[Bob]

regretfully after further work conducted to the engine i still have not managed to prevent the cambelt walk. the work completed or parts tried and installed would include the following
1. 1x Quinten hazel tensioner 1x febi tensioner ( febi one had significantly less preload on the belt tension).
2. febi idler pulley
3. FAI water pump
4. new crank and cam drive sprockets
5. gates belts
6. oil pump idler mounting machined and sleeved with a steel insert.
The reason i replaced the drive gears was because i noticed they were visibly worn at the back from where the belt had been previously riding and i figured that the combination of both top and bottom worn gears could encourage the belt to ride back however the new gears did not solve my issue.
the oil pump was machined by a friend of mine as the hole was not central when the idler was inserted for some reason. so he bored it out square and machined a steel insert for the idler to ride in to keep the original measurements the same. this was a good time to change the sump gasket. (what a game) not something i enjoyed in the driveway in the rain.however that didn't solve my issue.
i am beginning to come to the end of my tether with this fault as no matter what i try and ultimately spend does not fix my issue despite my best intentions.
so, i was thinking i noticed that the older waterpumps have two flanges either side of the gear. this would help the belt to stay on course in the event of the belt walking i thought and i was wondering if anyone knows if i could fit an older flanged gear onto my pump to limit the belts movements. i would buy one second hand if possible from a forum member.
also when i removed the rear cam cap to time the cam i noticed there was significant float probably a few mm but once the rear cap is installed it seems to locate the cam in a fixed position.

that's the situation for anyone following, open to ideas from anyone who has had a similar issue.

ta