View Single Post
  #3  
Old 06-20-2020, 09:02 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: New York
Vehicle: 1986 Volvo 745 TD
Posts: 902
Default 2

Do you have the d24 engine reconditioning Greenbook book/owners manual? Highly suggested.

About you believing or not THEIR pump repair story:
Well, solving injection pump trouble on a test- bench is definitely harder than setting timing in-car so probably they did both.
What did they do? Did they reseal the entire pump then same people installed it on your car?


About smoke again.
A lot of smoke all times, as you said...IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.
Weak car, old car, diesel, yes yes yes, but that kind of smoking is not allowed. Your engine is misadjusted or you have bad injectors or they arent perfect. Gotta check timing at the rear belt (fuel timing)


Valve adjustment.
You MUST, again, MUST
check and adjust the valves. Must
And it takes less than an hour even for the beginner vw dieseler.
Please do adjust the valve ASAP. You need to have a chart for yourself to be able to write down values and make a plan on how to swap or switch the shims.
It is super easy you can pm me or whatever I will explain or you read the Greenbook. Valve adj is an absolute must and it is suggested at every 12k but definitely must at every 20-30k because as they wear the gaps get tighter and that is NOT good for you r internals. The intake valve gap must be tigggghhhhht by now. God, when was it even done last time?
It isnt causing your issue btw but please adjust the valves.

There is no damn lifters in the d24 early 200 nonturbo engines so whoever said that to you please turn away and run and never go back to them for any*advice on your d24. Nonturbo d24 needs to have valves adjusted, period!
The later 700 and 900 models do have hydr lifters but that`s your next d24 car not this one Euro TIC motors are REALLY nice and they dont have the stupid waterpump timingbelt tensioner system LOL.

also
to express something equally important as the regular tb service:

it is important to have zero overheat stories whatsoever.
these engine usually died due to overheating because of either misadjusted or neglected or misunderstood.
If you experience the slightest overheating, you gotta stop driving the car. Not for a break but for until you redo the entire cooling system and have it safe again. No overheating is `allowed` in these or you may pay the highest price, the life of your rare survivor car.
If overheat happens, catastrophicv engine damage is almost inevitable so please do your thing and check for leak before and after trips and perhaps at every time you use the car. why not?

No coolant leaks are accepted and if you lose coolant, it takes not much time for the head to warp beyond specs then what?
Big job and too much money too.

Overheating you kept having earlier, could you describe what it was and how when it was happening?
Overheating kills these engines but it is so easy to avoid if the system is kept neatly in order. Hoses, radiator, proper 80 or 87C thermostat, etc.


I should have said in the beginning of this long answer:

you must check your timing and start there.

Add a new fuel filter now too.

About the CS device, no worries.*

and go from there,

stay in touch here and document your troubles so we can see how you and the car are doing.

There must be dieselers around you,

try to meet up and sort things out there too.

Best of luck and dont*give up, soon your car running great again.*

Last edited by RedArrow; 06-21-2020 at 09:50 AM.
Reply With Quote