Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma
I think you should paint them the same color as the IP.
...
As for the broken stud removal, WD40 is nowhere near the top choice... Color suggestion accepted 
Reverse drill bits-- try a Fastenal or Tacoma Screw near you. |
It was very hard to find even some wd40, these days places like A.zone are `attacked`, esp in the weekends.
(Brake cleaner is what TP was a few months ago!)
Thank you for the note, I`ll get some Kroil next time then.
About the Tacoma Screw: I really like their website, simple and organized.
Progress on the d24t:
The
starter made its way on the engine today.
I had to make some fresh wirings, new connectors for the Bosch one (it is different than the Remy I was using earlier).
I cleaned up the thick battery cables and routed them very well and out of the way.
The
EGR piping had to be used bc I did not have blockoff plates ready and also had no gaskets for them. I used copper high heat gasketmaker but I`ll order 2 sets of good looking blockoff plates.
Actually it would be nice to have the
intake downpipe from a non-egr TD car (anyone has that avail, used?). I even have multiple new orings for that kind (in Volvo paper bags, labeled d24t - nice)
I had to dremel away lots of surface rust and I did my best to even out the burnt&pitted surface on the exhaust manifold joint.
So the EGR pipe got installed. First, I had to install a new stud into the manifold and then chop the end off (no space for more than a nut, behind the installed pipe =
idiotic design really* = because there IS enough space in the area, they could have curved that mushroom pipe better)
I used high heat brake grease in the exhaust manifold holes and on threads.
Next, to install the pipe that runs into the front of the turbo (dont forget o-ring, large pin)
and I had to get the
breather hoses cleaned up.
They were ordered from Volvo and still had a sticker on them including the part number. But someone wanted to protect the longer one from heat AND chafing; they installed some heatproofing foam onto it, using glue, and some alu foil on top of it all. It was a pain to remove.
Cleaning the
clamps and setting up all hoses so none of them is stressed.
Cleaning up the
valve in the front of the intake, checking the
oring in there, too (checked out).
Ziptie-ing the routed battery cables and tightening all clamp screws everywhere on the engine.
For the injection pump, I made new
IN and OUT fuel hoses and routed them both into a bottle that has a vent too, just in case.
Connected the inline low pressure fuel pusher and brought in the big battery from my d24 car.
Made a
new wire to energize the IP
and checked around the entire engine for loose bolts, leaks, whatever it may be.
Attached the long exhaust
downpipe and filled the fuel bottle with new ATF for
fuel (lubricating and cleaning the pump from dirt, if any (but it makes the engine smoke a little more and smell worse than it would normally smell).
Prepared a longnose to manually do glowplugs, a knife, and the good old 2x4 wood chunk (to block off the air and choke the motor in case of a runaway).
The motor was ready again to get started,
it was a long process to go through all of the exterior, etc.
It was definitely worth it, to me, it was an awesome experience and very motivating.
I`d do it again and again but it is high time now to take a break for a few days and maybe deal with something else (such as building a cooling system for it???
).