Good news and you have some progress.
That bellhousing doesn`t look that bad at all! I thought you`ll have a palm-sized chunk of it completely chipped off and missing.
It`s good because as you would expect, the `arrow`is located in the very center of the bell shaped window.
So you can just imagine that it`s still there then find the very center and mark it. You can time the engine using that very center point in the future (your own mark), and dont forget that your confirmation is the cyl1 tdc at the front cam lobes, pointing up.
If you finally take videos, just upload them on youtube (quick process) and add a link in your post.
Glad it runs better already.
Did you manage to spot the factory `0` mark?
Also, there`s a bolt visible in your picture, isn`t it the one that holds the rear belt cover?
About the dial tool.
Are you familiar with how it looks? I can take a picture.
The tool turns INTO the IP, the `hollow` Volvo tool has threads at the pump end/pump side; and that`s how it gets `locked` in the pump. The long part that connects the internals of the IP with your dial gauge, is `running` through the hollow part (the gauge end of it is screwed into the dial gauge, the gauge with the long inside part then gets inserted through , `locked` again , but this time it locks at the `front side` (locks/secures to the hollow part).
See picture below. This beautifully preserved, original, never used Volvo tool from 1986 is a good illustration for you.
The dial gauge reads until 100 / 1 , which is very convenient for us, right? You wanna set your d24 to 0.85mm -- and not 0.73
.
Note that the
hollow part of the tool has an open end where it has threads and a `
nut` can go on it and tighten the
internal part of the tool into the hollow part, once you inserted it.
But first take a look at the threaded part of the inside part. That, will thread into the dial gauge, if you undo the little `cover` that sits inside it. And that`s how it should be. (You don`t need that tiny part for this application.)
You can also see that this
gauge has a rotating face and a twist-lock, also you can set preload if you wish and monitor it in the inside dial face... Some do 2mm preload on it but I don`t.
Anyways.
So first the inside part threads into the gauge where you removed that tiny piece. Then the hollow part goes into the pump by its threads. It secures into pump. You turn in in until it stops and feels totally secured. Dont need to overtighten though.
Then you insert the inside part with the gauge and as you add the locking nut you can already tighten it to secure the whole thing. As you insert this into pump thru the hollow part, feel gently the preload when the inside touches the inside of the pump.
That`s when you set preload if desired and lock the other side of your tool. Don`t knock the pump, don`t knock the dial gauge. Treat it gently.
bla bla now you are set to go
two rotations clockwise on the crank, and then greenbook steps or sticky info.
...
...
Just watch the lowest number....set the gauge to 0 when the lowest number shows up.
You need to know where the cyl1 tdc is so start with that. Valve cover coming off.
I just wanted you to see the tool, the rest is in the book and in sticky. You can do all of this with a `shorter` vw tool. Volvo simply made it this long in order for the mechanic to not have to remove the vacum pump for timing an engine (this runs all the way thru without the v.pump being in the way for timing.
Best of luck, take picts.