RedArrow Refurbishes d24t from a brown 740
 

Updated my text, read below.

Im on a camping trip to disassemble a td car and would need quick advice whether or not I should keep the rear.
Is it worth the hassle, and, is it really diesel specific (OR other 700 models also used it)? I would need to know, ASAP. Thank you!

The car is a crusty rusty 1985 740 sedan with AT.
I took my time and currently about half way there to lift the unit.

Remind me of the keeper bits , please.


I planned to take entire engine with wires and bits, rad, shroud and some mounts, AC system for the pipes and compr (system holding charge),
tranny and piping from ZF, the TD instr cluster. IDK, what else? Probably the fuel filler neck, if i have the time.
And drive shafts too (will mark them).

What about crossmember? Im planning to keep it as a whole unit. And with the springs from TD but idk if i should keep the strut tubes of the front Macpherson.
Is it any special for the d24t? Or gassers used it too, same unit?


What about rear diff ...again.....? Advice needed.
For the gear ratios idk whether or not I should keep it. Is it a 3.54? Again, IDK. I can`t seem to locate the (missing) label.

Car is a 1985 sedan, a `factory turbodiesel` car.




Sorry for the confusion,
I`m typing on low battery. Placed a spraycan of brake cleaner for the PA bears next to my pillow, between the seats.
Yes, I`m spending the nigh in the car. Chilling in the flat wagon trunk. Lol. :)


What about the d24 factory thin swaybars. Are they keepers because d24t specific? (Prob aren`t worth keeping)


What about the driver seat height lifter in the bottom unit? Would it transfer to a pass seat? I`ve done that in my d24 240.


What about other parts that I`m not thinking of but important? I`m sure im missing something. I`m keeping the diesel battery tray and airbox unit too.

I removed and kept the throttle cable, etc, and the unusable engine harness, only for reference.

There is no clutch pedal assembly to keep :), it is an auto car.



What about the shaft, is it dieselspecific too? I`d say it is. From tranny to differential is it d24(t)- specific? OR , gassers used the same? I guess: NO.


ZF linkage is not diesel specific, right? Prob all ZF trannies share same linkage parts.
IDK, so I`m keeping it. I mean, under the shifter itself, below the car. I will keep the rods too, obviously. And ZF tranny pipes.


Question:
how long can a ZF "roll" 'safely without tranny trouble"? IF towed on rearwheels?
By distance or/and by time, what can it survive? If known to be bad, I won`t keep the ZF then... unless i should bc it is D specific(?).


What else? Idk im tired now at 2.30am. Did all preps for liftoff in 6hrs... unfortunately, alone.

I`d appreciate a quick response!




I`m 200miles out in big mountains and it`s gotta be something *again.
This POS gtd injector set im not lucky with. Another one gave up on my trip and started knocking rattling.
This is the third of six within less than a few thousand miles. IDK why am I so unlucky with it? Will throw them out, install my old 6 till i find a good rebuilder for my multiple sets.

How far can i drive w a knocking injector? Car does 50-70 MPH, no problem, but I can hear the injector (I`m also set with a 1-ton trailer + the parts on the way home. I will take it easy! M46......
On the way here it was fine but PA has mtns!!!! Often, very low speeds :) I hope I will make it back to New York.


Advice welcome... Day will start at 7AM, to see which inj is acting up. Then grab the sedan parts and load everything up. I have extra injs with me: my old, worn but known good, smokey injectors. IDK if I should waste time dropping one in. I`m so far out in the woods!



Update.

It is 5am here and i slept 15minutes finally. Freaking coffee! In 2hrs the project continues. I won`t get answers early today, I know..... a reply here is hard to get... also bc it is Sunday in PA, USA and Sunday everywhere in the world :) . It`s very early in the west coast, too.
So... no bears came at night. Finally there is daylight... Time to start bricking again soon.



Some info for now:



The car is tan inside and has pluss seats in "yellow or mustard, IDK what color.

Horribly dirty but so comfy! Interior was gone long yrs ago.
Car is totally in sad condition, became junkyard "quality" -- caused by elements.

Think of: sunlight exposure, perhaps some neglect involved too, water damage, mold, rain, snow, other leaks, dirt, even plenty of garbage inside.
And tons of serious underbody rust. When I say rust, this has rust!
ALSO, maybe an elderly owner who didn`t have the time, the energy, or both, to deal with keeping this TD on the road or even transfering it under a roof.
And we have to mention the strict PA inspection rules too as a strong factor in why the car ended up `here`.

I`ll make sure to contact him/her/them, to share my progress once the engine gets cleaned up, hopefully running and back to healthy life again!

Unsavable body except maybe a trunk lid and a few doors. No time, no space, no interest.
Car ended up in this condition not from the road use but from being parked, parked not on concrete. (I think.)

Yeah

Sorry I have to apologize for my lack of attention span. (nearly crosseyed by this time)

Kindly asking you to Please list your questions by priority.

Crossposted.

GP relay/wiring?
Battery tray/cables?

If you have space. Might be easier anyway to pull engine/trans together.

Front springs different but otherwise IDK.

Think so.

Cool!

IDK, IDK.

I think the front flange is different, overall length probably different.

Indicator is different.

IDK

Can you tell us where are they from? So we won't repeat your mistake.

d24t 1985 740 sedan
 

Thank you for the answers Ngoma. I will probably continue this thread hopefully share details and picts soon. Good progress..

The 740 TD automatic rear axle is a 3.91:1 ratio, pretty short gears. I would not really say it is worth the massive work to take it and transport it. There is no functional difference versus the gasser rear ends, they can sub right in, and most of those are 3.73:1 which IMO is actually a little better, if anything, than the stock diesel gearing in today's world of 85mph speed limits and 90+mph traffic speeds. Back when these cars were new and 55mph speed limits were commonplace the shorter gearing might have made more sense but for road use now, sacrificing some punch off the line for lower revs on the highway probably makes sense.

Sounds like a fun project, how did it go getting it all apart?

Gasser struts are all the same as diesels except the springs, I wouldn't go to any major effort there but it seems simplest/fastest in a situation like what you are working with to just take the entire upright, with strut and spring and knuckle etc.

The front crossmember would definitely be worth taking if it is an '86 car but if it is 85 or earlier, not really worth too much effort, especially if you can already see some cracks starting in it or any kind of rust. The 1986 one year only xmember is improved so that is the one you want -- or the same part is used on 89-91 gasser 7 or 9 with a B234F 16 valve 4cyl engine. If going after the crossmember is going to add a lot of work and it's the early type I personally would save the effort and just keep your eye out for one of those updated ones. The early type all crack sooner or later.

