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Originally Posted by Kaptin
I've done a couple on my D5252T (2.5 TDI 5 cylinder V70), but never on the D24. No special tools, all done manually,
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Be careful with that way of thinking. Are you familiar with how tight the torque on the front crankshaft bolt needs to be (much like on the D5252T which is highly similar) and what happens if the bolt is installed at insufficient or excessive torque? It is not something you want to be uncertain of. No tool other than the factory setup or an exactly similar homemade copy can get it torqued right. An impact gun, even a massive one, cannot necessarily do it because the crank is not held perfectly still thus the force of the impact is absorbed by movement in the crank. You may *think* it is tight enough -- many have! -- but it might not be. Similarly if you somehow manage to overdo it and make it too tight, that can lead to the same kind of disaster if it pulls threads or stretches/breaks the bolt. You cannot use the transmission to hold the torque on a standard trans car because the clutch can't hold 340 ft-lb and will slip, and if you try to use a lever against the flywheel ring gear, it'll break off the teeth. That is the kind of force we are dealing with on this bolt.
This is just simply a part of the engine that you really don't want to roll the dice with. It's no great challenge to get it right, but a world of pain if you don't. Read others' experiences with the sad consequences of anything short of perfection in terms of the installation of this fastener before you decide you feel lucky.
Same goes for the cam and IP timing. You can hope you got lucky but you will never know for sure and in the meantime damage could occur. And what is the benefit of the gamble? Doing these things the right way with the right equipment is easy and satisfying, you would probably enjoy the peace of mind knowing it's right!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaptin
admittedly IP was not properly timed, as whilst I had access to a dial gauge, I did not have access to an adaptor. Timing was set on the advanced end of the scale as I will be pulling power from the engine.
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A little confused here -- how do you know the timing is on the advanced end of the scale if you did not have the timing tools to know what the timing setting actually is?
How do you know it is not overly advanced? Too much advance leads to extreme peak cylinder pressures and internal stresses on the engine and can get you into deep trouble quickly. Headgasket, pistons, rings, connecting rods, bearings, etc can all suffer avoidable damage. All the more so if you are aiming for increased power.
Beware that if you are assuming that the timing is set advanced based on observed positions of the crude visual marks on the IP and its bracket, those in fact tell you nothing on this particular engine design. This is because the rear cam gear is not keyed to the cam and can be installed in any position (this is intentional -- how the timing process is accomplished when done correctly). Thus it could "look" like the timing is set advanced based on the relationship of pump to bracket, yet have the actual timing be far retarded, OR vice-versa. So if your timing guesses are based on that, then watch out, you might be making a false assumption. The only way to have know is using the dial indicator and rod/holder set. Those tool sets are ubiquitous on UK ebay for 50 GBP or less. Not expensive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaptin
Yep, I found it, it appears to just be stuck, there isn't corrosion but there is 275k of grime. I'll try penetrating oils and a little smack, I just definitely don't want to risk damaging the threads. Tried adapting the sandwich plate which touches the screw, which worked but didn't give that much movement. For now I turned the fuel back down, and have a 600rpm idle, which sounds so great!
Double nut does sound like the best way, there are definitely enough threads for it, however I can see getting spanners on being a challenge...if I'm able to get them to line up just right, I think a deep 10 may be able to go over both and move it. I shall give them all a try, thank you!
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Sometimes can be helpful to remove the tripod stand that holds the throttle spool assembly to the top of the IP for easier access to the adjustment screws. Then you can do all the setup of idle speeds using those screws, with the throttle spool assy removed from influencing the engine speed, and last of all reinstall it and get it dialed in where it needs to be once you know the pump base settings are as you wish.