Timing via pump fastenings and checking current timing
 

I am acquiring tomorrow a see saw gauge with various shafts etc from a local diesel specialist. This allows you to time ve pumps without taking much off apparently as it comes out sideways once screwed in and the clock locates on the opposite end. Probably a very pricey item once upon a time.

Before i go into t belt etc etc i suppose i should check the timing at least so i may attempt it this weekend.

I have seen videos timing with the pulley and videos using the pumps position. If mine is out is it ok general consensus wise to use the pump location to time? It looks alot easier to do.

Thanks
Mick

Please excuse that I have no idea what a see saw gauge with various shafts etc. is, and no idea how it is used to time the IP.

I time the IP using a dial indicator mounted on the extension shaft, rotating the rear camshaft pulley to achieve the desired setting. It makes sense to me, those are the tools available to me, and after practicing it a few times it is not particularly difficult nor time consuming.

Alternately, of course you can rotate the body of the IP instead of rotating the camshaft pulley. The main concern is to relieve stresses to the injector hardlines while moving the IP. Best to slightly loosen the hardlines at the IP distribution block before repositioning the IP.

To me, the hassle of loosening/retightening the hardlines alone (even with the special "flare nut style" wrench) makes the other method more appealing.

However, I will one-time reposition the IP outwards from the engine (more or less "permanently") to ease future R/R of #5 and 6 GPs.

Thanks, I do not have the tool for locking the rear pulley at present nor the torque adapter tool so the pump option appealed. This is all if its out anyway of course.

The see saw tool is just a normal set up with shafts etc but where your clock goes, a bar system attaches and then the clock locates on the other end thus offsetting the clock out from the pump shaft. The see saw is the nickname for the way the system transfers the reading to the opposite end on a pivot. I think its a bosch tool. Its all hypothetical yet though as it could still fowl on something yet and need the vac pump off haha

Mick

The tool and adapters :) He also gave me a huge extension for commercial lumps i will keep just incase

Pictures of the see saw above, there is sense in my ramblings haha :)

OK I saw the see-saw and see how it brings the dial indicator out to the side of the IP. Have you tried holding it into position to see if it will clear the hardlines, vac pump, and bracketry?

With a little ingenuity you should be able to fashion a pulley hold/rotation tool out of some angle iron and bolts, nuts, and maybe spacers.

The torque wrench adaptor is not really necessary for the 7xx/9xx series as there is more space at the firewall to use a common 17mm (i think?) box end wrench on the camshaft pulley nut. Forum member v8volvo likes to lightly oil the bolt threads and under the head of the bolt. Keep the pulley and camshaft end mating surfaces clean and dry.

We shall see but after a cursory glance, WOMP WOMP looks like it might not go unless there is a gap to exploit. I have normal extension shafts too so i can take the vac pump off and do it the traditional way if needed. Getting the time is the hardest job of all.

Mick

Probably easier than the see-saw would be just the standard rod and holder system, widely available. If you can find the long version (Volvo/Audi) style you can screw it right in without it interfering with anything at all. If you can only get the short version (intended for VW 4cyl diesel) you may need to only remove the vacuum pump for clearance.

As noted above, the method of timing by rotating the pump may "seem" easier than using the cam sprocket method at first glance, but once you have done it a few times, you realize it is actually far more work. Dealing with the fuel line connections, four pump fasteners that have to be repeatedly loosened and tightened with each timing setting attempt (of which one, the upper inner one with the inhex head, is quite difficult to access), etc, etc. Versus only one fastener (the rear cam bolt) that is easily manipulated, and lets you reach your desired timing setting usually on the first try since it is much more precise.

It sounds more tricky that way, but if you can get your technique figured out, you'll see the reason we all much prefer that method here. ;) The pulley holder tool, 9995199, is still easy to find and cheap from Volvo, so don't let that be an obstacle. You can also home-build a similar tool as ngoma suggested, OR use one of the many generic "sprocket buster" tools out there, which work just fine. Here is an example, many others exist: https://www.idparts.com/sprocket-pul...81-p-6247.html

However as you pointed out, the method of adjusting is secondary to getting a timing reading in the first place, that is certainly true.

Remember to disengage the cold start device and then rotate the engine a couple times afterwards prior to taking a timing reading attempt, otherwise it'll throw you off. We've all made that mistake before, in many cases more than once!