ZF shift linkage rods are all different and the shift lever is too, doesn't have the OD button of the AW7x gasser trans. But you might not care too much about this unless you are planning a TD/ZF swap into a gas car...

Good luck!! :)

Brown 1986 sedan 740 with automatic transmission `saved` and also RIP
 

Thank you V8Volvo,
your answers are always very helpful and thorough. I really appreciate it. Unfortunately I havent seen your reply until I left from where the car was.
Is there a way to rename this thread to something else in the future so I didnt have to start a new one?

ALSO, I have to figure out HOW to share pictures the right way here, to keep them enjoyable and somewhat good quality. The picts I attach are always high quality on my phone, but the forum doesnt accept them unless I reduce size etc but then they are nearly useless and annoying to see (bc they get too small and blurred/faded etc). What`s the suggestion about posting pictures? 5 picts can go in each reply i know.
I often see very very large size pictures posted on this forum in other threads and they appear to be so clear.

OK...

For those who would like to know details, here`s some basic info about the car:

Brown color 740 GLE TD 1985 with the ZF tranny. Sedan.
VIN: YV1DX7640F1187589
Other info and numbers on the vin plate were "31", "205-3", "4851"

One day in the past, many many years ago, it must have been a very beautiful car with an attractive color combination. The brown color looked amazing under the sun and I think it is an awesome color. Tom B. really likes it too I think.

Anyway. A week ago I called the seller at 11PM and left a voicemail with an offer and asked for a call back. Next morning my phone rang and this whole turbodiesel volvo story started. Things went quickly and I was already organizing the Uhaul trailer for the following day and I was making plans to get there asap to see in person what car I bought :)
I hope sharing many pictures and will be trying to write how it all went.

I started `following` this car online since a few weeks earlier when it was still listed as for sale, still owned by the original owner who was born in 1929 (91yo?) and who bought this baby in 1985, brand new, from a nearby Pennsylvania Volvo dealership and had it ever since. I have some of that paperwork and many receipts and booklets that explained basic diesel stuff to the happy owner.

The clocks shows 182580 miles and the last `trip` was 233miles by (so odometer probably works).

The car has (actually, had) nice mustard/green/yellow-ish idk what color pluss seats. They looked very nice new and even after all this time and car sitting, felt comfy. Only the driver seat was heated, which is weird bc it is a GLE so I think it should have above-basic accessories. IDK. And there was no sunroof but that couldnt save this interior.

The car probably sat many years and the sun faded away the entire inside and ate all paint and made plastics very brittle inside.
The headliner disappeared and the entire car looked junkyard quality. In original picts it looked great but in person it looked horrible actually. Or worse. Picts also cant tell the odor it had.

The carpets showed dirt, water damage, fading, trash, fluid stains and mold etc. The rear car door seal was ductaped, inside edges reinforced with foam and alu foil etc. Probably bc always leaked.



Fast forward to when I arrive,
things went well and now I have a d24t spare with other bits that I took home.

I hope to sort out the picts and post them here in enjoyable quality. I also took videos because not everything went smoothly so I had to come up with ideas on the spot.

So far, took it home and took off the zf tranny and put the motor on the engine stand and trying to sort things while accessories were coming off.

I`ll need to post a lot to figure out what exactly was going on with this engine. :)

Someone did work on it and I am already seeing evidence of proper maintenance and quality parts from the factory.

That`s the good news. The bad news is that I couldnt get it to start yet, also partly bc I didnt want to.
Had to go thru some major thorough inspection.


The engine turning over (by hand, so no stuck internals) also did turn it over before I took the engine out of the car in PA.
Not super smoothly and without effort but it did and does turn.

What has been done so far:

Received a wash bc it was pretty much very dirty.
Put it on a stand and installed a new starter (long story, the starter was dead and they all said that that is why the car wasnt used for so long...idk)
Have been hand cranking it over and over, both directions.
Flushed the injection pump multiple times using ATF but havent seen much dirt nor evidence of clogging or gelling, nothing weird. Clean diesel came out of it first but this car hasnt ran for a while. I will call and ask original owner to provide me with a thorough history and stories on this car, if (he is) still available.
I removed valve cover and checked the cam, no visible issues and it does look so healthy, no bruises no visible wear. Great. Also the oil looked Very nice and no signs of water, Also no oil in water in reservoir and coolant leaking from block was also chrystal clear/blue by Volvo.
I checked the valve clearances carefully by the book and found none that need adjustment, the intakes are religiously at .2 and the exhausts are at .4 with the exception of E valve on cyl #6 being .45 which is still good. I was expecting some tighht intakes but found NONE.

The glow plugs were all dead. All six. I suspect a sticking relay bc i found a 2nd set of champions loosely thrown in trunk but they were IN oem bosch glowplug duratherm boxes but those duratherms are not the ones in the head. In the head i found I think 4-5 CH39 champions and 1 or 2 made in FRance glowplugs but all 6 tested and totally DEAD.

Part 2
 

Didnt want to lose my text...

So now it has 6 new glowplugs that I installed and redid the bus bars with new insulators bc i was already in there.

I`ve been hand cranking all the time and also did some using various batteries and jumpers etc. The alternator is removed and not on the engine as of now.

I looked inside the intake and it has oil but nothing fully clogged up and yes sludgy but only a layer which is normal.

The Garrett T3 turbine has no in-out or sideways play so that`s good too.

I used new seals and removed the injectors for checkup but havent tested them at all, no equipment to do so. Also new return lines.

The car had oem Volvo coolant hoses etc and mostly everything labeled by volvo.

Someone knew about these cars, probably the dealership.

The valve cover gasket is the 1piece rubber type, in good cond.

THE CAR WAS LAST LEGALLY REGISTERED IN 2012 AND EXPIRED IN 2014. that`s s x years, but the timing belts shows no wear that indicates that sitting, i cant see deteriorating rubber, same for the pump belt in the rear. IDK. will ask.

Though, the rear belt is too tight. I`ll check current timing out of curiosity and redo the belt in the rear. The frnt def can serve for now to have a start up.

I bought 2 gallons of 5w40 mobil1 td oil and added a new mann filter

the motor oil is drained and i havent put in the new one.

The waterpump and the idler seems to be in very acceptable condition (visual, no play)

Timing belt cover was fully dry inside and no signs of oil leak in there, good.

Removed the vacuumpump and saw a fresh looking oval gasket, probably original and not just an oring or what i usually see: gasketmaker:)

The valves have shims that look very nice and no signs of bad oil used, they are in the range of 3.50-3.85.
All move nicely and dont appear to be `stuck`

The starter was dead, a Hitachi small version.

