940 tic auto 1995

[jpliddy]

hi all as you see i still have my trusty 940 TIC D 24 on the road
just asking are there any bulletins on the lower front crankshaft oil seal replacement i have a bit of staining at front of sump below the pully ,
happy and healthy new year to you all
regards jim

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by jpliddy

hi all as you see i still have my trusty 940 TIC D 24 on the road
just asking are there any bulletins on the lower front crankshaft oil seal replacement i have a bit of staining at front of sump below the pully ,
happy and healthy new year to you all
regards jim

Usually almost every diesel engine is an ugly, stinky dark field of stains of all kinds!
Stains, fumes, splashes, drips, of oil, diesel fuel, coal, grease and other fluids and all their vapors, plus dirt, dust, water, coolant, rain, exhaust smoke etc.

I suggest you entirely clean the engine, top to bottom, keep it the cleanest it has ever been AND keep it that way for a few days, drive it, dont just idle the car, always dry everything off and watch 'stains or leaks' appearing and their source&routes, doing so before and after your daytrips. Again, keep it the cleanest it has ever been during your ownership. It will take a few hrs to unlock that achievement. Only then, you will be able to state that it might be the crank seal itself.


The valve cover is usually suspect #1 and "causes leaks" on its own, all around the entire engine, from top to bottom and more.


Those crankshaft seals usually do not leak and they are very sturdy, I have heard stories of people who replaced them then the car started having more of a leaky seal than ever before.


Check the studs that are under the valve cover all around the top edge of the cylinder head. Make sure those studs are all the way in, not loose (the ones that hold the valve cover nuts).
Check around the vaccuum pump and every little corner of the entire engine, including openings of the intake and all the places where two surfaces meet such as the egr area, the blow-off valve at the front, etc, even the tiny seal in the oil filler cap! Worth mentioning here the rubber ring/grommet that plugs the valve cover on top, under that oil trap mushroom in the very middle. It has to put up with tons of heat all the time, fumes, vibrations and actual fuel contamination or vapors coming from places such as filter area, IP or injectors etc.

Do you have blowby? Also check for the vent hoses and its clamps; but again, suspect #1 is gonna have to be the valve cover (-gasket). Are you using the 1-piece (Goetze) valve cover gasket or do you have the crappy cork-style 2-piece gasket?

If it is the 1-piece, you can still very gently torque down the valve cover nuts just a little tighter, following a logical safe tightening order starting from the middle and work your way towards the front and rear, gradually... and preferrably in two stages. Torque specs there, is about 10-14ft/lb or even less so be careful to not strip them rather make sure that none of them tighter than the other and that they are equally tightened and re-confirmed again in that same tightening order. I prefer doing it by the feel than trusting a torque wrench in case of the oily studs especially with such a low number torque-setting requirement.
Hopefully the source of the stain will be found and related to the valve cover gasket.



Stains, by the way, are not always oil, I am sure you know that. Look for any signs of any leak, all over. But unfortunately you can only do that best, if you achieve a full engine cleanup, a meticulous job as the result of an annoying, challenging, time-consuming procedure... but it is worth it. Take good pictures and ask others here on the forum about the leak/stain. A tiny stain should not make you believe that it needs a seal there, even a larger one usually is not from that seal.

Just clean the engine, you will be able to have your best chance to successfully detect every single one of the leaks!


Note: coolant hoses and other rubber parts do not love strong chemicals and abrasive acidic etc fluids, degreaser etc, they will deteriorate if you use a very aggressive product so start by a slight soapy wash, agitate everything by small brushes and work your way towards and into the areas with the worst stains, especially at the suspicious places.



A long message about cleaning but hey if you don`t have to do engine seals down there then you will thank me for typing so much, a few minutes of reading wont hurt anyone and your stain worries will go away in a heartbeat, by doing an easy fix only. Cleaning has other benefits and it is free, it is much less of a headache than going after a crank seal right away.

If you want to do the seal anyway (should not, unless it does leak Badly) then you could invest time and some bucks into the Volvo Greenbook manual that displays the d24 procedures and all of the details of the precise process, with torque specs,pictures,tools used,and a priority list of tasks, step-by-step.

[jpliddy]

thanks for the in-depth report , it helps a great deal , i will follow your suggestions they are very good . i have no leaks at the vacuum pump now as i swopped my febi brand for the genuine pierburg so its dry now , i have a fairly clean engine i do wipe the top area valve cover etc , i will go under car next week weather permitting and do as you suggest , a D24 friend had a look before this happened and thought he could see a tiny weep on the lower idler pully bolt inside the cam belt cover said he had a leak there as that bolt goes through into the engine ,he repaired /sealed his ok .have you come across this issue ?
thanks again V8 VOLVO

[jpliddy]

so sorry im confused ,
THANKS RED ARROW