Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevadan
That is an excellent looking engine, very fine work. And based on the way it ran before the cleanup and re-seal, and after, it looks like you got a great engine. It's well worth the effort to have a spare available even if you don't find another vehicle to put it in. And it is very rewarding to see things working correctly when finished
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Thank you! I agree, it feels awesome to finally have a proper, year-match, clean, good running spare. Also, it was really fun to complete the mission of the
"quick" `refurb`.
Today,
Step 1:
I swapped the
wrong, 150kPa coolant
reservoir cap to the
correct 75kPa cap. Also the 150 kPa cap has a damaged valve/valves inside (I think). They looked sunk and were in a tilted position, also loose. If I squeezed one of the thickest hoses, the upper or lower radiator hoses, the coolant level would run up (that`s okay), reach the very top and straight start leaking out despite a tightened cap (that`s not okay)... I could do that (and did) even when engine is dead cold without any pressure&temperature build-up. So I consider that cap toast. It would be very bad to run an otherwise good engine in a car (especially under load) with that bad cap!
Luckily I spotted this while staring at the engine. The
other weird thing is that the 150kPa version was also
black. How?
The 75kPa cap should be the
black one and the 150 kPa should be
green in color. IDK, i don`t care anymore... but
watch out for these! Could possibly ruin an otherwise reliable engine?? Blow or rupture a hose under load?
Step 2:
I managed to find the storage bin where my
Made In Canada d24t
blockheaters were. This is a very nice plug-in option to get/or keep your coolant warm(-er) and have the car ready in cold weather for a safer coldstart with less engine wear. Good thought from the engineers and it works well! Located on the manifold side of the engine.
Maybe it was not optional but rather basic accessory for the North American and Canadian markets? IDK...
It is 1250Watts so I wouldn`t let it run all night. Not just for safety reasons but also because this thing would spin your electricity meter quite a lot (imagine if used all through a Winter). I wonder whether or not it has a built-in safety shutoff.
Anyways. Facts. Today it was about 80-85F ambient temp here. Engine was `cold` with a full day of sitting. Digital thermometer-gun showed 83-85F on various engine spots (about 28-29C ?).
I plugged it in for 10 minutes and saw 95-97F (35C) at several spots then. After 20minutes I unplugged the heater. Engine areas at height level of pistons (measured on the manifolds` side)
esp the head measured 106-110-111F (41-42C) and at some spots 116-117F (46-47C) at cyl head area above the heater. Right around the heater it was even warmer.
These results would be
slower in very cold weather but if the heater gave circa 15C increase in temperatures in only 20mins then it`s great. That equals with, for example, -20C to about -5C. Huge difference in how differently most of the older diesels react to those two temps. It`s smart stuff.
Correction/update: the US-specific power cable says 1250Watts on its label (to not exceed) but the actual heater is stamped
400W, 115Volts.
A thought: one could literally install a 2nd one into another available "freezeplug" and this way the "team-working" heaterS would be even more efficient in increasing the coolant temperature. With the doubled up wattage you could run them for only half the time and still have the same results!