I installed a good Bosch unit from my d24 nonturbo and tried spinning the thing a little, of course 12v taken from IP and 30seconds with 5min breaks.

Every time I hit the starter I felt like it wasnt spinning fast enough. Took the life of the great cond battery that i took from my other daily d24t.

so i grabbed another starter i have as a spare, from another nonturbo. That is a rebuilt certified unit, remy, mexican type and had a rebuild. Sizewise it is huge. That`s what is on now.

BUT

The engine wont turn easily unless I get the glowplugs out or the injectors.
I then kept the injectors in and took out all 6 plugs and thats where i am now. I can spin the motor by hand and it has no weirtd feel to it. no assymetric, `feelable` cylinder movements whatsoever, but

when the plugs and injrs are all in and tight, the starter wont turn it over, AND
even by hand, the engine build up compression that is too big to let it turn smoothly.

I suspected that it was bad starter motor or a tired battery or stuck rings etc at first but all those i close out by now. Thinking that I partially hydrolocked it at the carwash or just by turning it a lot.

on day 3 i added 1 ML (1milliliter) of new motor oil through the inj holes to possibly free up something if stuck at all. no change.

it is i think tons less than a tablespoon bc i did use a medical syringe to do exactly 1ml. no joke, it was minimal and i was careful.
So i dont think i hydrolocked it.
My thinking need to focus on something else. maybe the injectors leaked in? i have no idea anymore.

Also, if it ever hydrolocked (lets say it did), it never ran like it so there should be no damage. What i mean by not turning smoothly is, that at each and every cyl it gets too tight but it wont stop completwely. i can hand turn it through that spot and keep going. No hits felt, no noise, no internal sounds, it is smooth but there is too much compression.

I wonder how that is possible. lets assume it is hydrolocked.

wouldnt it need to squirt out after so much spinning?

I even moved the engine upside down and tried every angle and comprssed air and spinning by hand and or battery etc. by starter i mean. Everything that was there, should be out by nowm but as soon as i tighten the plugs and injectors it has ``too much compr`` (lol) at each cyl as i crank that starter wont hold a nice and steady roll. it wont be able to turn it as it should.

But again, nothing inisde feels stuck at all and when lugs are all out, engine turns like smoothest possible.

I should get some sleep bc it was several long days with not much sleep. Im sure im missing something..


Loads of info, i know, but this is the situation here. :)

Pictures and other details tomorrow...

3
 

Someone did work really well on this motor so im hoping it has no bad news about compression or other failures unknown for now.

Engine (old) oil had zero chunks and no crap in it..
Car has wahler 87 thermostat and it came with a new nissens radiator too and couple of hoses made by volvo. It did get the right stuff all over the engine. Im hoping for a nice recovery. Had `fresher looking`volvo mounts on both sides and in tranny.

BTW the timing belt says volvo on it. idk how that is possible.
No sludge under the valve cover either and the inj pump has a sticker with the rebuilding company`s name and address, a reputable diesel shop in harrisburg PA. Diesel injection specialists.

so that`s good news
Even the ps bracket is not cracked:)
Car had volvo original fuel filter and the same white volvo oil filter installed (not original from 85 but original by the manufacturer lol)

Engine wiring harness appears to be a real mess biodegradable wires by Volvo. I imagine some glowplug relay or 12V to inj pump wire issues.

Also took ac parts bc my other d24 needed it some piping and a compressor (prob frozen on this too, lol)


***
I set up jars and a flushing sytem for the pump and also installed a low pressure fuel pump to assist bleeding and the first start which im very excited about...
it may never happen unless i figure out and proceed to find the cause of this slow-turning issue.
I keep reading about how to get rid of a hydrolock situ so advice is welcome.


I`ll not do carwash on my next d24t. It may have got some water thru the intake but i highly doubt. also it should have come out already bc i cranked a lot with plugs out. somethimes injs out only. then plugs only, then both all out then etc etc.
Something holds and wont let it turn as it should.

I went ahead outside and handcranked my daily driver d24t and it felt 2x easier (took less effort) to hand crank it ---of course by the 27mm crankshaft nut the famous f...ng 4-500ft/lb story nut.

BTW. The car paperwork mentions it as `Volvo 740 GLE TDA`

So yes, A for Automatic, i think. The other day this came up in another thread somewhere here, there was a conversation about what A means in the TDA.

The car
 

Brown 744 1owner sadness

1985 brown 744 car with the d24 turbodiesel.
 

Okay,
so...
I don`t know what hit me when I thought a jumper cable would do justice... what a mistake. I went through some long thinking for a day to figure out what causes the engine `stuck` and `holding starter from doing its job`... ugh... till I decided to set the valves instead...

While doing that I discovered how insane of an idea it was to trust a jumper cable from daily driver d24t car new battery to starter to attempt a start-up.

This poor thing couldnt handle half of the juice that battery has and proper power never reached the poor starter lol. Upon inspection I saw that the jumper cable kind of melted away bigtime at places.

So, I grabbed the red thick positive cable from the donor car`s crossmember and used that and the car`s original earth connection and cable. Connected the battery to the d24t engine the right way as if it was in a car still. All connections were double checked (also on the ground on the motor):
All got OCD cleaned till bare metal and tightly safely hooked it all up and managed to achieve a super strong and fast rpm cranking immediately.

I installed the glowplugs back again and tested them again... and redid again the injectors with new seals and proper torque and set up the hard lines and the fuel system for a nice AND SAFE startup.

Filled the motor with 2gallons of Mobil 1 turbodiesel truck 5W40 motor oil and also for fuel at the IP I added a new, transparent bottle with fresh diesel in it.
Prepped the 12V hookup for the IP and made new ring connectors for the low-pressure inline fuel pump I added the day before.

For now, there is no factory fuel filtration set up but I kept surgical cleanliness around the fuel system, IP, injectors etc.
Earlier, and again, the injection pump has been flushed multiple times and appeared to be transfering fuel beautifully without dirt popping up...no hiccups no signs of scary goo whatsoever. At first, for the first days of hand cranking and pump flushing, the fuel return line was placed into a different bottle separately (not where the fuel was sucked into the IP from) but today for the initial first real startup I used only one bottle and drove both hoses into it to make it easier for me to handle the fluids and to not have to watch levels or refill the small bottle. But again it cant be run without coolant for too long...:)

The glowplugs needed to have power too and I activated them manually for 12seconds which I tested before and knew it was enough. All six were glowing red in 6-8seconds and I monitored that thru the injectors` holes earlier when injectors were still out... so later for the startup I only did glowplugs once, but I did 12seconds. I never cycle my d24t glowplugs. I use Bosch Duratherm quality plugs.

