No. :) Don't worry too much, it is all easy enough to solve and the car will be back to top form in the end, assuming the work is done successfully.

This is something that happens with age to all engines, simply due to the typical degradation effects of time on rubber material. It is expected and completely normal to have to renew these seals sooner or later. Most of us on here have experienced it, and once you get it handled, everything will be as good as new.

But it does sound like you are in need of a complete reseal of the injection pump at this point, rather than trying to patch leaks here and there.

You're right to be cautious about the process of getting the injection pump timing right when removing and reinstalling the pump, which will be required to fully reseal it. (Most of the seals can be done with it mounted on the engine, but not all.) However, the timing procedure is not rocket science and is a standard part of the timing belt replacement process as well. It's certainly good to be careful and smart about it, but not so much that you need to fear it or try to avoid it in a case like this where it is simply necessary. The trick is just getting the right person to do it, one who has the ability, equipment, information, and intention to do it right.

Who has done your timing belt replacements for you in the past? If you have a capable mechanic who handles those (and has the correct tools and has proven their ability to do the job successfully), then your best option will be to bring the car to them for this work. They can remove the IP, and then you can take it to a certified Bosch rebuilder, or send to Tom Bryant here in the US, or Diesel Bob in the UK or whomever you choose to reseal the pump and bench-calibrate it. Then your qualified mechanic can reinstall the renewed pump and get it timed correctly for you.

Finally, as ngoma mentioned in your other thread, you should be very careful to ensure that the heater hoses that run underneath the injection pump do not get damaged as a result of coming into contact with diesel fuel from the leaking pump, OR from the process of making repairs on it. Even small quantities of fuel will ruin the hoses if there is prolonged contact. That WILL lead to the hoses rupturing, which will quickly overheat and damage the engine.

If you are in any doubt about this, we can help you with replacing those hoses after you get the fuel leaks fixed. There are ways you can improve the routing of the hoses so that they avoid the possibility of fuel contact in the future. :)

Here may be another option: could you transport the entire vehicle to Diesel Bob, located near Manchester, if that is not too far from you? http://dieselbob.co.uk/index.aspx

They are well known around the world, even here in the US, as especially good experts in diesel injection pump overhaul -- and they also appear to offer full vehicle service if you can get the vehicle to them.

No doubt they would be able to successfully handle the resealing/rebuilding of the injection pump AND also the work of removing it and properly reinstalling it on the car, removing any question marks for you.

THANKS FOR ADVICE V8VOLVO i will see what the outcome of the discussion
with the garage on monday . tom bryant very helpful chap suggested i did the job myself . if i had seen and helped someone do the job i may have attempted it , but i feel the job is out of my scope as ive never done work on the pump other than change the cold start device , so will hope i get it sorted out soon ,
think i found the problem with air bubbles traveling up the clear pipe from the fuel filter , i fitted a genuine vw mann filter today and the air bubbles have stopped the filter i took off was given to me brand new .but i saw today it did not have the second rubber O ring around the screw on thread it had only been on 6 months ,
so lets hope we make progress next week
thanks again

Let me get this straight-- you took your D24 to diesel eningeers yesterday . they fitted new THROTTLE SHAFT and bush and seal . And then gave it back to you running worse than before?

well yes it seems that way NGOMA . the leak is still there i can see the drips now when engine is running .put my fingers under top of throttle shaft plate and its wet so got to be throttle shaft . i have the old one and brass bush . they said the new one comes with still bush . .
also car was bit smokey before it went to garage but now i don't think the cold start is coming on as the revs don't go up like before and settle down when engine is hot plus seems more smoke ,i suppose this will happen if cold start not coming on .
they don't know im going back in the morning so not good at the moment ,
just hope they can fix it!
thank you both ,and for the link to another diesel company its a bit away from my area about 80 miles .

Merged similar threads
 

Merged "Help Injection Pump Leak" thread with existing "Injection Pump Leak" thread as it was a continuation of the latter.

merged threads
 

yes sorry about that im a bit naive on forum workings
thanks to you both for reassurances

injection pump leak
 

just asking
what might the diesel man have done to make the cold start not come on ?
if thats the case seems that way at the moment!

Ooh that is a setback. Inspect closely before condemning the new work. Could the fuel be leaking from above? Possibly the flying saucer or its banjo fittings or air breather vent or this plug, almost directly above the throttle plate?

[photo again courtesy of Thom Bryant's excellent photo essay "Volvo D24T (Bosch VE) Injection Pump Re-Seal"] https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/201...-pump-re-seal/
https://thosbryant.files.wordpress.c.../dscf13011.jpg

First place I would look is at the tail end of the cold start activation cable. The stop fitting clamped onto the end is actually two pieces, keyed together so they can be rotated relative to each other to create slack in the cable necessary when timing the IP. Make sure it is not set to the slack position. NOTE: Only rotate the inner half. DO NOT change the position of the end that is clamped to the cable.

Second place to look is the ball stud on the throttle arm that the cold start lever pushes when activated (any time the engine is not warmed up). It may have been moved.
https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=2061