Not much was achieved today in terms of `dieseling`...
Some wood cutting, drilling holes to create a nice and stable
battery tray on the engine stand. Then, building up the cooling system and finalizing it so *soon* I`ll be able to safely run the engine for longer than a minute.
I found the children bunkbed ladder
perfect for the application to mount the large radiator on the engine stand. It already had the perfect bend,
exactly what I wanted to build somehow. It was also the perfect height and width, even had the holes already at the bottom where all I had to do is drill into the stand and use two bolts to secure the thing to it.
Then, the top `tilt` is fixed and stabilized by a stylish solution: a repurposed oem VOLVO alternator belt off the donor car, also the two rusty trusty hooks from the donor car`s battery tray (were holding down the battery by a rubber strap). I simply put them thru a drilled radiator hole and hooked them into the top of the `ladder`. Works like a charm, there was some alignment to do; including the magic of zipties supporting the elephant tusk d24 lower coolant hose.
I added the expansion
reservoir with the proper black diesel-cap and tightened all cooling system clamps, all over the entire engine. Must have been some thirty clamps to check (?)!
I found and filled in 1.5gallon of
Zerex G05 coolant which is perfect but it isnt the premixed version so tomorrow I`ll have a walk to Rite@id for 2G of distilled water.
Then my cooling system will be topped up, kept under a strict checkup, air bled.
After everything set up, I`ll reconnect the (I think functioning)
coldstart device and watch what happens.
The coolant thermostat looks new but they usually do. So I wont trust it. I actually need to remove it... bring it home and put some oil on the stove, start heating it and
test the thermostat in it using a digital thermometer. The temperature fluctuates more if water is used so this time it will be oil. The thermostat should open somewhere between 80-87Celsius. It is a good quality Wahler 87 C part, but I think I should test it!
Only then continue to fill up the coolant system and complete the air bleeding process, recheck clamps and watch for leaks (if any).
I need to reconnect the fuel filter and feed fuel through there, also make a nicer fuel `tank` and secure it better than a swinging seltzer bottle.
The pictures will show the two dirtiest parts on this engine. One is the fan clutch (at least I removed and cleaned the rotor), the other oily dirtbox is that P.S. system (ps also stands for power steering,
) ).
I had to add `that ps`
on the engine bc on this d24t the same long belt runs on the fan, the ps and the crank pulley.
On my d24t it isnt the case I think. Anyway, so I added it for now but I need to renew the ps, I know. It looks worse than the rest of this d24t. :`))
The Nissens radiator does not have a single fin bent at the front. I like it!
P.S. (another one
)
The duct tape on the downpipe is covering holes (!), indicates what kind of rust this poor donor 744 had.