There was a huge amount of air in, so it took about 4 tries of 30-45seconds of cranking (5mins apart) to go thru some bleeding that was enough finally to let me power up the 12V to the IP. (There was a lot of cranking done earlier for the oil pump and for the oil to reach places) EXCITING!!!!
Hurrayy the shutoff solenoid also clicked (and I verified 12.x Volts both at the ip and at the starter too).

I used a wire as `rope` thru the throttle linkage holes in order for me to pull the throttle linkage into WOT when if it was necessary.
:) :)
Prepared a 2x4 wooden piece and kept it handy at all times, didn`t give this nice d24t a chance to go thru a runaway situation due to stuck internals of the ip or whatever (would use it to block intake / or turbo inlet / if the engine developed a runaway, to choke the engine to a full stop).

I never needed it but it is a must when a car sat years. Or when you dont know IF it sat...

Ready to do glowplugs, hit the `key`, Sure it fired up very soon! On all cylinders! And all at once! and no weird running or acting up. 3 straps also supported the engine to the beams in the ceiling, just in case if it wanted to wobble off the stand or anything.
Started!!!!!! RUNSSSSS!
And it runs really well, I think.

I forgot to disconnect the coldstart device so the first idle sounds too high... but now that is done and tomorrow I will finally check timing...
It doesnt seem to be off though. The cellphone microphone picked up all kind of noises and the motor sounds way louder than it was in real life. The garage echoes but anyway it ran so nicely.

The motor smokes a little, i think only because the ip had a flush earlier using the mixture of wd40 and atf, 1 to 10 ratio I think. All of that has left remains in the system so I think that is why it smoked so much. The coolant passage at the removed thermostat started to give out some ``smoke`` too, I`m hoping it is just some coolant vaporizing from the internal ways of the cooling system within the block. To be confirmed later...

It roared up to life and ran relatively smoothly. The rpm was too high i think or it isnt perfectly set, idk for now. Tinkering will have to wait until tomorrow...

I could only run it for 30 seconds bc theres no cooling system for now.
In the next hour I ran it for another 1minute and then after waiting another hour I ran it for 90seconds. Someone could give me advice on that because for now I do not think anything over a minute is safe.

It seems to run flawlessly and I am so so happy!

I can hear 1 injector knocking just a tiny bit, i think.
Im not sure bc the little fuel pump also has this weird sound as it is helping the IP receive constant fuel... not like it needed it. Im especially glad about that, too. Soon after it deserved fresh paint for the IP cover as Farm Equipment Green from Rustoleum which I like a lot. Close to the color it originally had, I think.

So, time to share pictures and videos but I am feeling knocked down a little. It was multiple days of diesel bricking but it was definitely worth the try to resurrect this one.
And, it was worth saving it from the sedan that got scrapped right after I saved whatever was savable.

Another d24t car died but its heart lives on and hopefully it will make it one day into a nice clean wagon.

Cheers everyone, thank you for this forum for the endless great info and advice.
Happy Bricking, dieselers!

Video of cranking etc
 

https://youtu.be/DqVyHppzVNc

https://youtu.be/U00DYSakJL0

The big starter is a Remy, remanufactured in Mexico, runs perfect, the black one is a big Bosch, perfect, the one that was on the car and broke is a Hitachi small size starter, and idk what I have on my other d24t.

Interesting to see the size differences, I`ll take another pict to show how small the hitachi is compared to the bosch here.
The hitachi starter btw got killed on the 744 i think because the glowplugs were all out and they cranked it too much.

So, summary, glowplugs and consequently the dead starter plus major rust too, were the cause of this 744td ending up in the junkyard and almost smashed to the ground on the same day. I`m so glad I saved this one. Let`s hope it runs well and the story continues.

Nice! Good save!

I remember seeing that car come up in the orphan thread on tbricks a while ago, figured when I saw what it looked like half sunk into the ground and with all the body damage it would be a goner for sure.

Great stories, glad you scored some good parts off it and a good running engine!

Good on you for figuring out that the cheap run-of-the-mill jumper cables weren't up to the task. That is what made your happy results possible. BTW, there ARE jumper cables that can do what you were attempting, but they are not what you find easily at Walmart. Not popular enough because they are expensive, heavy, thick, hard to wrestle with.

Here are a couple of ideas for you for next time:

When priming the system, DO have the IP fuel shutoff energized and the throttle position held at WOT-- in an effort to fill the injectors and hardlines as soon as possible.

When you had the injectors or GPs out, you could have added some motor oil (~1/4 tsp.) into each hole. This helps quickly raise the compression, especially if the rings may have dried out over time.

Yeah, I actually did that, you can see me pulling it by a long wire :)
The oil def helped some though it did already have some very good compression built up through the days of tinkering. I hand-rolled the engine over and over again in both directions, countless times each day and then with the starter, plugs or injctrs or both out.

It was really cool to get it back to life actually.
Next time I will do 12V all the time as you suggested but this time I definitely didnt want it to possibly fire up too early for a few days so I had time to go thru other stuff.


Pictures: my hands arent covered in oil that is leaking but the dirty block had its oil lifted up by the good old diesel fuel which i used to clean up stuff... It lifted up most of the crap as stage 1 cleanup lol. Great for soaking too and I dont need to fill my lungs with brake cleaner :)

Yeah it was awesome to finally have a td popping up `near me` (200miles UGHH). Nothing went smoothly but all in all it was great adventure and keeps coming.
Thanks for the motivation!
Yes the car itself had to be scrapped due to extensive heavy rust and a nonexistent paintjob too unfortunately. Interior was also nearly horrible.
It must have been a very nice car to drive, esp in 1985 and I`m sure the only owner loved it all all along and partly that`s why it never got sold until it completely went from no use.
Sad. I`m sure they loved this car and it got the parts it needed, from Volvo.

I found paperwork in the car that shows paperwork and tabs, insurance etc from a 1986 Volvo 740 wagon Turbodiesel too, which they also owned.
I wonder where it is, I may ask the owner about specific history on this car, or whatever they can remember about the life of their diesel. Maybe they have some info on how and why the sedan got parked.

According to the initial ad and also the story I heard from the scrapper tower is that there was a dui involved and the car had some rust and wouldnt pass the strict state inspection then got parked. It was listed with info stating that the starter was dead so we can figure some.

I ran the motor today again for a short time about 90seconds and tried to see also how it starts after that. Seems to be a nice one.
I`m going to include some pictures in every post. The belts front and back are Volvo belts. Are those still available and installed at/by the dealerships or am I looking at ancient setups:)?
I`m guessing that this one owner car when if it had trouble it always ended up at the Volvo stealership and got set up properly there and dressed up with oem parts. Clearly someone bricksmart did the work on this thing and the parts I`m seeing tell the story.

