I was almost sure that 240s and 740s use different mounts
 

This site is listing this mount as a diesel mount for 240,260 AND 760 diesels!!? How come?
Is it the right one for my 85 d24t?
Thanks. btw, where to order a better quality one?
http://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/7...6&m=207&e=2137

I must have missed this one. Pretty slick, where can I get more information about this double mount arrangement?

look at the pic in post #10.:D

or

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...ighlight=mount

Interesting setup, but wonder what the effect of having the mounts oriented vertically rather than canted is. In the stock setup, with the solid rubber mounts, the front two are tipped towards the back and inward while the rear is tipped forward, for a kind of tripod setup. Changing one of the three legs to a vertical arrangement like this does, I think, would put those two rear mounts in shear and would allow the whole powertrain to shift backwards slightly -- that might have implications for NVH, driveline position, firewall clearance, etc.

The stock setup has the 3 mounts kind of balanced against each other; theoretically if all 3 are healthy this is kind of an engineered system, so altering one end of it affects the other two. Of course if all 3 mounts are tired then you don't have much to lose by changing it, but for the $10 that a new stock trans mount costs, I think just fixing what's broken and keeping the rest stock makes more sense...

This guy might also have originally put this setup together for a later turbo redblock 700, which uses vertically-pointed hydraulic mounts in front and wouldn't pose this difficulty... in such a case the double trans mount probably is a benefit vs whatever those cars have to begin with. In an early (-87 I think?) redblock MT car with canted solid mounts, or a diesel which also has that setup, IMHO this setup wouldn't be the greatest idea. However, might be interesting to try it in combination with a hydraulic motor mount setup off a later Euro diesel -- VADIS has the part #'s for the brackets... :cool:

$6 fix. Mount was on the fritz. VOLVO part cracked in half
 

New mount is in finally. Car idles smoother (=vibrates less), I like it, shifter inside isn`t shaking as much as it did before. I had the front wheels on ramps which I think helped me getting the right angle when lowering engine to get mount properly into gap.
Replacement Part # A2426 (Made in India)

Did you do just one side? And did you have to re-drill the aluminium mounting block?

Passenger side engine mount was ok
 

I checked the passenger side mount, it looked intact, so I left it alone.
The driver side one usually goes bad much earlier.
Mine was terribly worn.
Besides the two nuts securing the mount in its place, there are two holes drilled (not by me): one at the engine side, ON the removable bracket; the other hole is in the bottom area that the mount sits on (that part is welded onto the crossmember)
The rubber mount itself has a small pin (top and bottom too), those help align and secure the mount so it won`t turn/twist.
It was pretty straightforward to do, only one way in. No mods needed at all (drilling etc). Ipd bar wasn`t in the way, I was happy to not remove it. :)

I loosened all top nuts on the pass side (13mm), the bottom nut (17mm I guess) on the drivers side, only loosened the 3 bolts that hold the upper bracket to the engine, then safely slowly gently lifted motor, keeping an eye on engine compartment hoses/wiring etc. I had the front on two plastic ramps and the car parked at curb so it tilts to the right side, helping me get the best lifting/lowering angle. It went very smooth once engine got lifted, mount went up with engine, out of that gap, I grabbed the broken piece out, 3 top bolts out, removed old mount, cleaned the parts, put the new one in, then the bracket with mount went in, tightened bolts to engine then slowly lowered the engine, watching the mount achiving its proper position. I put the bottom nut back and fixed the pass side too. I put an emergency piece of wood between engine and xmember while it was in the `air`. Faulty jack, or, your dear neighbor parking.
There`s a safer way doing it but it worked fine.

I just don`t know why does the mount itself look like something is pulling it towards the rear of the car? I have to check the trany mount! but it was done not too long ago. well, idk why... maybe this aftermarket mount is too soft or something. Volvo mount looked more beefy, bigger too, but it was so deformed I can`t tell. I did not see metal plates on the new mount, ipd sells different ones. Let`s see how it handles vibration+weight.

Ps. It used to be tricky to put car into 1st gear at red lights. Also at leaving when car (tranny?) was cold. Test-drove yesterday, feels like it disappeared.

Is that okay? Upon closer (re-)inspection today, I have to say, it did not worsen. i`ll get the Volvo mount next time...

5yrs later
 

5years passed... Update:

I replaced the left side engine mount again.

Tranny mount is next bc the engine mount *again* isnt looking straight. Like something is pulling the unit towards the rear of the car (as v8volvo explained earlier)

Is it because these cheap mounts are worse than the Volvo ones? :) it isnt looking straight. It looks too soft