I ran the d24t again for over a whole hour, still on ATF as fuel btw (ugh)
It runs really well, sounds good and it feels strong and stable
but time will tell. No hiccups today.
While and after running it that much, I measured the following temperatures:
On the
lower part of the
engine block it was consistently about 84C and mostly between 75-90 Celsius (at about the height of the pistons).
On the
sides of the cylinder
head I usually measured 71-75C, highest I can recall was 88 and it was on the manifold side, rear top. On the sides (at center height) of the cyl head i was measuring 72-75C `at` all six `cylinders` and little higher temps at the upper areas on the manifold side, about 78 or max 87-89C at the top, right below the bottom edges of the valve cover where it meets the cyl head.
According to this experiment, I can say that the head has usually ten Celsius degrees lower temps than the engine below.
But I can run it even longer and harder and check again.
(Two of my hose clamps needed a 180degree tightening bc they seeped a little.)
I measured the
upper hose temp too (well warmed engine, ran for long!), it was usually at 70-71C and 73C the highest, as checked multiple times. Good.
The
lower hose measured 39-40C right below the same measuring spot I chose for the upper hose... where the upper hose bends the 90degree (but on the lower hose).
Radiator driver side top front corner measured 56-59C at the inlet and gradually lower at every inch away towards the passenger side, esp downwards.
Blowby at the oil filler cap is close to nothing and at dipstick (pulled out) it is nearly nonexistent, at `hot` (=fully warmed) engine. Great.
The
turbo sounds amazing and spools so well and smoothly. I never had such a clean sounding turbo whistle on my other d24t.
There is very
minimal smoke despite ATF being used as fuel.
About other parts.
I removed and discarded the shot
ball joints. Removed the
brake shields and inspected the outer bearings (one side was bad and the castle nut appeared to be tighter too, IDK). I took apart the front strut assemblies and put away the diesel springs too. I was surprised the
strut tube top thread was not totally shot (I loosened it with a pipe wrench, zero issues) After taking out their insides, I reattached the cover nuts to preserve the threads and put the two bottom rings also back inside the tubes. The shocks/struts inside are made by Volvo, looking clean but are bad and no dampening. Labeled as B12684 66008. (is that Dec6th, 1984?)
The heavy td engine, the bad roads and the miles&time, totally killed them.
I cleared the
crossmember from the ends of the chopped off tie rods and removed the power steering rack hose, to store. I had to take out the huge bolts that secure it to the chassis but they had no heads!
They got torched off in PA.
This 85 XM has no cracks or maybe I should look
better when it gets cleaned up one day.
There`s surface rust around the engine mount pedestal`s base area but nothing major.
From the td
rear axle/diff I removed the rear brake parts and the shield, handbrake parts etc...
to be continued.
The
zf tranny bellhousing got stored away in a box and all bolts, screen etc carefully attached to it in a ziplock bag, the remaining parts of the zf also getting stored away for now. Linkages removed and piping also put away already. I removed the ATF too and duct taped the openings. Fluid looked not too clean and wasn`t super liquid anymore as atf would normally be.
The strut housings had perfect looking labels under the layers of undercoating. I took a pict if somebody cares. IDK what the numbers are for.
I haven`t found yet a label on the rear diff/axle but I`d like to know what it actually is.
According to v8volvo, the zf cars had the 3.91, I think that`s what he said in his reply.
Keeping less stuff from this donor would give me extra space. Parts that are NOT td specific, should immediately go.
QUESTION:
IF, I ever end up doing a swap: gasser car modded to become a td car; will I run into problems because the diesel/turbodiesel shafts are different?
OR, the td shaft will bolt into the gasser`s rear end without the annoying mismatch problems?? I wonder about length, size, diameters etc.
All info is very welcome,
maybe and hopefully I dont have to store this rear end and the gasser will provide me with everything I need for the swap and maybe the gasser shaft will be used without a problem? Also the gasser rear end?
Do i need to keep at least the TD car`s shaft parts? The parts that were between the tranny and the rear diff of this td sedan donor car.
Or will my td shaft be not needed at all?
If the TD engine and td ZF tranny combo CAN be used
straight into a future gasser wagon WITH reusing the future gasser wagon`s shaft AND rear end, then I`m very happy. And will not need to keep this td sedan donor rear end. maybe not even the donor TD shaft?
This info would be real nice to have and my garage will really appreciate some extra space.
Thanks!