Im just hoping for now that the HG isnt gone and the fog/smoke/steam/vapor is not exhaust gases but evaporating leftovers of the coolant still inside the passageways of the motor. Thru the thermostat housing I mean. My wobbly shaky videos show some of that.

BTW, car has a 3-notch headgasket and I can read what exactly it has on.
It is also possible that this motor got rebuilt at some point just as the injection pump was. If it was, I cant tell for now but as I said, I will ask the PO and share here.

They forgot to do the Italian tune-up, for sure. Probably elderly folks.

D24t 744 1985 td motor checkups
 

more pictures of some progress...

The exhaust manifold has a crack at the same location where my other d24t developed one: right under the mushroom egr lowest joint...at the skinny part of the ex manifold.
Prob a common crack? Idk.

The factory green started showing.

I have a question.
The water plugs or freeze plugs look shiny. I never had a used d24 with those being so clean so i assume these arent the factory originals.
Nice. I usually get the old bastards out too and add new ones. Someone was in there bc i think these normally would be same color as the block at factory.right?

Question #2

3 of 6 exhaust manifold holes show 3 of 6 exhaust valve stems being a little 'wet' / shiny. Shouldnt they be fully dry and "burnt" out like the other 3 are?
Probably needing a set of new seals in the head for under the shims and buckets.

Exhaust valve stem seals 3 of 6 look shiny 3 of 6 look dry
 

Some more pictures...

valve cover definitely leaked constantly. the valve cover gasket was good but the nuts were not properly tightened or not tightened enough

I usually call the manifolds` side/passenger side "the oil side" and I call the driver side of the engine "the diesel side", for a reason:) but you could also call it the power steering fluid side by the common leaks

A harder brush toothbrush with a somewhat flexible handle, dipped in diesel, works wonders. I plugged the oil hoses and tipped the engine over enough so if anything falls or leaks at all, it wouldnt end up inside the engine through the intake/exhaust holes.
Diesel-dipped towel twisted upon no-lint microfiber towels did the job for me today without spraying chemicals and without getting fluids in.

Finally some visible progress.
Manifolds must be cleaned up tomorrow and I`m planning to disable and shut off the egr holes in the future. On the 744 donor car, the factory EGR syste was STILL IN PLACE as it was installed in factory.. interesting bc I have never seen one of those intact as it was originally installed in the factory. COOL! All parts were present, wiring and all, all joints etc and still connected everywhere and nothing missing..

I did keep BTW everything from underneath the hood, except one thing: the brake booster and the master cylinder. There`s no way I could figure that egr system out again though. :) and the cars dont need it either. i think..

Other things I decided to remove and keep from the donor td car:

-front struts tubes etc as a unit, springs from the diesel donor car are diesel-specific but I didnt know the rest isnt.

-rear differential and accessories, bolts etc as a unit

-zf22 auto transmission with linkages and bellhousing but not the shifter (according to a pro td volvo person it is diesel specific too)

-some emblems and badges from the diesel car

-a brand new looking nissens radiator, the fan shroud and some rad mounts and the ac fan at the front, the ac system

-various plastic bits behind the grill area

-td relay for the glow system and all wires from underneath the hood for reference (engine harness too and all connectors etc)

-also kept the shaft from between the zf and the rear diff and marked them

-some tranny mount and shaft mounts

-front exhaust pipe that starts at the turbo and connects to the rest of the exhaust (downpipe?)

-UNFORTUNATELY I had no time left (had to repair my own car that towed this stuff home) and later had no good access anymore either, to remove the turbodiesel diesel filler neck unit at the trunk.
That is def a diesel specific thing and I really wanted it but was exhausted and excited and irritated and it got damaged through the struggle working it off. Next time...

-also kept the diesel crossmember from this 1985 car bc it has no cracks for now, mine does have cracks,

-battery cables, battery tray finally I have one in good condition after all these years,

-i brought home the instrument cluster which may be very diesel specific actually. shows 182000 miles.

-volvo toolkit from the trunk and some various interior pieces but not much, it was all gone meaning faded broken ugly and cracked

-the car also donated a left side rear mudflap that mine needed bc a few winters back I chopped mine up with a snowshovel ughh


I am having a hard time removing a connection to separate the ac condenser from the piping that is the drivers side one out of the two that both run on the passenger side to the inside of the car.
That weirdly shaped pipe is so weak and fragile and somehow someone some day really overtightened it. That`s exactly the same ac pipe i broke on mine and have no ac whatsoever. I really need that pipe and must remove it from the condenser.

Ideas on how to do that?

I tried pliers, wrenches, torch etc nothing helped, maybe there is a miracle magic solution of liquids out there?
It may need a soak in some serious chemical to release the bond. it is the pipe that starts at firewall and runs besides the turbo area and arrives to the ac condenser.....there it got stuck.

And here`s the video that has to be the last video for now of it running until it gets reassembled again.

It is responsive, peppy, starts well without any cranking even when cold, holds rpms and runs smooth on all cylinders, smokes very minimal. I ended up not checking the timing today so we dont know what it is set to...

turbo spools great and engine sounds healthy but time will tell if that`s the case.

In the video there are bad sounds, one is the low pressure inline pump ticking and there is the disconnected piping for the oil cooler behind the intake manifold and it gets hitting on the manifold which is annoying to hear.
Also a loose exhaust clamp is making extra rattleing noise sitting on the end of the pipe:)

Here`s video from today:

1
https://youtu.be/5PdQMWBxDD0

2
https://youtu.be/1IGnSnBq4K4

Time to sleep.

If I had a sandblaster...wow... Long day here with the d24T
 

There was some or little progress because the manifolds were soaking in diesel then I had to manually clear up the intake from the oil that was inside. It took a lot of work... the lung cancer is fixed now. I used a strong but flexible handle toothbrush attached to a stick and tried to reach in everywhere through the 8 holes available.

The plan is to machine sand it down later to create a surface that looks nicer and would be much easier to keep clean once the engine gets in a car. The factory could have done a much better job at finishing surfaces on these.
Even inside the cylinder head they left huge mold-chunks and weird edges all over the tunnels. Crazy.

The engine needs to dry before manifolds and gaskets can get back up again...at least I win some time to deal with checking and cleaning the turbo, the oil cooler, intake piping and etc.

I'll I think take off the EGR mushroom and seal the exhaust manifold. I'm just afraid of those 2 studs bc I always managed to either strip the threads or brake them off. Maybe I should leave them alone and deal with it later. Intake dated 02.27.1985.

