What parts to order for cylinder head installation?
 

I am putting on a new head for my motor and need someone to give me a bit of advice on what parts to choose and why?

I've heard of head gaskets made out of different materials etc.

I'm not listing off everything yet because I haven't chosen all the parts yet as I am still thinking what to add to the list.

The water pump and timing belt were replaced 10000 km ago so I won't be buying those now.

List:
1x Headgasket
2x Camshaft seals
12 x Valve stem seals / These had 2 options with inner hole of 7mm and 8mm?
Set of headbolts / Are there different kinds that are better for the head?

Before you get too far ahead of your skis--- (do they say this in Finland? Seems appropriate :p)

Do you have the Volvo Special Tools for properly dealing with the crankshaft damper bolt (MOST important), timing the camshaft, and timing the IP?

That should be Number One on your list. Do not proceed without!

To add, for after you resolve the above-mentioned question about tools :cool:

If you are not replacing timing belts as part of this job then your list has most everything needed. Only exception might be a valve cover gasket if your engine does not already have the one-piece neoprene rubber reusable gasket. The 4-piece cork and rubber sets are single use only. The 1-piece gasket is far better so if you need to buy anything that is the one you want. As you are probably aware you'll also need intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, as well as 6 new of the injector heatshield sealing washers that you are very familiar with by this point. ;)

Good chance to install fresh glow plugs while access is easy -- at least replace #5 and #6 with new Bosch DuraTerm. The front 4 are relatively easy to change later if you want to save the expense. Fresh overflow hose for the injectors is always good too.

Valve stem seals: not sure but IIRC the D24 series engines only ever got valves with 8mm stem. Around the late 90s VWs 4cyl diesel engines changed from 8mm down to 7mm (weight reduction I think?). Not sure if that ever happened for the 6cyl line though. It is possible that 7mm valves and guides could be retrofitted during a cyl head rebuild so that might be the only reason. Probably only way to really be certain would be to take it apart and measure. But, OTOH the valve stem seals are not common for leakage on these and might not be worth changing unless you are going the full distance and having the head fully redone with new guides as well (those are the more common wear area). If you are planning to just clean it up and bolt it on then the effort of disassembling the valve train to change the stem seals might not be worth it.

Headgasket: there are MLS (stainless steel layered) headgaskets available for the D24 that are more durable than the original composition type. In an ideal world the MLS gaskets are preferable. Here in North America the MLS type are very hard to come by these days, as our only source for those here was Volvo dealers which have stopped offering them. But availability may not be a problem for you in Europe where there are aftermarket sellers of the same part (Reinz/Elring?). MLS gasket does require a higher standard of cleanliness and finish quality on the cylinder head and block surface, but that is achievable, just be aware of it.

Head studs for these engines are available (ARP and Raceware market them here, maybe others as well where you are) at fairly high cost. They provide more consistent clamping force and arguably increase potential for holding up under big power increases on turbo engines. Arguably easier to work with as well during installation/alignment of head to block. Combination of head studs and MLS gasket is probably the most robust setup of all and probably worthwhile for those who are pushing the limits.

That said, the regular old style composition type gaskets and TTY bolts seem to hold up very well for most of us on stock or lightly turned up engines, PROVIDED the cooling system is maintained in good shape and the engine is not overheated. Head gasket failures are rare except in engines where they are provoked by overheating. So if that is what is affordable and accessible for you, then you can use it with confidence and expect good results as long as other basic care is done. The MLS gasket possibly, and the studs almost definitely, would be unnecessary cost and overkill in a NA motor.

If your engine has mechanical valve lash adjustment (shim discs on top of solid lifters), don't forget about getting hands on the tools and parts for that as well. :)

The lash clearance should best be checked on a stone cold engine AFTER the head has been bolted on and torqued so as to put the head in its final installed position and stresses. Seems like when we try to adjust valves with the head on the bench prior to install, you always have to go back and do it again after torquing the head down since things shift around a little bit inevitably.

Anyone know where to source (UK) the 6 mm cam cover studs ?? only need two or will just have to use two bolts

If you can't obtain the shoulder studs you can use long allen-head set screws with threadlocker. You would lose the limit to gasket oversqueeze that the shoulders provide but some would consider that an improvement. Just have to be more careful to not overtorque the cover nuts.

The shoulders are pretty nice for torque limiting though. I do think gasket life could be shortened if it gets overtightened.

What about trying in a junkyard? There were a million different vw audi vehicles that used these exact same shouldered studs on the valve cover. Not just diesels, but gas engines, 4cyl, 5cyl, etc. Any old VW Transporter, Jetta, Golf, etc will probably have them.

If you can find a donor vehicle, might as well grab a handful so you have some spares. :)

The Volvo PN for the shoulder stud is 1328034 but a search for that didn't turn up anything readily available.
There is a VW rocker cover stud on Brickwerks but I'm not sure it is correct: https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/stu...2-0-aircooled/
Like v8Volvo said the best bet might be a breakers but it would be good to know the dimensions of a complete stud before searching.

Thanks, as I only need two will probably use a couple of regular 6 mm studs and space them out on the right hand side of the head (highside)

So, I have ordered the green book, thanks again.

Thought I have done enough research to check and adjust the IP timing, but am wondering where I have gone wrong .....don't worry not adjusted anything yet

Have put my own TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley, corresponding to the V mark on the IP and the TDC mark on the flywheel firing on #1 (as per the loosening of the vacuum pump) Had to take the vp off in any case as the dial gauge extension is short

Having zero'd the dial on TDC and 1 on the small dial, on turning the engine round clockwise the dial turns 1.55 revs to just over 2.5 on the small dial

I was expecting just about 1 rev, what am I missing ???

The v on the IP looks slightly past the pump mark

I have released the grub screw to release the spacer on the cold start cable, leaving well alone the 10mm nut on the end. There was a fair degree of tension on the cable, so warmed up the front end of the unit where the two water hoses are connected with a light gas torch enough for the unit to warm up and release the tension and spacer

Think I have now realised where am going wrong

Getting the dial gauge zero'd at TDC #1 ......I then only need to turn the engine until the maximum reading is showing and no more

The first reading this way was just around 45 and adjusting the pump I have managed up to 83. If I am going things correctly, it seems to me the belt could be a whole tooth out as I am running out of adjustment at the pump.

So either need to slip the belt off the cam pulley, which I have seen done and gain another tooth or crack the cam pulley nut and do it properly, which would require adapting some tools .......luckily I bought an old oil cooled arc welder yesterday

All good fun ;-)