injection pump leak
 

well folks this is the 1st leak ive had on my injection pump in 20 years of ownership ,
the leak is at the back end just behind the round disc with 4 allen ket screws
theres a 10mm nut which the accelerator plate turns on diesel is coming up through the nut area and seeping down both sides of the injection pump
sorry about the detailed names of the parts im not familiar at the moment .
question is can it be fixed easy i have pinched the nut up a bit is this wrong the
accelerator cable plate still moves freely .
just hope someone can help
regards jim

Sorry your description doesn't ring a bell.

The top cover? But it has more than 4 allen head screws. Side cover maybe? Which side?

The accelerator runs down thru the top cover, a common place for a leak, there. Small o-ring seal.

In the meantime, PROTECT THE HEATER HOSES RUNNING UNDERNEATH THE IP FROM DRIPPING FUEL.

Otherwise the fuel will deteriorate the hoses and leave you with the high probability they will blow at a sooner than expected inopportune time. Instant overheat!

Priority number one.

injection pump leak
 

hi all , sorry for confusion !
i took car to a diesel engineers today . the leak appears to be in the throttle shaft they said . they want to fit new seal .new bush and new throttle shaft ,
so i said yes booked in for a week today . leak was bad first drive this morning but not as bad when i had been driving . won't be going far for a week now .

The throttle shaft seal is one of the common leaks I mentioned above (using your term "accelerator"). Almost always a new o-ring seal fixes it. Have never seen where it needed a new bushing, although is is possible if the throttle shaft has excessive play (slop). For it to need a new throttle shaft indicates that it must have been leaking a very long time.

If it's a good shop and technician, the reseal can be done with the IP still in place.

Wouldn't hurt the remind the tech to matchmark the throttle lever to the throttle shaft before he removes the lever, and:

PROTECT THE HEATER HOSES RUNNING UNDERNEATH THE IP FROM DRIPPING FUEL.

Here is a photo of the throttle shaft and its o-ring seal: (Thanks to
Tom Bryant, Wiscasset, Maine https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/)
https://thosbryant.files.wordpress.c...g?w=1024&h=768
from
https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/201...-pump-re-seal/

About 2/3 down, where he says: "Install a new o-ring on the “throttle” shaft:"

Here is another photo of it, getting ready to be installed into the top cover:
https://thosbryant.files.wordpress.c...g?w=1024&h=768



Fair warning: Often, the first IP leak to emerge is an early signal that others are on their way...

pump leak
 

thanks for your advice , the people who are fixing my pump leak are just diesel engineered so they should be good . your advice is very good but i cant say too much on how to do the job ,they will have done this repair before many times i think over the years . some one said its critical that the new shaft goes back in the correct position as it effects the running and starting of the car .
i have studied some of the photos on tom bryants web site and seen the shaft
with the tiny notches around it and 3 on the washer or bush as it enters the injection pump .

Good that is good indication that they are on top of it. :)

injection pump
 

hi Ngoma
just hope that they can fix the leak , without taking the pump off the car as you know the job becomes a lot bigger , my car give a good bit of smoke on start up now ive notice and a bit lumpy . but that could be down to that i still need to replace glow pugs 5 and 6 when weather picks up it still fire up 1st time and once its hot the engine sounds ok .there are plenty on Utube whereto engines are lumpy on start up so as these engine are old now some of it down to that maybe
regards jim

IP throttle shaft reseal with IP still mounted on engine has been done many times successfully in the past.

And at least one time unsuccessfully (by me). Inadvertently overly stressed the governor cage while attempting to keep it hooked up when manuvering the cover into position. Didn't fail immediately, but several months later the car stalled on the freeway, was difficult to restart, and would die above idle. The spring cage had broken.

I like the method Tom Bryant devised: a throttle shaft extension tool allowing better access and ability to make the internal connections. Keeps things better aligned and non-stressed when re-fitting the top cover.

hi Ngoma
i have been in touch with tom Bryant via email he's a really nice guy .
he offered to do all the seals on the pump if i shipped it to him ,
but at this moment i have the car booked in for 1 seal the task is great i have no skills to remove the pump . then get it back on the car and retimed
this is a job i will have to give a lot of thought to as im in the hands of the current diesel men at the moment as i said to tom if this job goes bad im at a loss no way to turn .
wish me luck i will need it

help diesel pump leak
 

hi all
well took my D24 to diesel eningeers yesterday . they fitted new THROTTLE SHAFT and bush and seal .
well went for a drive this morning and diesel leak is worse than before so im feeling down at the moment .
car started but a lot more smoke the cold start chock cable stop was not in the same position as its should be 10mm cable showing other side of the stop which travels in when engine is warm . so think that needs adjustment too .
also i see a lot air bubbles traveling up the clear plastic tube from the fuel filter
back to the top of the pump ,
do i have big problems with the car now ?
all comments appreciated .regards jim

No. :) Don't worry too much, it is all easy enough to solve and the car will be back to top form in the end, assuming the work is done successfully.

