d24t parts
Looking for:
manual throttle spool cruise control module (or whatever hardware is necessary to make cruise work, I can figure out wiring/relays) altitude compensation switch (two spade connector unmarked box to left of GP relay) Thanks! Located in 10977 NY |
I have a pile of parts that I got with that 86 wagon. ill look and see what I have.
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I would rather replace the switch, but good to know it can be gotten rid of. Sometimes I find the car idling rough and have to play with the spades on that switch, which helps it clear up. So, if you have one I'd like to replace it. |
The excessive slack in the cable is usually due to the ball stud on the throttle arm being in an incorrect position, or the linkage rod between the spool assembly and the throttle arm is adjusted too long. The greenbook gives a good procedure on how to dial this in. If you don't find it, we can attempt an explanation here.
With the altitude switch, if fooling with those connections makes a noticeable difference in the way it runs, you want to bypass it for now, since it sounds like you've got some uncontrolled timing changes happening. Longer term leaving it that way or replace with a tested good switch both work. Happy to send you one in May when I will be in the location where those spares are stored. |
Thanks for the reply. The first step in adjusting the throttle afaik is to tighten the cable up until there is no slack. I did mess with the ball stud to try to get full travel of the throttle arm so I will look back into that and see if I can't get less slack in the cable.
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1 Attachment(s)
See the attached instructions.
These steps explain it well. The bottom line is that you want the high and low stops to be determined by the adjustment screws on the pump, not by the limits of the spool's rotation or the cable/pedal travel. You can achieve this using this procedure or whatever other methods work for you, but once it's done you should end up with minimal slack in the cable and reach low idle and full throttle stops on the pump without the spool or cable interfering. Makes a notable difference in driving characteristics to have it set right. :cool: Note that in step AX8 you want to adjust the position of the ball stud on the throttle arm, not the linkage rod's threaded adjustment. May move this discussion to a new thread and out of the FS section if no problem for you. |
Yes, that is the greenbook procedure I was referring to. Do you think it's still possible to set correctly when the cable cannot be made taught (step 1)
I will have to try again. Difficult to wrap my head around steps without the car in front of me. |
Thanks for that explanation. I will have to give it a shot again as the stops on the spool are acting as the rev limiter and idle stops, but after going through the procedure a few times I now have a good idea of how it works. I made the mistake of setting the fast idle in neutral, which is not the same as driving. By the time I had gotten it back to where it should be I had run out of light.
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I was able to properly adjust the throttle and it has picked up some responsiveness on the low end. Having the throttle stop on the fast idle screw is key, if not you're never opening the pump all the way. Thanks for that post. |
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