Another post to attach 5 more picts
 

So the engine accessories came off, including the b...tch oil cooler assembly. All waiting to be cleaned up, some for a coat of paint or checkups.

For the oilcooler main oring at the body of the engine, under the 32mm nut, shall I get a new one? What about the turbo piping where the large cotterpin is? Thanks.

The engine was super oily and dirty on the manifold side.
I noticed that one of the exhaust gaskets were not fully seated.

I added diesel fuel in a spraycan and after removing everything I soaked it well abd started the hr long scrubbing with brushes etc.
Even had to use screwdrivers to loosen up dirt in the tight corners. Found rocks and leaves etc behind and above the intake manifold.

After 2 huge and long scrubbing sessions using diesel, I wiped it off and used brake cleaner then started again.
Then dishsoap liquid then 99% alcohol many times. Then (t)aped it and made it ready to receive some 2+1 layers of engine enamel primer then 2+1 coats of paint I described earlier as Rustoleum farm equipm green. I like this tone and decided to have it again. Took long hrs and all dobe by hand. Except wirewheeling that was also some few hrs of work with several profiles of wirewheels (ports taped!). And about 6 large batteries worth of spinning. Sandblasting? Not here... :(
Was really down to bare metal to do it right.


Before this project the factory green was showing at two spots.

Theres a million tight corners and they need you unless you like rust for later. Oily goo is stuck in the very corners and had to fight it off everywhere.

Cheers

Some rainbow shots and the end of the day.
 

Today it all dried slower due to weather so I had to have a very long day. Cleaning and preps are real bitch.

I cleaned the idiotic oilcooler mount then I only had two "projects":

Prepared the exhaust manifold for paint (couldnt find the black VHT high heat stuff so I used silver VHT high heat stuff... I prefer them in darker color so it will get resprayed. IDK what their color is coming from factory BTW. Anyone knows? :) lets see who had a 0mile td brick in the 80s...?:D
Interestingly this one has a crack at the very same location as my other d24t does. Bottom lip where it is skinny metal.

Same for the valve cover which I decided to have in somewhat glossy high heat black enamel, also later on I will be ordering a new grommet for the top (and a long list of parts).

It's nice that for some reason on this particular engine both were in very good condition. Made life easier... And Mr Wirewheel was the best friend again

That's how I dealt with the bad design EGR mushroom.... didnt have the patience dealing with that tight angle and horrific corrosion so I chopped it off.
I have leftover new studs from previous exhaust/turbo area nightmares on other d24s and I will make a blockoff plate with *copper nuts LOL. That's it.

High heat 500F paint suggested if want it to last. Ask me how I know:)
 

Less and less rust is good news around this survivor engine.

5pics Monday
 

Started sanding the intake but didn't have much patience; decided to finish up the pump side instead (makes no sense :) )

Hours of soaking, scrubbing, sanding, wirewheeling, etc.


Replacing the oil dipstick tube o-rings, top inside tube and bottom one inside block.


Still need to get the pump brackets off too and get them cleaned up.

Each injectors are wearing a finger of a pandemic rubber glove and a cap. Bus bars came off and I also cleaned the outside of the cylinder head, filed off some imperfections and touched it up.

Then wiped the block super clean and prepared it for the enamel primer. It is receiving the farm green color today no matter how late im gonna have to stay up...
and then, finally, the engine paint project will be done...I will then let it cure for multiple days until I get other things cleaned and set up; and prep gaskets, a pump belt etc.

Pump side of the engine cleared off and done today
 

Primer layers are on now and i am going outside to spray the green soon.

In the meantime the wagon is eyeballing the engine :'))))))

Wednesday already?!
 

Another day passed,

another day on the Volvo stuff...

unfortunately my girl is probably totally fed up
with all this bricking and it is very hard for me to explain it to her
what this dieseling really means to me.
Sometime around 1990 there was a 78 244 2.1 then an 84 d24 244 that started it all and there were bricks and diesels around ever since, VW Golf-s, LT, Volvos etc. Dealing with these cars and engines bring back precious memories and provide joy (not always) and they serve as physical&brain activity too.


So today I continued disassembly (or assembly? :) ? IDK ) of the d24t that came from the donor 744.

It is actually the perfect pandemic project, well, one of the hundred :)


Started again playing around the intake manifold and managed to find the power sander to help me out. After doing half of it I gave up. Freaking Volvo should have polished that damn intake at the factory, such a shame they didnt think of it. :)


On the injector side of the engine,

I took off the taping from bolt heads and cylinder heads.

Cleaned and reinstalled the oil pressure sensor with a new copper washer.

Checked the new o-ring fitment on the dipstick bottom and removed the old oring (was rock hard and broke into 6 pieces as soon as I touched it).

PART 2 Wednesday, parts wash, painting, assembly disassembly combo
 

Several engine other parts again have been removed and soaked, scrubbed, cleaned, sanded, prepared, all properly primered & painted.

Not all of these colors match with the factory/stock colors so no offense.

I did what I thought will look good and harmonize with the rest of the engine. I simply copied what I usually did with other d24s because they came out good and most of the time I happened to like them afterwards.



The oil dipstick tube - semi gloss black enamel

Throttle spool bracket on injection pump - semi gloss black enamel

Vacuum pump - Light silver wheel/rim paint high heat enamel

Joint piping below intake manifold- light silver rim paint enamel (same as above)

Coolant long metal piping that runs behind the intake manifold- semi gloss high heat black

Oil cooler housing - not painted but polished (thinking of a layer of high heat clearcoat but I will leave it as is for now)

The pump side of the engine:



For the removal of the injection pump and its brackets,

I had to gently torch the two large bolts that are hidden behing the inj pump, there was no other way because they felt totally stuck and corroded.

I made sure to keep all heat away from the pump and the nearly inaccessible bolts finally gave in and loosened.

Then I found my Volvo tool for the removal of the injection pump sprocket rear gearing and it worked like a charm. No, I didnt lose the woodruff key. :) `Almost doesnt count`.



these are the colors I used after the 2+1 coats of primer dried:



Throttle linkage - glossy black

Inj pump large bracket and small bracket part- glossy black higher heat tolerance enamel

Inj pump sprocket- semi gloss (satin) black enamel


INJECTION PUMP - green color that is called Satin OLIVE made by Rustoleum.

It is a very nice color in my opinion and I was happy to randomly find such color on my shelf.
((I recall using it on the Husquarna 450 dirtbike and it looked really great bc we did camouflage and this was part of the color-combo setup.))

