Hi,
I don`t see any bubbles in the clear line between the fuel filter and IP. Not in the morning, not at idle and not at slow or high rpms.
Although it could maybe be possible for the system to introduce air somewhere under the clamp where the hose reaches the IP. IDK. I`ll check that just in case.
Also I could use a similarly clear line for the return side and inspect. That may be a good idea, I think.. not sure.
I personally don`t think it is air-related. How annoying that it seems like a clogged filter limiting but it isnt. Last time it helped but did not solve my issue fully.
But I also had an air bleeder bolt there with stripped threads. Since then I swapped on another housing from another d24.
I used to drive a 240 diesel car for years where you`d see air in fuel hose every morning. It got air in at multiple spots and took time to find them all. Car was used for fishing&hunting most of which on really bad, sometimes rocky unpaved forest roads or literally through fields... used as a sleigh
That car always found the way to get air in the fuel system
so I know how it sounds and feels when a sudden oversize bubble makes it in.
same for the brakes
I had a chance to experiment on my engine stand d24t too when the clear hose bet filter and ip was not attached correctly, also it was split at some point but not seen (underneath area). It hardened and the clamp cut into it but it only got air in at certain RPMS, weird.
IDK what other names the
`fuel adjuster` has but isnt it called smoke screw too? idk.
Basically it is the first thing dieselers touch when they bought the car.
)))
circled in green, pict #5
Just so you all know, the ip has recently been flushed using atf from a jar and left sitting... and should be relatively clear inside.
Here`s a fresh
video, taken with a fully warmed up engine, to illustrate the RPMs and the range I`m talking about. Notice how it stops in both directions at about 3000rpm. Doesnt stop but sticks, kind of.
I suggest watching the video SLOWED DOWN. Youtube has that option. Set it to 0.25 or 0.5 speed to see it best.
Look at this video and lmk, can this be caused by injectors? Nozzle failure or whatever? I doubt, but what do you guys think? Worst case scenario i`ll just get the pump off and install the other one but I don`t feel like messing with it.
It might be the case that I have to for many reasons :0)
A few days ago one of the fuel hard lines, cyl#4, started leaking drops of fuel and it stinks. Not much but at least I know why. The end at the IP side got too tight or it simply aged. I think the end deformed just a tiny bit, maybe. Is there a way to touch those up and fix it?
Sorry one more thing, two of the threaded parts where these hard lines screw `up` on the ip, were loose yest. I removed the entire fuel line assembly and took a look. I took care and was aware of the rubber vibration dampeners etc.
Havent seen damage... The 2000 grit sandpaper helped the end of the leaky line but it didnt fully cure it. Can I fix it better? maybe modify it back to more of a cone shape at the tip? then it flattens anyway when you tighten it. I know it is a very sensitively small torque.
I grabbed a nonturbo assembly and used the cyl #4 part of it and will swap that one piece into my turbodiesel assembly.
I think that even if those two were loose it would not affect my ip bc it is not the side where air would go inbound. Anyways. Looks like I`m around the Ip this time.
Today it gets the pipe from the nonturbo in then I`ll see if it leaks or not. The IP side nipple looked intact (the part that is part of the pump).
also this:
The front head of the IP always seemed to look `wet` by fuel so Im sure there was always something going on there. It is high time to reseal this entire IP btw.
I think it leaks near the wax arm too, on the side, and although i have a full reseal kit idk yet if I should touch such a million-piece item (=INJ PUMP)
It prob leaks at the rear seal too or idk... although in that case the air-rpm limit would be explained at least, right?
I dont think it is my fuel shutoff valve that wets the front head but I could look at that too. I just hate messing with Ip in-car. backbreaking exercise to reach in
here`s that rpm video. slow the playback down to 0.25 speed or 0.5
https://youtu.be/TwqBGBq7tlM
Thank you for the earlier responses too! I`ll follow v8`s advice on the order of diagnosys/fix.
I attached a picture and circled in purple the nipple where the hard line developed a leak. Can these be touched up? Shall I swap in another nipple from another pump? Or is it always the hard line itself that creates the `leak`? I guess so.
Also , what is the hole for? two, circled in yellow. THX