This is something that happens with age to all engines, simply due to the typical degradation effects of time on rubber material. It is expected and completely normal to have to renew these seals sooner or later. Most of us on here have experienced it, and once you get it handled, everything will be as good as new.

But it does sound like you are in need of a complete reseal of the injection pump at this point, rather than trying to patch leaks here and there.

You're right to be cautious about the process of getting the injection pump timing right when removing and reinstalling the pump, which will be required to fully reseal it. (Most of the seals can be done with it mounted on the engine, but not all.) However, the timing procedure is not rocket science and is a standard part of the timing belt replacement process as well. It's certainly good to be careful and smart about it, but not so much that you need to fear it or try to avoid it in a case like this where it is simply necessary. The trick is just getting the right person to do it, one who has the ability, equipment, information, and intention to do it right.

Who has done your timing belt replacements for you in the past? If you have a capable mechanic who handles those (and has the correct tools and has proven their ability to do the job successfully), then your best option will be to bring the car to them for this work. They can remove the IP, and then you can take it to a certified Bosch rebuilder, or send to Tom Bryant here in the US, or Diesel Bob in the UK or whomever you choose to reseal the pump and bench-calibrate it. Then your qualified mechanic can reinstall the renewed pump and get it timed correctly for you.

Finally, as ngoma mentioned in your other thread, you should be very careful to ensure that the heater hoses that run underneath the injection pump do not get damaged as a result of coming into contact with diesel fuel from the leaking pump, OR from the process of making repairs on it. Even small quantities of fuel will ruin the hoses if there is prolonged contact. That WILL lead to the hoses rupturing, which will quickly overheat and damage the engine.

If you are in any doubt about this, we can help you with replacing those hoses after you get the fuel leaks fixed. There are ways you can improve the routing of the hoses so that they avoid the possibility of fuel contact in the future. :)

Here may be another option: could you transport the entire vehicle to Diesel Bob, located near Manchester, if that is not too far from you? http://dieselbob.co.uk/index.aspx

They are well known around the world, even here in the US, as especially good experts in diesel injection pump overhaul -- and they also appear to offer full vehicle service if you can get the vehicle to them.

No doubt they would be able to successfully handle the resealing/rebuilding of the injection pump AND also the work of removing it and properly reinstalling it on the car, removing any question marks for you.

THANKS FOR ADVICE V8VOLVO i will see what the outcome of the discussion
with the garage on monday . tom bryant very helpful chap suggested i did the job myself . if i had seen and helped someone do the job i may have attempted it , but i feel the job is out of my scope as ive never done work on the pump other than change the cold start device , so will hope i get it sorted out soon ,
think i found the problem with air bubbles traveling up the clear pipe from the fuel filter , i fitted a genuine vw mann filter today and the air bubbles have stopped the filter i took off was given to me brand new .but i saw today it did not have the second rubber O ring around the screw on thread it had only been on 6 months ,
so lets hope we make progress next week
thanks again

Let me get this straight-- you took your D24 to diesel eningeers yesterday . they fitted new THROTTLE SHAFT and bush and seal . And then gave it back to you running worse than before?

well yes it seems that way NGOMA . the leak is still there i can see the drips now when engine is running .put my fingers under top of throttle shaft plate and its wet so got to be throttle shaft . i have the old one and brass bush . they said the new one comes with still bush . .
also car was bit smokey before it went to garage but now i don't think the cold start is coming on as the revs don't go up like before and settle down when engine is hot plus seems more smoke ,i suppose this will happen if cold start not coming on .
they don't know im going back in the morning so not good at the moment ,
just hope they can fix it!
thank you both ,and for the link to another diesel company its a bit away from my area about 80 miles .

Merged similar threads
 

Merged "Help Injection Pump Leak" thread with existing "Injection Pump Leak" thread as it was a continuation of the latter.

merged threads
 

yes sorry about that im a bit naive on forum workings
thanks to you both for reassurances

injection pump leak
 

just asking
what might the diesel man have done to make the cold start not come on ?
if thats the case seems that way at the moment!

