Injection timing will not be set if any of the timing belts have been off.
The dial indicator and holder that I purchased new a few years ago looks like it's no longer available. When I get some free time I will try to track one down..
8mm shank sounds right, but can't be for sure.

Any timing tool that says it works for VW IDI will be fine.

It is possible to R&R the pump and keep it in time if you keep the belt and pulleys mated.

If you don't have the tools, aligning the marks gets you close enough to start the engine in every case I've seen. I've also been 180* off, and got started, you cant get much worse than that.

745 TurboGreasel--thanks for the info. I wound up purchasing the above mentioned kit on eBay from El Paso Tools. First I called Baum Tools to confirm it was the right tool which it was. He quoted me a price of about $190 for the indicator and holder. I referenced the one on eBay and he looked it up and said the $65 on eBay was identical but he could match the price. He didn't car where I bought it, so I hit buy it now as it was the last one on eBay.

Update: I removed the injectors from the old head last night. They are now soaking in mineral spirits. Should I open them for inspection? I have no way of really testing them.

You need to be careful with the injectors, you don't want to get any debris inside of them, if your soaking them its likely that you will get dirt into them. At this point I would disassemble each one individually and clean them thoroughly with brake clean, re assemble and hope the injector bodies won't leak.

You can always have a shop pop test them for you. Before getting them pop tested I would look at the face of the injector nozzle where it seats with the heat shield, if you can see some erosion around the pintle, I would rebuild them.

There are a few members here that would gladly pop test them for you for free if you pay for shipping.

I have four never used rebuilt d24 injectors I can sell you ( you would need to get two more) I also have a set of six low mile rebuilt units that tested good also.

Whenever disconnecting the injector lines I like to close up the injector inlets. Since I have not been able to locate the appropriate plastic caps I use aluminum foil to cover them, pinched tightly into the threads. Same for the IP delivery valves.

Soaking the injectors in solvent doesn't seem like such a good idea. Too much chance for floating grit to find its way into the injector inlet. The exterior of the injector is not nearly so important to clean or keep clean. Solvent CAN help to clean (I like ultrasonic better) the interior components of the injectors AFTER you disassemble them, and maintain cleanroom standards. Oftentimes the sealing faces and discs need refacing (figure-8 patterns on fine-fine sandpaper on flat glass surface) but upon reassembly, keep all dust, fibers from a piece of thread from a rag, fingerprints*, etc. off the components!

DO try to avoid deforming the protruding pin of the nozzle pintle. Pretty fragile, and will deform if it gets knocked around.

Now I reread your post and see you have no way to test the injectors-- no reason to open them up, and lots of reasons not to.

Here is a good step-by-step to see what is involved:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?opt...d=20&Itemid=28

More details (not exactly our injectors):
http://dieselgenerators.tpub.com/TM-...400-350084.htm
"To check this fit, lift valve about one third of its length out of the body. The valve should slide down to its seat without aid when assembly is held at a 45 ngle."

This dropping the pintle into the nozzle when held at a 45deg angle so it slides home by its own weight business is sometimes hard to achieve (*fingerprints here will ruin your day)...

But it is one of the pieces of the puzzle necessary for a good-performing injector.

In the end you want:
1. Correct pop pressure (ideally equal across the injectors)
2. Good spray pattern
3. NO drips or seepage between injection events.

Probably the injector nozzles and IP fuel delivery piston are the highest tolerance machined items in your car.

OOPS!! Just got that sinking feeling...Bad idea to soak them.

Anders- I'll let you know about buying those units.

Ngoma-- Thanks for those excellent links and advice.

I got a handful of 'furniture caps' at my local ACE hardware. They are in the nuts and bolts section, and like a colored plastic vacuum fitting cap. Yellow and gray both fit injectors and delivery valves pretty well.

While cleaning up the "new" cylinder head I was checking the valves to see if they would hold brake parts cleaning fluid that I sprayed into the ports. A few of them were seeping, so I cleaned around the valves and seats with a wire brush, but still can't get a complete seal. I was hoping this would be a easy swap, but it looks like it's gonna be a lot more involved. My first thought is to scavenge the good valves off the old head or do I replace all valves (maybe have them ground?) and seats with new ones? The head is otherwise in good condition with minimal to no warping. The valves and seats look great as viewed from the combustion chamber.

Ok I was in denial. A valve job is in order. Minimally I will remove valves, inspect them, the seats, the guides and lap them or maybe send it all out to the shop. Can't see spending $600 or more on a valve job though.

the exhaust guides usually wear the fastest. Pretty sure Turbo uses sodium filled valves,and NA do not.