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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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Do you have the means to check static injection timing? That's the first step and only takes about 10 minutes (with tools). You can buy the stuff cheap on ebay, or borrow it from several members here who can loan tools, or likely some folks local to you in the PDX area. Better to know than to speculate. If you find it's not 100% spot-on, then you can reasonably assume the cam timing is not right either (typical indicators of belts having been done in the past without correct tools/techniques), and it would be a warning sign to check the torque on the crank pulley bolt as well. Getting those things right is critical to it operating and surviving as well as it should. It sounds like you have a healthy one so, worth the bit of effort to dial it in. Checking valve clearances should eventually be on the list too -- but I'd put timing first.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k Last edited by v8volvo; 11-25-2014 at 09:52 AM. |
#13
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Dial indicator, yes.
Cam wheel and crank tools have a line on genuine. Though would buy those and the funny scalloped out socket to remove the injectors. Do you need a lens grinding set or similar to lap the injector pieces super smooth? Like super fine sand paper on a flat granite measuring table or similar when shimming up the Monark nozzles for pop-off pressure? Parts available where for the cold start device? I remember seeing numbers and a source for those and the glow plug relay bits. Have a snap-on torque wrench good for ~280ft-lbs, so with the volvo extension dealie for the crank bolt it is probably enough? I know it's supposed to be 330 at the bolt. I forget what they say to torque it to if using the extension bar. Was always least painful to torque those with the car on a rack from underneath. I always used to borrow those or my boss had the set of them. It's a little loud and a little fast. Cold start disabled, timing needs to be verified. Smokes a lot at high(er) RPM under load. I'm hoping a fresh set of Monark's will cure that a fair bit. Parked until I put new floors in my new (to me) house. Borrowed the funny scallopy socket to remove the injectors to compression test it. Had a pretty even 500psi or whatever, minimal leak down, the core engine itself seems pretty healthy, no oil smoke or alarming oil consumption, good power, a little loud, alarmingly loud when the advance lever is pulled as though the cold start were pulling it into the "cold" position. Last edited by Fridgewagon; 12-13-2014 at 05:15 PM. |
#14
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Not sure I've seen this. Usually use a 1-1/16" socket. Torque to 52ft-lbs, careful to always pull (or push) the ratchet lever towards the head, to avoid breaking off the injector boss cast into the head.
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Your consistent 500PSI compression test results are optimum, really the main thing these engines need (compression, fuel, and air), should be a good runner once you get the details sorted out, regardless of the bad rep (sh***y turds!) these engines get on the other Volvo forums! Quote:
Most answers are scattered about this forum, sorry for the lack of a good index. Will require some dedicated searching time and a good internet connection. It is what it is.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t Last edited by ngoma; 11-27-2014 at 12:19 PM. |
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Ok, got out the dial indicator and double checked the crank pulley bolt was super tight. Timing is at euro spec, but not alarmingly off. Injection pump isn't timed per the book method judging by its position relative to the bracket (too close to the head if that makes sense...I think I've seen v8volvo mention that)
Let the heavy duty crane heat gun blow into the intake for several minutes (since I know I have at least two dead glow plugs after disconnecting the bus bar) and it lit right off in a snap. I didn't want to burn up my starter or wear the motor out on a nice 30 degree day. Swapped out the Fram fuel filter for a Bosch filled to the brim with fresh Lubro-moly diesel purge. That sure turned the volume down (general engine racket ) and made the test drive a lot snappier? Any other issues to be alarmed with there? Block doesn't look to be painted green, rebuilt? If rebuilt i sure hope they did a good job. It runs real nice and quick. Has fresh cooling hoses oe with American clamps and a bypassed engine harness, somi wouldn't be shocked if it's been out. Car is from Sacramento river valley ca so the car has zero rust, but the engine doesn't leak and the timing and cam cover has rut spots, not much evidence of blowby out the crankcase vent hose. Block is all greasy and nasty around the injection pump. Had