Quote:
Originally Posted by jpliddy
i take it that nut and cold start was removed
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the garage did say on a car that age and mileage that other leaks may occur
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he did say there are 2 seals on the cold start fitting 1 outer and 1 inner into the pump take it thats correct
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Not necessarily were they removed if the work that was previously done only involved the throttle shaft seal, that's a different area of the pump and the cold start lever/shaft probably would not have been touched.
More likely this latest leak is a coincidence, just caused by age and time same as the first leak, and maybe also by winter weather. Cold temps always make leaks like this worse since the old rubber is harder and more brittle. Wintertime is common season to see new leaks appear, sometimes many all at once, as seems to be happening for your pump.
As a matter of fact my 760 sedan also just sprung an injection pump leak a couple weeks ago during a stretch of cold weather.
Hence, the garage is right to tell you that other leaks may soon occur, as we have also mentioned here.
Correct in your last comment that there are two seals for the cold start area, one is a shaft seal similar to the throttle shaft seal, and the other is an O-ring sandwiched between the shaft housing cover plate and the main pump body. Both can leak and should be replaced if you have that area apart, although from your description the main leaker you have now is the smaller shaft seal. It *can* be done with the pump on the car, like the previous leak repair was, but....
As was noted earlier in the thread by a couple of us, at this point your best bet may be to get the pump pulled off the engine and completely resealed and recalibrated by a professional fuel injection service shop. You CAN continue to fix the leaks one at a time as they arise here and there, but doing it that way will be annoying and probably more costly, since you will continually be having to bring the car back for each new leak. Plus, there are also some seals on the pump that cannot be easily/safely accessed for replacement without removing the pump from engine, such as the one on the opposite side of the pump from the cold start area, the drive shaft seal, and the main head seal which can be the biggest leaker of all. And eventually those will give up too, since all the seals are the same age and obviously reaching end of their life. So you'll have to remove the pump from engine someday anyway. Best option probably to bite the bullet and have it all done in one shot, then you don't have to keep watching for and dealing with a continuing series of new leaks. And risking your heater hoses in the process.
