracks to stop the gaps from `spreading`. It doesnt look severe but we never know, right? I don`t think they worsened a lot but it is time to get this project gone from my checklist.

[RedArrow]

I just found this from the same thread (written by forum member v8volvo):

" FWIW, model year 1986 appears to have been the changeover point to the newer crossmember design. 1983-1985 700 series diesels will be affected by this problem, probably on "not if, but when" basis....

For diesel owners looking for replacement crossmembers, 1989-1991 740 and 940 GLE models having the 16-valve B234F gasoline 4-cylinder are the only other models that use a welded-on lower mount bracket on the left side like the diesel models have, and they were manufactured after the change to the updated crossmember design, IOW, they use the same desirable crossmember that the diesels only got for their final model year in 1986. In cases where an original crossmember is too far gone to be repaired by welding as detailed above, this may be the easiest way to find a replacement. "

The pictures posted earlier in this thread are awesome. It is great help when rechecking and evaluating the cracks my car has. Thanks.

I hope someone can also confirm about the welding part (in the case when a different model donor XM is used)

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by RedArrow

I hope someone can also confirm about the welding part (in the case when a different model donor XM is used)

Confirmed. Please see posts #19 & 20 from this thread.