D24 Won't Start after Replacing Injection Pump

[DieselScout]

I recently replaced my injection pump after having it rebuilt into my '82 244 D24.

After timing the pump to .84mm and priming the pump and fuel filter (new filter) with Diesel and Liqui Moli Diesel Purge, the engine started but would stall at around idle.

The engine would run around 1000rpm and above but it produced dense white smoke.

After a while of letting it run, I let off the accelerator and it stalled with a cracking sound from the engine bay. Upon inspection, I didn't see anything broken. I did however, notice that the starter was smoking and that I had a couple of melted red wires below the battery tray, leading to another item with a pulley/belt (unsure of what it is)

The engine has not started since. It cranks, but it feels as if no fuel is getting to the engine. I double checked my timing, replaced the Pump Solenoid and verified that it was receiving power.

The other month, prior to replacing the pump, the car was in fine shape and my mechanic said the compression, injectors and glow plugs were a-ok.

Thoughts?

[v8volvo]

Sounds like multiple different things going on at once that may be unrelated.

First, it sounds like the injection pump timing is off somehow. The cold start device was disengaged before timing the pump, right? If not that will result in actual timing that is much retarded from where you intended to set it.

Second, it sounds like a coincidental but separate failure may have happened with the starter, maybe a stuck solenoid or pinion gear, or a failed ignition switch, that caused the starter to remain engaged and energized for a long time while the engine was running. That would have burned up the starter, and also either the battery cable or alternator B+ wiring near the battery due to the extended high current draw from the starter motor and high charging current from the alt as it attempted to mitigate. It might be what caused the motor to stall also, if after a while the starter eventually drew the battery voltage down enough that there wasn't enough to keep the IP fuel cutoff solenoid open.

Did you hear a swishing or whirring sound while it did run, like the sound of the starter still being engaged in the flywheel? Was it willing to crank again right away after it stalled that last time, or did you have to recharge the battery first? Does it sound normal when cranking now and do the starter and ignition switch seem to be working normally? What happens to the voltage across the battery terminals when the starter is engaged now? And the voltage at the IP solenoid when cranking?

[DieselScout]

Yes, the cold start was disengaged for the timing.

My alternator is on the passenger side of the engine, I am not sure of the item directly below the battery (USA Model)

I don't remember hearing a sound like an engaged starter while it ran, but I can't rule it out either as I was probably distracted just trying to get the car to start and run properly.

I had to recharge the battery, but this was after many attempts at starting.

It sounds normal when cranking and the starter seems to be working with the ignition switch properly. It still smokes after trying to start for more than 30 seconds.

I'll try to take some voltage readings on my next attempt.

Also, the car was sitting for about a month with aluminum foil covering the injectors and fuel lines.

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by DieselScout

I did however, notice that the starter was smoking and that I had a couple of melted red wires below the battery tray, leading to another item with a pulley/belt (unsure of what it is)

an item with a pulley near the battery tray (??=ac compressor?)

[DieselScout]

That's what I'm thinking it might be, but I've never had working A/C in any Volvo so I've just never bothered about it, lol.

[DieselScout]

I read all the situations I could find on the forum, and the two outcomes which potentially make sense to me are, "air in the fuel system" and "timing 180 degrees off."

So in those scenarios....
What's the best way to bleed air form the fuel system?
How can I tell if my Timing is 180 degrees off?

[DieselScout]

Here's a video of the latest attempt: https://youtu.be/5_hqws4lTs4

[ngoma]

First you need to verify there are no dribbles of fuel from the ends of the injector hardlines. Sorry I don't have the time right now to type a detailed list of procedures that may not be needed.

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by DieselScout

?
How can I tell if my Timing is 180 degrees off?

-from opening up the valve cover and rechecking timing as you confirm tdc on cyl 1

-or removing the vaccuum pump, carefully, and looking at the position of the plunger (under pressure vs not under pressure)

I always prefer the valve cover story. my vaccuum pump gasket is too old but my VC gasket is reusable. (And checking the valves never hurts )

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by DieselScout

How can I tell if my Timing is 180 degrees off?

Crankshaft rotates 2x for each camshaft revolution, IP is connected 1:1 to camshaft so it is possible to time IP 180deg out relative to camshaft.

As RedArrow shared above, verify crankshaft at TDC, with camshaft #1 lobes pointing up & out, notch on IP cog pulley should roughly align w/ mark on IP triangular mounting flange.