Been trying to work out the best and most cost effective way to change my cambelt, without laying out on the crankshaft tools, to lock the crank and to torque the main bolt to 332lbs/450nm

Ebay item 233558349051 could be a solution and no need to lock the crank to release or tighten the main bolt ........£60

In regards to the little bolts holding the balancer to the front pulley, I replaced mine only because I rounded a few off getting them out, as I don't think it had been removed in several years.

Where torquing the from bolt is concerned I would try and make a counter hold. Again this is something I made, unfortunately unable to get pictures of my tools yesterday as someone let me down at work so I had to work in the afternoon.

torque wrench , affordable BUT is it good, can it do the job?
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16558707553...3ABFBMiJuuzr1h


With the volvo 27mm crank nut tool, this should be able to handle it, right?

what torque wrenches do (did) you forumers successfully use?

How do you, would you (final-)torque properly a d24/d24t engine that is not in a car?


Engine stand doesn't seem to be too sturdy, not stable... actually not sturdy enough for such operation. Attachment points are also in question (and at risk?).

2.
 

or better get something like this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40412250382...Bk9SR6bJ3NC9YQ

t wrench website
https://www.protorquetools.com/1-2-d...wrench-130106/

Not familiar with any of those. I have heard the modern digital (strain gauge based) tq wrenches are a big step forward in quality from old clicker type. Supposedly easier to use, more consistent/accurate/reliable, and far less likely to drift out of adjustment with time/use and require recalibration. From what I hear there are many of them that are very good despite costing much less than the mechanical ones used to. But I am sure there are still good ones and bad ones out there like anything else.

It's also nice to be able to see a reading of the torque value so that you know when you're getting close and I think some of the digital ones provide you that. That is why I still only use my old beam-and-pointer type torque wrenches, even today. I think they are still considered the most accurate but are certainly the least comfortable to use.

I tried to torque the crank bolt on a D24T that was not in the car once. First I attempted it with the engine on a stand and someone trying to hold it -- of course that did not work at all and the engine nearly crashed to the floor. Then, as far as I remember, I hung the engine with a chain from a hoist, lowered it onto a pallet on the floor, and carefully built a system using supports (wood, jackstands, etc) to stabilize it in position, then used ratchet straps to lock it all down so it couldn't move. Even then it was very difficult to get it to stay in place for the final torque. The whole pallet wanted to tip up off the ground. Probably could have set some more weight on the edge of it to help hold it down. But it worked out, just took a lot of messing around and time.

The safest way is with the engine in the car, but that's not always practical I suppose.