Oh ok, that makes a little more sense. So have you been able to get it re started? Is it cranking over pretty fast? From what I'm gathering, it started ok for the mechanic the first time after he fixed it then no go?

Jason

Basically, yeah. I'm going to go out and try it in a few. The cranking speed seems about the same.

I would give that bg 109 a shot, I know the NA d24s were bad about sooting up the rings. If it is low on compression, I wouldn't count on just a re ring job, you will probably have to get it bored oversize. They are bad about wearing the cylinders in an egg shape. It will run for a few thousand miles and you'll be low on compression again.

Jason

To get more life out of your D24 it's also a good idea to put an oil cooler. I still have to put one on my diesel.

Well, it's been three days and the car has started up every time. I still need to mash the throttle down as it's cranking and keep the RPMs around 1000-1500 for a few seconds before it will idle, but it runs. I don't know what the mechanic was talking about when he said there was less smoke, because there's still plenty. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for all your help throughout the past two months. It's definitely been a learning experience.

Try out the BG 109 and let us know if it helps. Also did you get your injectors pop tested? If the spray pattern is crappy or they test low that could be a big part of the problem.

Jason

If i can quote and correct some points would that be okay?
Since d24x powered engiens were pretty commonly used here on Finland on taxi's on 90's in 940series, and it had also it own fans in 80's too.
This is same problem as Mercedez-Benz had on w124/w210 on their 5 and 6 cylinder engines. Thing that kills both D24 and Mercedez OMxxx family is long idle times. Cylindergroup is so long at coolant dont cool anymore on last one or two cylinders
in idle enough anymore, neither oil pressure isnt enough to quarantee 100 procentish lubrication . These two compared together adds increased wearing to last two cylinders, and wears them to egg shape.
One solution is to raise idlespeed, which increases the oil and coolant flow.
Also every start wears d24, because the placing of oil pump,
few first second cylinderhead runs without/with low oil since pump needs to suck oil first from "oil storage" (lol what is the word).
To help to that case you can add 3 desilitres more oil as max.amount is without causing cranksaft to be in danger to hit oil surface in any situation.
Well, gone little out of topic sorry about that.

EDITED some really crappy writing and few other things.

Please, dont hesitate to share whatever insight you have!

The dry startup is a problem, and is aggrevated if the engine is low on oil, or parked on an uphill incline. I run mine a half quart or so overfull, and when parking on a hill, orient the car so the nose is pointed down hill. My engine gets oil pressure within a second or two of startup.

Besides the above listed issues, the non turbo blocks were softer, so the soot that builds up in the oil, and in the rings wore the block even faster.

At least it is running though! I'm very interested to see what kind of difference the BG makes, also what kind of shape your injectors are in.

How does it run once its hot?

Jason

It runs pretty good, I would say (at least as good as it ever has since I've had it). One thing though that was a problem even before the car refused to start is inconsistent oil pressure. It started after I changed the oil for the first time. I had consulted the manual before going to the auto parts store and remembered that it said 7.4 qts or something like that. I bought two 1-gallon jugs of 15w-40 Delvac and ended up using it all (I wasn't paying attention while I was pouring). I figured it'd be ok and just ran it. Immediately, I notice that my oil pressure is high. Usually the gauge reads around 2 bar at idle, but this time it was close to 4! When I gave it throttle, the needle would go past 5 bar and stick even after I was off the gas. It would then gradually lower itself back down to around 4 bar. But then sometimes I would be driving and the pressure would drop down to 2 bar at idle. The problem remains, and just today it got as high as 5 bar at idle. I had honestly forgotten about this little detail until I drove it this morning.

Wow. ~7.6litres. That is too much, i suggest you right away to go on some workshop and suck some oil away. The engine itself takes 6,2 litres ( 1.368 gallons) oil + filters capacity (notice: Volvos own big oil filter has capacity of 0,5litres (0,132gallons) but if you buy same size sparepart filter like HENGST or one other, cant remember mark, it has only capacity of 0,4litres (0,105gallons) even it has same outer size, there i failed when i always fill to max possible where cranksaft wont hit oil surface on any situation. So i gone and filled as usually but noticed on 11% hill at motor was vibrating, wasnt on too high gear, so i come to decision cranksaft was hitting oil surface, not good. Had to change new oils, since hadnt availability to suck some oil from it. Now works as intendet. So take a look about whats the capacity of filter) and then you can add something below 0,1gallons to help startups.

Jason, i didnt know earlier d24 blocks were softer. That explains why older people talk almost firstly when they see my car, at d24 had poor reputation on 70's and start of 80's until 760 and d24t got presented.
And the problem was just the wearing.