The pump side of the engine:
For the removal of the injection pump and its brackets,
I had to gently torch the two large bolts that are hidden behing the inj pump, there was no other way because they felt totally stuck and corroded.
I made sure to keep all heat away from the pump and the nearly inaccessible bolts finally gave in and loosened.
Then I found my Volvo tool for the removal of the injection pump sprocket rear gearing and it worked like a charm. No, I didnt lose the woodruff key.
`Almost doesnt count`.
these are the colors I used after the 2+1 coats of primer dried:
Throttle linkage - glossy black
Inj pump large
bracket and small bracket part- glossy black higher heat tolerance enamel
Inj pump
sprocket- semi gloss (satin) black enamel
INJECTION PUMP - green color that is called Satin OLIVE made by Rustoleum.
It is a very nice color in my opinion and I was happy to randomly find such color on my shelf.
((I recall using it on the Husquarna 450 dirtbike and it looked really great bc we did camouflage and this was part of the color-combo setup.))
So, the injection pump is now `matchy-matchy` with the rest of the block
which is Farm Equipment green, almost like the color of a John Deere tractor. These two greens go well and the black brackets will normalize the look into something good because the valve cover is also black now. I also wanted the exh manifold black but couldnt find high heat black on my shelf. And since the silver high heat coat has been baked already, I may just leave it silver now.
d24s are tractors afterall, arent they?
After a few layers of the olive, the pump assembly received 3 coats of high heat tolerance
clear enamel to make it stand up better to the heat and possible leaks in the area. If any...
About pump fuel leaks.
I have the full reseal kit for the injection pump but I decided to not do anything to it, at all, because this pump appears to be rebuilt by a reputable diesel shop and I havent noticed any leaks when I ran the engine on the stand, also there was no evidence of pump leaks visible anywhere.
So that`s good news.
I also have the
12mm pump
head that I bought from one of the professional dieselbrickers via this forum but I decided to not mess with this pump unless necessary later.
Even the cold start device works on this pump and car still had the intact egr setup as well.
So the pump hasnt been opened up
because I didnt want to complicate things and end up with another to-do project. For the time of spraying, all openings had been tightly sealed, used alu foil plus plugs, blue tape and other ways to plug holes such as the unused egr holes, threads, rubber boot, and to save the rebuild info I stickered up their label and also taped off the Bosch manufactuer pump info tab. The only hose that got overspray is the one I want to replace anyway (return side).
Maybe if I had more time and only the pump to deal with, I`d attempt to reseal it if it was necessary but it isnt.
I have enough stuff to do already, it`s been over a week on this engine, many hours every day.
The paint will cure for several days from now on, but soon there will be an engine assembly with the fresher looking AND NOW CLEAN parts.
Everything in the garage is filthy dirty from this d24t alone and let me tell ya this engine wasnt even as dirty as most of them are.
Donor car didnt even have active leaks for example (except valve cover that generously oiled everything below.