Please excuse if I am misunderstanding your efforts, but from my viewpoint it sure looks like you are trying to apply common timetested mechaniking methods to time your IP. You appear to be a crack mechanic with many successful exploits under you belt (implementing best practices, etc.) but as you have cleverly realized, certain quirks of the D24 require require nonintuitive methods, seemingly contrary to mechanic best practices.
Yes the D24 with its German (over?)engineering heritage is a different beast.
The easiest method for timing the IP will appear to be counterintuitive to you and there will be multiple reasons to do workarounds and ignore the counterintuitive aspects, in order to conform to "mechaniking best practices" that have served well in the past.
Here are an example:
Mechanic common practice: Lock the IP pulley and rotate the IP to time it.
D24 easy method: Leave the IP where it is and rotate the (loosened) rear camshaft sprocket.
Have you seen this sticky?
https://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimarilo
Have put my own TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley...
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Not sure what utility this has but doubt it will be as precise as using the factory mark on the flywheel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimarilo
If I am going things correctly, it seems to me the belt could be a whole tooth out as I am running out of adjustment at the pump.
So either need to slip the belt off the cam pulley, which I have seen done and gain another tooth or crack the cam pulley nut and do it properly, which would require adapting some tools
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Yes get your hands on a sprocket tool (widely available, not expensive, there were some fairly recent links to sources, especially in your neck of the woods), so easy to manipulate it in one hand and tighten the nut with the other, then hand-crank the engine another revolution to TDC, read the dial gauge, see how close you got to your desired setting, repeat as necessary. TIP: possibly because of slack or slop in the system if you overshoot slightly (ex. aim for .95 you will probably end up near .90) it will result close to your desired setting.
I admit it was hard for me to understand the method at first but now can check/reset the timing in maybe an hour start to finish?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimarilo
The cold start lever seems to be very tight and is difficult to put the spacer back in place, as there is no slack. Will have another go tomorrow and put the IP back to where it was
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The cold start lever can be near impossible to move unless the IP internals are rotating. (Seems like I wrote about this recently, maybe it wasn't you?)
Many of us have the IP case rotated outward from the marks, as a way to make R/R of the #5 and 6 GPs possible without removing the IP.
So my overall council for you is to overcome your (understandable)(you appear to be a competent mechanic) urge to do things the "old" way (which may have worked well many times before) and try this new method that seems like hokum but when you understand it, appears to be quite elegant in a way.