Timing belt - questions about an "easy" version.

[v8volvo]

Hi Mario, welcome to the forum.

The method you suggested for dealing with the center crankshaft bolt is pretty risky. The torque on this bolt is high enough that you can strip teeth off the flywheel ring gear or break the end off the chisel inside the bellhousing, requiring removal of the engine or transmission to fish out the parts or replace the flywheel. I have several flywheels and flexplates here with broken teeth from people trying this. Glad it luckily worked out for you, this one time, but it might result in damage the next time or for someone else who tries it. Thus, we try to avoid recommendations like this here if they involve a large factor of luck in order to work and a large risk of serious damage if the luck doesn't come through. Just a word of caution.

It's safer (and much easier!) to use the correct tool for locking the crankshaft or build a similar homemade one. This way all the torque is contained to the balancer and the bolt itself, rather than being transferred through the crankshaft, flywheel teeth, etc and risking damage. The tool is not that hard to find (especially in Europe where you can also find one for a 5-cylinder Audi TD or TDI which are everywhere there and use the a very similar crank pulley setup....). It makes the job easy, you can do it on your own without a helper to hold a chisel, and you know for sure that it will work and you'll get the engine apart and back together and achieve the right torque, without breaking anything.

Here for reference is a tool set on UK Ebay for around $30 that would work just as well as the factory Volvo crank holder tool, with only very minor modification. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diesel-En...0AAOSwBIVdx6lp

The only thing you would have to do to use this is cut a section out of the other side of the ring that fits inside the crank damper recess. Easily done with an angle grinder in about one minute. The only difference between the D24/D24T crank pulley and the 2.5L 5cyl Audi one is that the Audi pulley has one locking lug whereas the D24 type has two, thus the single opening in the Audi tool. Once you do this, you can plug a breaker bar into the square opening and you have your factory type counterhold for just a few bucks and a minute or two of work. Nice for you folks in Europe who can get these easily -- these tool sets are not readily available on our shores here in the US.

See attached images below of how the Audi setup looks for comparison.

[v8volvo]

Dahicori, now that I understand how that bar stock tool you have is intended to work for holding the crankshaft, I think it would do the job OK. It looks like you insert the bent section between two of the lugs in the pulley to hold it? And maybe rest the end of the bar against the ground or against the car's frame rail?

You could always give it a try, and if the tool is not strong enough and breaks, you don't have much to lose except for a few days of time waiting for a replacement. Audi TDI engine tools like the one linked in the post above are probably easily purchased on French Ebay as well. Just search for a timing belt tool kit for a 2.5L FIVE CYLINDER Audi or Volkswagen LT TDI engine (not the 2.5L V6 TDI which is different), or for a Volvo S70 or V70 2.5 TDI up to model year 2000. It should give you everything you need for the job except for the dial indicator and holder, which should be easy to find also, and a camshaft pulley counterhold tool and bent wrench like Volvo 9995199 and 9995201 which you should be able to easily improvise with modified standard hand tools.

[dahicori]

hey Mario and V8volvo, thank for your support (along with ngoma!)

v8volvo, I texted the ex-owner to fully grasp the use of this tool. I think it should works, as he used it to settle many timing gears on D24 and D24T. But your hypothesis seems to be the clue and the car's frame rail looks like an appropriate support.

https://www.tradera.com/item/302213/...erktyg-9995201

Look at that! the mother Volvo tool. put in auction 2 days ago. Located in the mother Volvo ground. We can read on the bottom "for nordic buyers only".

so instead, and please don't poke fun at me as I am no engineer

It's a carbon windsurfing mast, it is about 2 meters long. Will it hold the torque?? please do not tear my daydreams into pieces!

[ngoma]

Cheater bar for the torque wrench?

[dahicori]

I don't understand, are you suggesting me to buy a cheater bar? Or are you asking me if this mast is a cheater bar ?

[ngoma]

Asking if you are planning to use the hollow mast as a cheater bar for the torque wrench.

[dahicori]

well, these things are meant to bend, so I think it is stupid. I am working on an other solution but with the quarantine it is kind of complicated....

[dahicori]

Hey there,

I was thinking about how crucial the tightening of the bolt. And I came across the website of a shop lacated in netherlands, they sell 9995188 for 120€.
I still dont understand why one has to put 450nm without the tool instead of the 350 with the special wrench. If the shipping doesnt take too much time, I might order it!

By the way, is there any precaution to observe when it comes to the replacement of the seals?

[ngoma]

Leverage. Using tool 5188 the torque wrench measures force at a longer distance from the bolt. To achieve desired torque at the fastener requires less force with a longer lever, same physics as your idea of using the sail mast as a cheater bar.

Which seals?

[dahicori]

thanks for explanation.

I have been told to change the two cam seals and the crank one too.