Seth, if you have not yet found the tool needed to check the torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt, jetfiremuck's method above would be a cheap way to own it permanently. (You can also borrow for free as mentioned)
Just remember that all of us here are saying the same thing. You won't see alternate opinions elsewhere either. The only way do this work is with the right equipment. Like with anything requiring any specific tool, common or not: it's a piece of cake with it, impossible without. You wouldn't try to use a crowbar to replace your kitchen sink faucet, it's the wrong tool, wouldn't work, and would probably damage something or hurt somebody in the end. This is the same deal. Maybe your mechanic will be the first person ever in the 45 years these engines have been on the road worldwide to find an alternate method that works -- but it is not likely. MANY have thought this before and been very unhappy to learn otherwise. And why even do the effort of trying to fudge it, when it's far easier to do it right?
Keep in mind too: there are only two possible outcomes from getting hold of the tool and using it to check the torque. Both are positive.
1) You find that the bolt was not tight enough, and by tightening it fully using the right method before it fails and causes damage, you save yourself (and your mechanic) a huge amount of time and cost and inconvenience.
Or -
2) You find miraculously that the bolt was already tight enough. But now that you KNOW for certain, you can use the rig with confidence, rather than always wondering if/when/WHERE it will let go. This is a vehicle you plan to take to remote places that require 6x6 traction, right? How fun will it be to worry that you might brick the engine at any moment when you're out there? If this bolt loosens up and grenades the cylinder head, it's not like a burst hose that you can patch up. No MacGyver field repair is going to get it running to drive out. You will need to somehow get a tow truck to wherever it happened -- and a big one, too.
In either of these cases, what's the possible downside of checking? The 30min it takes and the $35 for the tool? After all the time and $ that's already in it? Why would it be worth the risk, at such a low cost?
Of course you want to trust your mechanic and not hurt your relationship by questioning his assurances. That makes sense. But remember that he thought he had the cam bolt tight enough, too. That one didn't cause damage, this one will, and so will the front cam bolt, for that matter. If you really want to help him out, best is to provide him the equipment and info to succeed.
OK. That's the last word of warning, at least from me. Hopefully this discussion and the many good posts from multiple folks in it is useful, not just now but for whoever may find it later. Needless to say, it's your rig, and your call. Just don't say we didn't try.
Let us know how it goes, and we look forward to seeing some pictures of it someday as well, Pinzgauers are always interesting and each one seems to be unique.