Ooh that is a setback. Inspect closely before condemning the new work. Could the fuel be leaking from above? Possibly the flying saucer or its banjo fittings or air breather vent or this plug, almost directly above the throttle plate?

[photo again courtesy of Thom Bryant's excellent photo essay "Volvo D24T (Bosch VE) Injection Pump Re-Seal"] https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/201...-pump-re-seal/
https://thosbryant.files.wordpress.c.../dscf13011.jpg

First place I would look is at the tail end of the cold start activation cable. The stop fitting clamped onto the end is actually two pieces, keyed together so they can be rotated relative to each other to create slack in the cable necessary when timing the IP. Make sure it is not set to the slack position. NOTE: Only rotate the inner half. DO NOT change the position of the end that is clamped to the cable.

Second place to look is the ball stud on the throttle arm that the cold start lever pushes when activated (any time the engine is not warmed up). It may have been moved.
https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=2061

leak fixed?
 

hi all
well i got the car back but to late to check leak is ok they tell me all is ok now .
but driving home i noticed in low gear the auto was hesitant . then i noticed going up steep hill the car was staying in third gear i think never done that before . could the problem be anything to do with the adjustment they have made . i may be over thinking all this with whats gone on the garage said they had fixed the cold start tooset it up .
can there now be other issues going on cold start.kick down .gears change playing up , if so won't go back to that garage ,

It sounds like when they were working on the pump, they probably made some changes to the linkages that may have altered the kickdown cable adjustment and/or the relationship of the spool to the lever on the IP. Not a big deal, you can play with it and get it back to where you want it, if you wish. Or if you aren't bothered by the new behavior you can probably also live with it, as long as it's nothing crazy (no harsh shifts etc).

The linkages do have a lot of adjustment points so the easiest way to get them right is to just use the adjustment procedure in the Volvo factory manual ("greenbook"). Otherwise it can take a lot of fiddling and trial and error to get a setting you like.

We could send you some pictures of the manual pages that show how to do this if you want to give it a try. Otherwise you could try loosening the kickdown cable a little bit if you want (change the position of the nuts so that the sheath moves closer to the end of the cable). It sounds like from what you are saying the shifting is a little bit later than you are used to, which means that the kickdown cable has in effect been tightened up as a result of the work that was done.

However, be careful not to loosen that cable too much. You would rather have it too tight than too loose. If it's too loose then shifts will be too early AND too soft under acceleration, which can cause damage to the trans. Make adjustments in small increments if you make any at all, don't overdo it. ;)

Did they get the cold start device working normally again?

D24 update
 

hi
the cold start is back working no belching smoke on start up .and the leak is fixed hopefully will clean the area and keep a ey on it for a few days .
i have the green book i got one many years ago also got the update on the
D 24 TIC , which changes to cam belt set up ,injection pump set up changed from 0.90 0.95 . . EGR, catalytic converter.plus other changes!
the auto gear box up shift is noticeable in low gear about 2nd i think but is that ok on a 25 year old car 279000 miles i don't drive the car hard only a blow out now and then at 45mph upwards to clear the soot out .
so i will attempt to just the crimp so its back beside the 8mm threaded lock nuts adjustment hole ,

Good news, sounds like your guys got it straightened out and it sounds like you have all the info you need to adjust the kickdown and throttle linkage if you choose to. :)

injection pump latest
 

well folks yes the car is not leaking diesel and cold start working at correct
settings 750 when hot and 950 when cold ,but definitely loss of power when
going up hill the hill i use near my home been going up for 20 years in this car
i now can only get over 30mph with pedal to the floor if i drop into 3rd on auto box it pulls better and on the straight i got up to nearly 80 mph so power is there once im on the flat but builds up these cars were fast from 50mph in there day
so is this a simple fix or a trip back to the garage who did the job .some things never simple !
all comments welcome

Looks like it is bogging down in too high of a gear. Related to the AT kickdown cable dis-calibration you went thru last year?

