[jbg]

IceV_760, as usual, thank you for the post! You spend a lot of time and effort on the board, and your knowledge is a great benefit to all readers.

Originally Posted by IceV_760

Okay.. Long story short (shortcutting the IP timing)

Second. Sorry my really worst english, i dont know many mechanical terms
on english, so i had to improve my own words,
but im sure you will figure out what i mean when you think it.
Those words should all be placed between "xxxx" marks.

Ok, I'll do my best to help with the translation.

Originally Posted by IceV_760

Distributor belt change: You add "nose-axle" so at
both beaks on cylinder nr.1 points up, so at ventils are free.
Then you search the "zero-mark" from flywheel on back of the engine,
add belt and thats it. You can use 3mm thick piece of something straight,
in back of the "nose-axle" to verify at your "nose-axle" is on position.
There your piece of something will point to west and east, so its crosswise.

Most special tools can be viewed here: http://www.k-jet.org/articles/inform...d-questions/#8

Taylor, the general idea here is that there are two systems to time; 1) the camshaft to the crankshaft, and 2) the injection pump to the engine.

With the valve cover removed, rotate the engine clockwise until number 1 cylinder camshaft lobes ("nose-axle breaks") are pointing up. As IceV_760 notes this will ensure the valves ("ventils") are free. On the back of the camshaft is a machined relief that you insert special tool #5190 - or something similar ("3mm thick piece of something straight") - into, and a 0,2mm feeler gauge. To expose this relief you need to remove the rear camshaft timing gear. Once these steps are completed the camshaft is set.

Special tool #5190: http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2...5/200/tool.jpg.

As IceV_760 notes you set the crankshaft by rotating the crank (27mm or 1 1/16" socket on crank bolt) until the zero degree mark is shown on the flywheel. Once this step is completed the crankshaft is set. With cylinder 1 at TDC, add the front timing belt.

Originally Posted by IceV_760

Then IP timing. Thats interesting. Basically, when you check from greenbooks, you first comments would probably be " what a fuck that takes ages and is hard to do", and thats why we do it easy way, taking hmm.. 10min.

I could not have said this better myself. When you read the procedure its tougher than it really is.

Originally Posted by IceV_760

There, be extremely precise at band wheel from IP
dont spin, since it does it REALLY easy when you remove the old
IP's belt. If that happens, there is line stanssed in IP's band wheel,
which must be in line with body of pump, at 90* angle,
if we imagine at zero-point points up

IceV_760 is right to put the above text in bold. Any movement of the injection pump gear ("band wheel") moves the pump timing. Just the slightest bump can really whack things out. If is does get whacked out, the injection pump gear has a small notch cut ("stanssed") in it. Line this up with the scribe mark on the injection pump. For a visual see section C3 of http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2...25/1600/p2.jpg.

Originally Posted by IceV_760

You disable the effect from cold-start device by turning that square so at it frees wire which comes from "cold-start patron", so at it dont affect to timing.

Right, the CSD must be disabled. See this scan from the green book to give you a visual on the cold start device. "Cold-start patron" is the cold start device (CSD), or a wax-filled thermostat. See section C2 of http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2...25/1600/p2.jpg.

Originally Posted by IceV_760

Now you open the screw in front of the bump, the one where you will
set the timing, by using either "cast-clock" or "push-gauge",
and put your "measuring device" in head of the piston there.

Ok, what IceV_760 is saying here is to remove the center bolt on the injection pump's head, and insert a dial indicator ("cast-clock" or "push-gauge"), set the gauge to 2,0mm pre-load. This is illustrated in section C4 of http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2...25/1600/p2.jpg.

Now this is a very important. There are two schools of thought on how to actually set the injection pump timing. The Volvo green book refers to a method where the pump mounting bolts are slacked, and the pump physically rotated clockwise or counter-clockwise to advance or retard pump timing. Do not do this! This will weaken the individual injector fuel supply pipes, not good. Follow IceV_760's - and many others, including Tom Bryant - advice below:

Originally Posted by IceV_760

Then you loose the tightening from "nose-axles" band wheel (from back)
and start to spin IP's band wheel counter-clockwise so long
as the reading in your "measuring device" goes higher.
When you notice it dont go higher anymore, stop there.
Now you will a) reset the reading from "cast-clock", or b)
put the reading on your "push-gauge" to your mind.

Assuming the rear camshaft belt ("band") and gear ("band wheel") are still removed, mount the gear and place the belt. However do not tighten the camshaft bolt, leave it loose. When you rotate the injection pump the camshaft should not rotate or timing will be incorrect. Ensure the marks line up as seen in section C3 of http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2...25/1600/p2.jpg. Rotate the injection pump gear counter-clockwise and observe the dial indicator. Keep rotating the pump until the needle no longer moves, this is your minimum value. Set the dial indicator to zero.

Originally Posted by IceV_760

Then, now you start to spin IP's band wheel clockwise,
so long at a) reading from your "cast-clock" is 0,9-1,0 ,
or b) 0,9-1 is added to your former reading, be accurate there.

Again, ensuring the camshaft is not rotating, rotate the injection pump gear clockwise and observe the dial indicator. As the needle moves this is the actual injection timing advance. From the green book:

D24 (exc. USA/Canada) : 0.90mm
D24 USA/Canada 82-83 : 0.80mm
D24 USA Federal/Canada 84-? : 0.85mm
USA Calf. 1984-? : 0.75mm

See this thread for some advice: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=51

Once you reach the desired advance, tighten the rear camshaft gear bolt to 70 foot pounds.

Originally Posted by IceV_760

Now it will be timed, if you did everything as told above,
and saved alot time compared to timing-system from greenbook.

Hope you understandet that, may not be so easy thanks my worst english.

Yes, congratulations on setting your timing! This is a difficult procedure, but once you understand it, and perform it a few times its not that bad. Please be aware that there are several special tools you need for this job. For me, I needed tools #5199 and #5201.

Thanks IceV_760, your instructions were spot on, I just changed a few things here and there to help with the reading. Your English is not bad at all! A few words get lost in translation but its nothing that we cannot figure out. Keep up the good work.