a receipt for injection pump rebuild and reinstall for $2000 in the glovebox. Hot starts fine with no glow plugs with the coolant temp ~100f, but "warm engine", so probably a little easier warm start than just a hot summer day. Takes maybe just a little longer when slightly warm if you don't glow it manually (my only choice since my relay is stuck on at the moment, but his is a second car and mostly parked until dialed in) Adjusted the valves, nothing alarmingly out. Looked at timing belts and they look like fairly recent contis, but will change at 50k interval. Changed oil filter to Mann made in Germany from fram and very slightly overfilled (like barely above the cross-hatch on the stick, nothing radical) with Delo 40LE fully synthetic 5w-40. Old oil was fairly typical of a diesel IMO...still slippery, stinks like crayons, but a little sooty. Replaced air filter, flesh fluids and a bath in kerosene and the steam cleaner at the heavy equip hot wash. Had to turn the pressure and heat down to keep it "gentle". Changed the glow plugs with Bosch durathherms. Cleaned the treads. What a pita to change the #6. Got it out carefully and bled a little. Removed vac pump, slathered new glow threads in a dab of anti-seize and wiped with microfiber. Will need to start cold tomorrow to see if it starts right up cold with 6/6 instead of 3.5/6. Glow relay stuck on. How to repair or get it working right for a dual relay '83 265 diesel or buy new. Wiring diagram? Need an engine harness and some special tools. Want to rebuild the head and get a good look at it and give it a good refresh. Tbelt near interval What are the best brand water pumps? Would like a block heater. Would like to add the Volvo (gas engine) water to oil heat exchanger with D24T adapter. Would like to add head studs. Belts slip a little and starts to run a little warm even in winter towing up hill. Custom radiator? Add larger 700 clutched cooling fan with a good pusher fan with custom aground with larger opening? Headgasket possibly failing? Can you verify these with dye, leak down, coolant pressure test and smog (3-gas analyzer) on coolant reservoir like a normal gas engine? I think the reason the 2 series get the small fan is so the shroud/fan doesn't interfere with the auto trans cooling lines with the more slanted motor. Since mine is a stick that isn't really an issue. It looks like 2 and 7 top radiator hose are different and radiator is different maybe? I remember radiator being the same in years past. Last edited by Fridgewagon; 12-13-2014 at 05:20 PM. |
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Make sure you reinstalled the actuator rod back in the correct orientation. Backwards can cause excessive wear on the cam. Quote:
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Probably not affordable, check Dave Barton. They are not so complex; you could likely redo the deteriorated portions in a few hours. Most all available are the stamped steel impeller type. Not sure we have arrived at a "best" pick. Someone recently planned to send some used OE out for rebuild and testing. Easy but probably not necessary (West coast?) with good compression/battery/starter/GPs. Quote:
Checks presence of hydrocarbons, correct? Should work. Check for radiator hoses getting hard too early upon startup (cap tightened). Also check for small bubbles emerging into the coolant reservoir (cap off). The leaky headgaskets I have seen leak oil and coolant out onto the side of the block, just under/behind the vacuum pump.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#17
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From October to June I run without a cooling fan, and that is in some stop and go traffic and I have never got my engine hot, but I also know my cooling system is up to par.
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12mm pump heads, ARP stud kits and GTD nozzles available! http://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1646 NA intake manifolds and 240 turbo pans for sale. Need d24 or d24t parts? PM me! Shipments done on fridays! 1982 242 D24+T/M46- Super pumped! Build thread: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1545 1984 764 D24T/ZF build thread: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1734 Diesel parts cars: 82 244,83 244, 84 244, 84 245, 85 745 |
#18
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RE: Your question on water pump. I recently heard that if you order a WP for an Audi 5-cyl diesel you get one with the nice cast impeller, and with less 2 teeth on the cog pulley (so it spins a bit faster). I saw one. Looked to be high quality.
How's progress?
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#19
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New thinking is that worn/sloppy oil press relief valve is the main cause for oil drainback.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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