What are the engine RPMs when you have pedal to the floor while climbing the hill? Pedal to the floor should immediately drop down one or (often) two gears and get you in the 2500 - 4000 RPM range, where the turbo is able to help the engine make some real power. Lots of noise & excitement! :D

Pretty gutless below 2000 RPM.

thanks for the input .
yes car does not seem to drop down climbing the hill now.
reves are 2300 rpm when climbing hill . if its kickdown problem is that a big job to set up . cold start was good this morning .my friend drove it up the hill this morning said it was not to bad . as it got power on the straight flat.
seems like we are heading back to the lockdown . but i do need a person who knows these set ups really well to look at things from a different angle to say
what he thinks ,!

if kick down is not coming on are we inside gearbox or is it possible to just the accelerator cable to make car kick down its running ok through the gears on the flat now

Actually before attempting to change the kickdown cable settings or worrying any more about the transmission's behavior, I would look again at the settings of the injection pump.

Based on the fact that we now know the engine is down on power, which we had not understood before when you first mentioned the transmission acting differently, I believe what you are noticing may not be related to the trans at all.

Lack of engine power (or changes in engine power curve) can sometimes confuse the driver into believing there is a transmission issue when in reality there is not. Since you have to push further into the pedal to get the power you need out of a doggy engine, it affects the transmission shift points/quality and can fool you into thinking the trans is acting up, when in reality it is only doing what you are asking of it with your foot, and the engine's misbehavior is the issue instead.

I once knew a guy who had an automatic transmission REBUILT at huge effort and expense in his TDI car because he believed it was "slipping" -- engine revved high with pedal to floor but car did not accelerate -- when in reality, the only issue was that the engine had a clogged fuel filter. :eek: :p The trans would kick down since the pedal was floored but the engine had no power at high revs so it acted just like a slipping gearbox, at least in his perception. Point is you have to be keen in your observations about what exactly the drivetrain is doing to catch subtle differences in symptoms and go in the right direction for a solution.

My recommendation for now would be to IGNORE the different behavior of the trans and FOCUS instead on why the engine seems to be down on power. From what you are saying, it sounds like it has a lot of lag and very soft power when initially starting out, but then once engine speed and turbo boost comes up it is OK. This can be a sign of the "smoke screw" (fueling quantity adjustment screw) on the IP not being turned in far enough. This gets changed when the throttle controls of the pump are being worked on, which is exactly what recently occurred on your engine. They may not have gotten the screw back in the right position.

Two questions to answer:

1) If you floor the accelerator taking off from a stop, do you see a puff of smoke from the exhaust? And does the car feel as strong launching as it used to?

2) Are you familiar with the "smoke screw" on the pump and its location? Would you be comfortable making some adjustments to it, if we give you guidance?

If the answer to 2 above is "no" then the best plan is probably to bring it back once more to the folks who did the work on the pump for you, and inform them that they may need to recheck the setting of the fuel quantity screw since the engine is down on power.

ALSO, when was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? And you are not seeing any air anymore in the inlet line from the filter to the injection pump, correct?

smoke screw
 

thanks for that post V8volvo . well you may be close to the issues i have . so last thing 1st i changed the fuel filter a few days ago for a VW MANN filter ,no air bubbles now ! when got the car back the plastic cover over the smoke screw was missing , they found it and put it back on ! so do they have to wind the screw off to release the throttle shaft? so they have to reposition it ,
your description seems right . so i woud be willing to try the slight adjustment of the smoke screw with your guidance ,
so i will go down the path of the auto box playing up , and see what the smoke screw path can do if im very careful with it,
good advice on what the wrong path can take you in time and costs the more advice we get we can make a better judgement hopefully
regards jim

Hills
 

Completely off-topic (sorry) ... BUT VERY IMPORTANT:

Be careful what you do in the mornings (even on a warm&sunny Summer morning)! I read words such as `coldstart`, `morning`, `RPM`, revs, `climbing a hill` etc.
I really hope that you normally start the car and let it idle for at least 10-15 minutes before climbing hills or getting on any road that has speed limits above 50KM/H. Raising RPM to 2300 soon after the diesel got coldstarted is NOT OKAY, also equally NOT OKAY even if you simply idled without the car moving. Not to mention attempting climbing a hill with a coldstarted diesel engine at 2300 RPM.
Maybe you missed telling us that you let it idle before taking it on that ``test``.

