Do you have the d24 engine reconditioning Greenbook book/owners manual? Highly suggested.
I have the greenbook service manuals in pdf and i can also share if anyone needs it.
About you believing or not THEIR pump repair story:
Well, solving injection pump trouble on a test- bench is definitely harder than setting timing in-car so probably they did both.
What did they do? Did they reseal the entire pump then same people installed it on your car?
I answered this in the post above. Basically, they are able to "routinely" set the pumps up for mk2 golf and such, but when it comes to installing they just slap them in and call it a day. Problem here is that people here think that these engines should have a top speed of 60mph etc anyways.
My quote from above: "There were two guys - one an old bosch mechanic (almost 70yrs old) and other who just took the pump in and out.
Here in serbia we have MANY golf mk1 and 2 diesels. So they bought new injector inserts for the mk2 golf and installed them in my injectors. They also say they tested them good.
With the pump removed he resealed the pump and set the pump timing and quantity on the bosch table by the bosch charts (i didnt see that but i believe him tbh) That doesn't mean he didn't mess it up
Then when he and his guy started to return the pump in the car, it was a 3 days long agony They managed to get the car running finally using a dial indicator FOR THE FIRST TIME IN THEIR LIFES. The thing is that there are many golf mk2 diesels here and that they do the timing by the ear on them apparently (heard that from another bosch service i then decided to avoid)."
About smoke again.
A lot of smoke all times, as you said...IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.
Weak car, old car, diesel, yes yes yes, but that kind of smoking is not allowed. Your engine is misadjusted or you have bad injectors or they arent perfect. Gotta check timing at the rear belt (fuel timing)
Valve adjustment.
You MUST, again, MUST
check and adjust the valves. Must
And it takes less than an hour even for the beginner vw dieseler.
Please do adjust the valve ASAP. You need to have a chart for yourself to be able to write down values and make a plan on how to swap or switch the shims.
It is super easy you can pm me or whatever I will explain or you read the Greenbook. Valve adj is an absolute must and it is suggested at every 12k but definitely must at every 20-30k because as they wear the gaps get tighter and that is NOT good for you r internals. The intake valve gap must be tigggghhhhht by now. God, when was it even done last time?
It isnt causing your issue btw but please adjust the valves.
THANK YOU! I was saying this for years! But all mechanics sware to GOD that its hydrolifters. I just have to find shims here, that isnt very fun to make
IT WAS NEVER DONE FOR AT LEAST 450k KM
There is no damn lifters in the d24 early 200 nonturbo engines so whoever said that to you please turn away and run and never go back to them for any*advice on your d24. Nonturbo d24 needs to have valves adjusted, period!
The later 700 and 900 models do have hydr lifters but that`s your next d24 car not this one Euro TIC motors are REALLY nice and they dont have the stupid waterpump timingbelt tensioner system LOL.
They are cheap now, soon
also
to express something equally important as the regular tb service:
it is important to have zero overheat stories whatsoever.
these engine usually died due to overheating because of either misadjusted or neglected or misunderstood.
If you experience the slightest overheating, you gotta stop driving the car. Not for a break but for until you redo the entire cooling system and have it safe again. No overheating is `allowed` in these or you may pay the highest price, the life of your rare survivor car.
If overheat happens, catastrophicv engine damage is almost inevitable so please do your thing and check for leak before and after trips and perhaps at every time you use the car. why not?
No coolant leaks are accepted and if you lose coolant, it takes not much time for the head to warp beyond specs then what?
Big job and too much money too.
Overheating you kept having earlier, could you describe what it was and how when it was happening?
Overheating kills these engines but it is so easy to avoid if the system is kept neatly in order. Hoses, radiator, proper 80 or 87C thermostat, etc.
Before i changed the injectors and after reduced the fuel screw it used to get overheat all the time. Now it stopped and is cool like a swimming pool. You want to go uphill? Overheat. You want to go 90kph instead of 80kph? overheat. You want to drive "hard" as in accelerate a bit less slow? Overheat.
I have another gauge cluster for that + i regularly check with IR gun + i have a lot of oil on intake from valve cover (will be changed soon) so it starts to smell
so i monitor it carefully.
It never overheated terribly tho! We all kept an eye on it. It got to almost red a few times but that was 10 yrs ago. We are careful about that. But it did spend a lot of time in 2/3 because it really was a terrible problem.
Sometimes it was driven without the thermostat in the summer (i sorted this out later).
The overheating is from something else, not the cooling system (it is not perfect but it is good, new waterpump, second hand but good radiator, no leaky hoses etc.) I answered above also
I should have said in the beginning of this long answer:
you must check your timing and start there.
Add a new fuel filter now too.
About the CS device, no worries.*
and go from there,
stay in touch here and document your troubles so we can see how you and the car are doing.
There must be dieselers around you,
try to meet up and sort things out there too.
Best of luck and dont*give up, soon your car running great again.*
I will keep this thread updated. I hate it when someone solves the problem and then doesn't update the thread
There are dieselers, but mercedes and they are kind of elitists here
. all volvo d24 here are completely detuned smoky mess and rare to begin with.
Thank you, there is no giving up. The car is here to stay