[ngoma]

Originally Posted by mrvos

I just read the greenbook and it looks like a relatively simple job, only rotating the pump? (relative to camshaft and tdc)

We prefer another method, explained in this sticky:
https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1684

Rather rotate the loosened rear camshaft pulley relative to the camshaft and tdc. First rotate the IP outward, not to set timing but to make future rearmost glowplug and/or injector access easier. As Redarrow suggested, loosen slightly the injector hardlines at the IP so they don't get strained when rotating the IP. Retighten them (spec is 25 Nm, 18 ft-lbs, not as tight as most think!) after locking down the IP in its new position.

Then you will set the timing by slightly rotating the (loosened) rear camshaft pulley until your desired reading (.95mm?) shows on the dial, then lock down the pulley bolt while holding the pulley in position, somewhat tricky, may take several attempts.

You will want:

Dial indicator

Dial indicator extension piece

Cam pulley wrench
https://d24t.com/attachment.php?atta...6&d=1405467239
https://d24t.com/attachment.php?atta...7&d=1405467259

Dogleg cam pulley bolt wrench (tight access at firewall in a 240)
http://d24t.com/attachment.php?attac...5&d=1405467219

Injector hardline wrench is nice to have-- some of those nuts are a challenge
http://d24t.com/attachment.php?attac...8&d=1405467279

NOTE: IP pulley lock pin is not needed.

Originally Posted by mrvos

I am quite scared of dirt getting into the pump just from removing the screw for the dial indicator! Im not sure how sensitive the system is from experience, but it looks to be VERY sensitive.

Usually fuel wants to drip out of there, no worries unless you blow some dirt in or introduce dirt on the end of the dial indicator plunger piece.

Originally Posted by mrvos

One of the hardlines is leaking btw, i thought it was from something else but no. Tightening doesn't help, so that's the next thing on the list.

Flared end may have gotten deformed from previous over tightening. See warning above. Happily, you can order new replacement from brickwerx.com.

Originally Posted by mrvos

Also VERY ANNOYING thing - the notch on the flywheel housing IS BROKEN - for the love of god how? so i have to approximate the position provided it is not bent. Currently thinking of other ways to easily find the TDC since this is not really reliable (i can locate the middle of the broken arrow but im not sure if its bent)

That arrow is more like a wide triangle, not likely like it could bend along the direction of flywheel rotation. Is it bent in toward the flywheel?

Originally Posted by mrvos

The essence is that the pump should be set 0.65-0.73mm when the engine is at the TDC? i will manage that one way or another.

We seem to like .95mm, why don't you start there and see how that works?