Driving these cars `hard` when cold, is recipe for serious trouble and recipe for very very premature wear internally and will affect major engine components.
A coldstarted diesel engine will not stay healthy for too long for those who drive their cold diesel too hard or simply too `early` (not waiting for it to warm up which usually takes 5-8miles of **gentle** low-RPM driving OR min 10-15mins of idling (often, even longer stationary idling itself won`t even warm up the car to operating temps), but all of this can vary based on temperatures, climate etc. )

Where I grew up we always go to the seller`s house when we buy his/her car and evaluate things before making decisions. Asking questions like how long he had the vehicle etc, how long had he lived at that location etc. Questions that help the buyer imagine what scenarios may have happened daily in the Winters (and honestly every season it happens). This includes learning what profession he has, how many cars he drives, how far from his house the closest major road is (higher speed limits with a cold engine?!!), also checking this: are there any substantial hills in the area en-route to that main road where he would need to drive the car through soon after the coldstart (because of cold climate mornings when an impatient owner can(=will) ruin a diesel engine, simply by climbing that hill with higher than normal RPMs, ruining the engine from the inside out... day by day, slowly but surely. It now may all sound like `ugh such an ocd diesel bug person` , but damage is guaranteed for the owners with bad habits.

I am sure you aren`t one of those bc you had this car for 279000 kilometers already.

I just felt like mentioning this for those who either never had a diesel and they have one now, and for those who don`t think much of what`s bad/best for their diesel car.

Wishing the best of luck to figure out what is wrong with your beloved Volvo.
I also put my bets on the injection pump being misadjusted or maybe a little worn by now. Would also get the injectors rebuilt by a Bosch professional, one future day. makes a huge difference but focus on resetting the IP to the best possible values and dont give up on your rare diesel Volvo.

On a side note, don`t let anyone touch the tranny, or at least not for now. Dealing with issues one by one is tons easier and it makes much more sense than changing multiple setups of several components at the same time, then not really knowing what mod resulted having a certain symptom(s).

There`s a high chance you will get things figured out soon AND you`ll have it running better than before. But if I listen to my heart I must say I personally don`t trust the competence of those who serviced the pump (*based on things you shared with us).

Agreed, yes, very good warning. OP understands this, but good to repeat it for others that may not.

Don't agree so much here, as diesel engine will not generate much heat when idling, especially from cold start. Need to work to generate heat. Excessive idling can cause its own problems, namely from Wet Stacking. We have discussed this here before. Better to drive it lightly immediately after the idle smooths out after cold start, progressively working it harder, waiting to boot it hard only after it has thoroughly evenly warmed up to operating temp.

Kind of what I am saying-- idling from cold start won't bring engine up to operating temps in a reasonable time, and runs the risk of creating other problems. So why confuse people?

hi red arrow
thanks for that comment. well the hill is half a mile from my house and its DOWN THE HILL when i leave home i so nothing to worry about there
. this is for all of you i messed with the ball stop lever that brings the cold stat on
yesterday . when the engine was hot im sorry it was wrong thing to do came out this morning to frosty weather and engine cold stat did not come on due to the position of the ball stop nut , its given out sunny today so i will let engine go cold and get it working again . hopefully . sorry again thanks for all your patience

Well said, agreed. :cool:

Yes exactly right, the smoke screw gets removed (or at least screwed a long ways out) in order to disassemble the top of the IP/throttle control system. So they would have had to do this during the service that was performed, and then they would have had to get it reinstalled to the same setting it had been.

Normally the way to do this, if one is working on the IP still installed on engine using "seat of the pants" methods, is to very carefully note the position angle of the smoke screw before disassembly, and then count the number of turns required to remove it from the pump upper section housing. Then one tries to reinstall it in exactly the same position and with the same number of turns, so as to have the system work as it did before.

(This is as opposed to the ideal scenario of bench calibration off the engine, where the pump settings could be configured precisely based on fueling/advance measurements.)

If the folks who worked on your pump didn't use this "count the turns" method, or didn't manage to get it just right, then it is very much possible that the setting is off from what was intended. Or even if they did use it, since there are new parts in the pump and there are lots of other little fine variables that can affect how the pump operates (eg minor changes in the installed position of the upper cover section onto the main pump body), it could still have resulted in a change in the relationship of accelerator position to injected fuel quantity.

All this to say, it would be a good idea to carefully experiment a little with the smoke screw and see if that can get the engine back to running like it did before. It sounds like you know where the smoke screw is on the pump, and how it works. You can try turning it inwards (clockwise) in small 1/8th turn increments (loosening and tightening the jam nut each time), then go for a drive after each change and see what the difference is in terms of response, power, transmission shift points, and exhaust smoke.