So, the injection pump is now `matchy-matchy` with the rest of the block
which is Farm Equipment green, almost like the color of a John Deere tractor. These two greens go well and the black brackets will normalize the look into something good because the valve cover is also black now. I also wanted the exh manifold black but couldnt find high heat black on my shelf. And since the silver high heat coat has been baked already, I may just leave it silver now.


d24s are tractors afterall, arent they?:)



After a few layers of the olive, the pump assembly received 3 coats of high heat tolerance clear enamel to make it stand up better to the heat and possible leaks in the area. If any...


About pump fuel leaks.


I have the full reseal kit for the injection pump but I decided to not do anything to it, at all, because this pump appears to be rebuilt by a reputable diesel shop and I havent noticed any leaks when I ran the engine on the stand, also there was no evidence of pump leaks visible anywhere.
So that`s good news.

I also have the 12mm pump head that I bought from one of the professional dieselbrickers via this forum but I decided to not mess with this pump unless necessary later.

Even the cold start device works on this pump and car still had the intact egr setup as well.

So the pump hasnt been opened up
because I didnt want to complicate things and end up with another to-do project. For the time of spraying, all openings had been tightly sealed, used alu foil plus plugs, blue tape and other ways to plug holes such as the unused egr holes, threads, rubber boot, and to save the rebuild info I stickered up their label and also taped off the Bosch manufactuer pump info tab. The only hose that got overspray is the one I want to replace anyway (return side).



Maybe if I had more time and only the pump to deal with, I`d attempt to reseal it if it was necessary but it isnt.
I have enough stuff to do already, it`s been over a week on this engine, many hours every day.


The paint will cure for several days from now on, but soon there will be an engine assembly with the fresher looking AND NOW CLEAN parts.

Everything in the garage is filthy dirty from this d24t alone and let me tell ya this engine wasnt even as dirty as most of them are.
Donor car didnt even have active leaks for example (except valve cover that generously oiled everything below.

IP didn`t get opened up today and won`t be
 

Pump pictures with olive green color :)

also assembled the timing belt covers
 

The little metal holders soaked 2days in diesel bc they were rusty, then scrubbed them off with a toothbrush. :eek:

The rubber linings cleaned up and softened up using Tire Foam. I added a little bit of (sprayed) silicone grease before putting them on the sharp edges of the cover.

The two center grommets got ArmorAll and slipped right back in after a cleanup. ;)

They look so good, totally minty! :) Pictures arent too good but in real life it is a nice result. :rolleyes:

D24 will be happy.

Today`s summary
 

Thursday for Turbo

I had to deal with lots of tight and corroded bolts and nuts today
but managed to get the turbo off and all apart.

I also added clearcoat on some parts that had been painted earlier.


Parts that I would need to find and buy somehow:

-large round gasket that goes on the edge of the turbine housing.

-metal gasket under the cover plate

-maybe new studs and *definitely new bolts

-2 small hoses for the turbo --- ??STILL AVAILABLE?? or can I use any kind of heat&oil tolerant turbo hose sections that fit?

(-maybe also the gasket that goes on the `front` piping where the large cotter pin goes in front of the turbo)


Maybe a Garrett T3 turbo rebuild kit would have all of these in one package?


The 3 hold-down metal strips and their bolts are in very good condition, I wouldn`t need those.


Question:

I found a couple of tiny hairline cracks and wondering if it will be holding okay for some time?
It is probably typical so let me know please if you have an idea.

(For now, I sanded it just a little bit, using a very very fine sandpaper, by hand; because the surface where the `cracks` were felt not completely smooth to the touch)

I ran out of the 2000F high heat black exhaust paint so for now it is silver but I`ll add two black coats tomorrow or actually the day after.


PS.
The metal gasket has 5-6 cracks that could split if I applied pressure by fingers. Still available?? (gasket below wastegate, held by 4 nuts and a cover)

turbo, part 2
 

So for now this is finally how it looks.

The inside is also cleaned and checked. The oil passages will be blown through later tomorrow but they got the wd40 flush treatment already.

You're making a lot of fast progress, looks great!

Maybe you already said this, but what are your plans for using the engine?

Hi V8volvo,
If the engine has no overheat issues and if it runs good then ideally it would eventually drop in a clean wagon if found.
You can see in the videos where it runs that there was some vapor coming out of the thermostat housing so I have to verify first that the head gasket is okay.

It`s a nice pandemic project and hopefully soon I`ll have a cooling system built for it so I could run it a little longer and diagnose things.

I should measure compression too once the engine gets back together. The valves are fine and hoping there is no hg issues on the road.


ALSO, if for any reason my d24t in the car craps out or needs a big overhaul then i`d have a backup plan by using this engine.


Hopefully the wagon you put together will hold just fine for many years to come though.


It just pulled a heavy trailer with the donor car stuff and a huge amount of tools on it through the mountains and for hundreds of miles And in hot weather so that`s promising news.

I am trying to keep it in top shape!

I HAVE TONS OF QUESTIONS BUT UNFORTUNATELY THE FORUM IS SO `DEAD` THESE DAYS.

Sounds like a fun plan, after what you have done to it, it will look sharp wherever it goes, even if it's just on an engine stand for a while. :D

I don't think it's that dead, really. It's true that sometimes we go a few days or a week without much discussion on here (that may just be because everyone's cars are running with no problems during that time :p). But when a question does get asked, even today there is still an active conversation that occurs in response to it. There are a number of helpful and knowledgeable members -- including yourself -- who do a great job about making sure people find the info they need when they need it. I think that's the bottom line qualification for a well functioning forum. Clearly when members want to talk to each other on here they still do so, successfully. We all hope that continues to be true into the future. :)

Back to your project, again kudos, looks like a satisfying outcome so far. I see you had a few questions in there too, maybe will get into those a little tomorrow if there are some where I have any idea.

TGIF- thanks god it`s Volvo Friday!
 

Thank you for the nice words and many special thanks for taking the time to try to answer some of my questions in the future.


Today again was a little busy around the d24t engine but there was some good progress in the end.

The day started by me trying to find the article that goes thru step by step how to reseal the VE injection pump that our cars have.
I found it, available online.
Such a beautifully edited, creative, smart, useful, well made article; million thank yous and much much respect goes out to Tom B who perpormed the `horribly` well detailed job and uploaded such a well-writen write-up for us and for later generations to use.

What an amazingly professional job, how nice it is to know we have someone who knows what to do with the hundred of parts that lay inside this sometimes problematic injection pump!! Very happy to read this article every time I open it. The pump refurb job seems more and more `doable` each time... but ... I`d never in a hundred years would attempt to play around the full refurb because it is such a huge project... and skills and knowledge and experience are all equally important for best results. Also special tools and superb creativity. If I ever need a rebuild, my pump ships North to Tom, for sure.