Your target with the adjustments is to improve throttle response and power, but not get to the point of excess exhaust smoke under load. If you floor the pedal from a stop and see a steady trail of dark smoke until the turbo boost rises, then you have turned it in too far. It's OK to have a small visible puff of smoke during the transient moment just as you snap the pedal to full load, but it should not do more than that and should clear up as soon as the car is in motion. That is the result you're looking for. Any kind of steady state operating condition should have completely clear exhaust. Excess visible smoke is wasted fuel, and causes very high exhaust and cylinder head temps and is hard on the engine. Don't be tempted to allow it to smoke, even if the power feels good. ;) If you see smoke, you can back the screw off until you get to the sweet spot.

Let us know how that goes. Also be aware that changing the setting of the smoke screw will also result in minor changes to the engine idle speed. After you reach a satisfactory setting for the smoke screw, you may need to then make some final adjustments to the idle stop screw and/or the turnbuckle type linkage rod from the throttle spool to throttle lever and/or the position of the ball stud on the throttle lever to bring the warm idle speed back down to specified range. If your adjustments to the smoke screw cause a big increase in idle RPM, then you will want to make those other adjustments before test-driving the car, so as not to damage the transmission by engaging a gear with the engine racing.

thanks for the information V8VOLVO yes i know where the fuel enrichment is .
i will see what i now think about adjusting that screw .
well latest news , i now have a very slight leak on the cold start at the bottom of where its bolted into the injection pump ,i take it that nut and cold start was removed the garage did say on a car that age and mileage that other leaks may occur i have spoken to garage they can do the job in a week , the leak is wetting the spring a bit and a bit wet on the pump moving on there is another small plate below that spring . SO SHOUD I TAKE IT BACKas i don't like to see any leaks a. but its only small .and hopefully they will fix the leak permanently as the cold start seals is a moving part on the pump it will wear out one day . he did say there are 2 seals on the cold start fitting 1 outer and 1 inner into the pump take it thats correct ,
regards jim

Not necessarily were they removed if the work that was previously done only involved the throttle shaft seal, that's a different area of the pump and the cold start lever/shaft probably would not have been touched.

More likely this latest leak is a coincidence, just caused by age and time same as the first leak, and maybe also by winter weather. Cold temps always make leaks like this worse since the old rubber is harder and more brittle. Wintertime is common season to see new leaks appear, sometimes many all at once, as seems to be happening for your pump. ;) As a matter of fact my 760 sedan also just sprung an injection pump leak a couple weeks ago during a stretch of cold weather.

Hence, the garage is right to tell you that other leaks may soon occur, as we have also mentioned here.

Correct in your last comment that there are two seals for the cold start area, one is a shaft seal similar to the throttle shaft seal, and the other is an O-ring sandwiched between the shaft housing cover plate and the main pump body. Both can leak and should be replaced if you have that area apart, although from your description the main leaker you have now is the smaller shaft seal. It *can* be done with the pump on the car, like the previous leak repair was, but....

As was noted earlier in the thread by a couple of us, at this point your best bet may be to get the pump pulled off the engine and completely resealed and recalibrated by a professional fuel injection service shop. You CAN continue to fix the leaks one at a time as they arise here and there, but doing it that way will be annoying and probably more costly, since you will continually be having to bring the car back for each new leak. Plus, there are also some seals on the pump that cannot be easily/safely accessed for replacement without removing the pump from engine, such as the one on the opposite side of the pump from the cold start area, the drive shaft seal, and the main head seal which can be the biggest leaker of all. And eventually those will give up too, since all the seals are the same age and obviously reaching end of their life. So you'll have to remove the pump from engine someday anyway. Best option probably to bite the bullet and have it all done in one shot, then you don't have to keep watching for and dealing with a continuing series of new leaks. And risking your heater hoses in the process. :cool:

In my experience, they never get better by themselves, only worse. Except only once, where it was leaking when ran on 100% biodiesel, got better after switching to D2. That was a lucky one.

cold start .diesel leak
 

hi just a thought if i was to buy the 2 seals from the diesel engineers ,woud it be safe for me to attempt to fix this latest leak myself bu taking nut of removing the cold start and spring , or is there something more complicated once i pull that from the pump . what do you think do you have any guidance then i can make a decision myself .
regards jim

Why not?

If you're looking for a warning, here's one:

Like the throttle plate, the cold start lever is on a splined shaft so mark their orientation to each other before you remove the lever so you can reassemble it to the proper position without guessing.

And here's where I will give you:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Another plug for Thom Bryant's great photo essay on resealing the Bosch VE IP:

https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/201...-pump-re-seal/

He goes into it in great detail and covers the important points. More even.

Review carefully the section on resealing the cold start lever and see if you are up to it. :)