In his article I can see a nice factory tool for removing the shaft seal from the rear of the pump. I had to search for it in my d24 toolboxes and I found it, also found a Bosch bag with 3 seals in it, lots of o-rings labeled for d24t on the blue/white retro Volvo stickers, and a full ve pump reseal kit and some misc pump orings all labeled.

I was glad. I went out to the garage and started eyeballing the pump but decided to NOT use the tool to remove that seal bc

-pump doesnt leak
-pump was overhauled by a good shop
-also the Bosch seals did look quite different from what I can see in the pump I have here.
The Bosch ones I have do not have a rubber coating on the entire face and they are green not red as the one in my pump is.
At least they measured the same so i could have done it I think but again decided to not do it because I didnt want to end up stuck with something that didnt need a fix then `broke down`. The Murphy`s Law would have or could have provided me with some trouble...

I wanted to redo the rear shaft seal, BECAUSE when I got this engine, first thing I saw was that the rear belt was way too tight, and that is definitely not good for the pump seal there so I wanted to at least redo that seal. Next time... not today...

SO,


I decided to go forward with installing the pump on the engine instead
and finish up the entire pump side of the engine,
meaning installing everything that goes/is on the driver side of the d24t motor.

Then I realized I need a black high heat paint for the turbo and for the previously silver-painted exhaust manifold so I rode the Shadow to Autoz.ne and also loaded up some 8 bottles of brake cleaners. Sprayed the parts and...

...Installation of accessories then started...

I love it that the IP brackets are glossy black. It separates the farm green from the olive and creates a nice tone with the valve cover.

I cleaned out all holes, threads on the engine and applied some grease on the bolts
and set the large bracket up on the engine and placed the satin olive injection pump into its home

and stared at it for a while. I have to say: I loved it. :)
I think it came out awesome.

I installed the now black throttle linkage but first I had to assemble the annoyingly springy throttle spool and place it onto the bracket then get it all up on the IP, set it right and lube it up in the meantime. I made sure the rear pump belt was not overly tight, a happy belt is not tight over there. I have the Volvo belt tool but went with the `feel` of tightness and it will be totally fine. If this belt skips a tooth or breaks, there is no engine damage (but that`s not true for the front timing belt!).

Not so smart, I installed the inj pump on the engine but DID NOT put the bus bars up on the glowplugs, ughhh.
Anyway. I did it later and learned the hard way. I am not afraid of doing the 6 glowplugs now anymore, because I went thru the tight-space-process at least 6-7 times this week only lol.

Injection pump installation and timing the pump
 

If you go read the `Sticky` on this forum, you`ll see a very nice method of setting the timing in a special way that is much easier than following the Greenbook Volvo manual on the pump timing process. I have it printed out since years ago and it`s placed into my `repair folder` which is basically the Greenbook printed out plus other major advice printed out mostly from this forum. This way I don`t have to oil up my nice d24 books every time I have a project.

I really like the method but I couldn`t manage to get it to the values I wanted so I decided to go ahead and follow up what the greenbook said and did it that way which gave me a very good approximate value which I finished up to perfection by using the smart method from the `Sticky`.

I turned the engine over by hand multiple times before I set the timing and also rechecked the timing afterwards about 5 times.
I wanted to set it to 0.95 but it `landed` to .94 which is fine for now, I can always readjust it.

Then I installed the cleaned and repainted vacumpump (don`t forget to include the plunger and remember its orientation!) and added also the hard fuel lines, the filter housing and bracket, a nice Bosch filter, the fuel in/out hoses around the pump, injector return lines, put back the bolt into the pump where the dial gauge runs in (dont lose the washer!),

and THEN (and only then, idk WHY):

Yeah right... the $#@$% glowplug connectors... so now add the bus bars you stup!d! :))) I should have done it earlier (before getting IP on engine!!) so I deserved struggleing again one more time... LOL

I had to redo the heat shrink tubing protection for the rear bus bar (done it a few days ago but). When I used the torch on the bolts behind the inj pump to remove the large bracket, I tried to keep all heat away from the pump and didnt realize I burnt thru one of the inj return lines and melted off the sleeve from the bus bar behind inj 5-6. No biggie... at least I kept the heat AWAY from the injection pump, right?! Yeah

Manifold side of the engine...
 

Now that the driver side of the engine is loaded up,

it`s high time to continue with the passenger side of the motor.



When the pump got timed, I decided to remove the valve cover not just to confirm cylinder 1 TDC but to inspect and clean the reusable valve cover gasket. And the top of the head wiped off, gasket will seat/seal nicely.

I made sure all studs are in place and tight. This is very important to check because sometimes the valve cover studs dont seat well and are loose which is def not good for you and it will lead to a leak you won`t even find unless you trace very well and check everything again.

When the valve cover is off, always check these studs before setting the gasket back in place.
I cleaned my gasket and took pictures of the part # in its corner. Made by VW Audi, wow.
I thought it was a Goetze gasket.

I used new nuts, the ones that hold the long metal strips down; then followed the tightening sequence and torqued them to specs in 3 stages and then took picture :)) (of the cleanest d24t I`ve seen in a long time)

:) for now it is clean, right? :)


THEN,

wiped the manifold side of the cyl head with several different type of solvents, making sure nothing gets on the fresh paint I sprayed on the towels and used 1 finger only to wipe all dirt off the head.
Looks good!


I couldnt find my ziplock bag with the new exhaust manifold gaskets... so
I continued taking pictures and put the tools away and cleaned up the lot of mess I created all day.


I installed the front timing cover, lower and top, cleaned a little bit again inside the intake ports and sealed it all back down using blue tape, just for the night.


The turbo needs assembly tomorrow, exh and intake manifold gaskets found (new), all bolts that are soaking in diesel/atf/acetone must get cleaned up and dried, greased, then assembly.

I`ll need to use gasketmaker between the intake and the tube below but that`s fine.

Add the starter too tomorrow and connect the motor oil pipings, the turbo hoses etc.



Also I`d like to check whether or not the wastegate valve opens, at all.

question:

What is the suggested value for this valve to open?
I am guessing the wastegate is adjustable by the allen that is on the valve itself? Thanks for advice.

question 2

how to set the boost pressure valve on the intake, the one at the front? I mean, how to figure out what`s best for my engine? I know it is set by a screwdriver, at the front. clockwise would increase, right?

esp now that the gunk and oil got cleaned out of the intake and etc, it will count a lot as a change for how it runs ... and might change previous setups so I`d like to know how to synchronize it all and confirm I have the right adjustments that`s best for the engine (stock, no mods, no mls, no headstuds or idk, no tuned pump, no big injectors on this d24t)

Thanks,
to be continued...