Clutch replacement and part number search
 

This is a new thread following up from my "snapped camshaft at idle" thread that wandered from the camshaft to the clutch job. Original thread is here: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?p=6867#post6867

The clutch disk I used was from the Sachs clutch kit pictured below, the same kit that v8volvo used but is now very difficult to find. It's in the AutohausAZ kit part number 271265 (Sachs kit number K70029-03) with a Sachs pressure plate number 3082 204 032. There may be a specific Sachs part number for the disk printed on the side of the box below the 3082 204 032 number. The number just below that is 1851 901 134 (I need to verify this number as correct since it's hard to tell from the picture) and there's a few other numbers below that but they're covered by the Autohaus sticker. I'll pull that sticker and get the other part numbers. I'm thinking there's one for the throw-out bearing and one for the pilot bearing (which is the wrong bearing). The complete kit was $215 plus shipping. If I recall correctly the kit was listed under the 1983 Volvo 760, not under the 1985 Volvo 745.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2b7d8210.jpg

Here's a picture of the Sachs kit that shows all the part numbers of each item contained in the kit:

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7fa90a85.jpg

Here's a picture that shows the pressure plate part number in the above kit:

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...ps19395a9b.jpg

The disk that came in the kit is the one on the left in both of the following pictures. The disk on the right is from the O'Riely Power Torque kit mentioned below:
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...ps86fa128a.jpg

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4fd9e953.jpg

Here's pictures of the original pressure plate and the Sachs pressure plate that came in the kit:

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...psf7e8738d.jpg

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...psd5c62078.jpg

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...pse4e5ccc0.jpg

See my reference to the AutohausAZ kit above. I don't know what the separate part number for the disk is yet.

Then, about the clutch test. I did not have anyone watching both rear wheels and I didn't push the brake pedal REAL hard so it may just have been that I wasn't putting enough pressure on the pedal to fully stop the rear axle from turning. Your description sounds like that's what was happening. When I drove my 30 mile test it all seemed fine but I'll do a more thorough test drive this weekend.

I'll re-do my test and have someone watch both rear wheels so I know exactly what's happening.

You can see the clutch kit above that I used so I'm thinking it's just an incorrect test I performed.

That burnt clutch disk was the one I took out of my "new" 1983 745 which had 203,000 miles on it and the used car store I bought it from had purchased it from a guy in San Francisco. Based on my pictures of the throw-out bearing and wear on the original pressure plate spring contact point I would say that clutch got used a lot.

About the red powered metal....I'm not sure. I think it's just a mixture of clutch disk dust and flywheel/pressure plate dust combined with the Bay Area moisture.

My list of clutch kit part numbers
 

Before finally ending up with the AutohausAZ kit 271265 (Sachs kit K70029-03) I ordered several different kits that probably would have worked but didn't have the same clutch disk with the extra spring set.

Autozone kit number NU31153 would have worked. They also had a kit number NU31153-1 that looked like it had the correct disk but I had already received the AutohausAZ kit by that time. I would definitely try Autozone for this kit. It's a Duralast product. If you look at a picture of this disk here: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=245009_0_0_ it looks like it will fit around the two flywheel pins shown below. The Sachs pressure plate had to be ground a little to fit around the pins.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7822060a.jpg

O'Riely has a kit K70029-02 that also would have worked but it had the disk without the extra spring set. It was a PTQ, Power Torque kit with the AP pressure plate and the PHC Valeo disk. I didn't check to see if they had the K70029-03 kit with the proper disk. Here's a picture of that kit:
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...pse729875c.jpg

Rock Auto has 2 remaining K70029-03 kits available right now.

There's also a few of the K70029-03 kits on eBay right now.

None of these kits have the correct pilot bearing but look at the linked thread in the first post here for that discussion and part number.

It would also be helpful to have a part number for the sleeve that goes over the transmission shaft that then fits into the pilot bearing, pictured here:
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/...ps97bab231.jpg

The bottom line is that the original clutch disk with the extra spring set was hard to find. With the above known kit numbers it should be a lot easier. I will get the part number from underneath the AutohausAZ sticker to see if there's a separate part number for the disk only.

Clutch materiel is black.
That red is usually unlubed wear, like if you run a CV 2 years after the boot breaks.

I think that shop was probably doing terrible work.

I can do part numbers.
 

If you want to call me Monday I will get your part numbers and possibly get you the right parts. I own and operate a shop in Clarksville TN. We also sell parts.

I'm Dennis. My cell# is (931) 801-2596

Thanks for the extensive info. :)

Looks like all of them come with the wrong pilot brg.... The gasser type bearing is pictured, and it was what I also found in the last 271265 Sachs kit I got. Too bad about that. Looks like the Sachs kit has the right disc but the cover looks quite different from the original -- the fact that it had to be modified to fit over the dowels on the flywheel makes me wonder if it is a gasser cover that they throw into the diesel kit, like with the pilot. Were there any other fitment or operation issues putting it in?

The Sachs number on the OE disc I took out of the car I'm working on (also an '85 wagon) is 18.1861 901 104, similar to but slightly different from the 1851 901 134 you pictured on the 271265 kit box, maybe they updated the disc or the linings slightly, in either case I suspect you are right that that is a good number for the disc. However, using this number, or using any of the *three* Volvo part numbers I have for the disc alone (1220942, 1377326, 3549535), I'm not able to find the disc available by itself. Might just get this one re-lined since the cover and TO bearing are in good shape.

Link to eBay listed kit
 

Here's a link to what should be the correct "non-Sachs" kit NU31153-1.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390515507291...84.m1423.l2649

Getting ready here for my big summer (Volvo) project: Replacing the clutch/pressure plate, etc. Ordered the Sachs K70029-03, same P/N as described above. Will finally be happy to be rid of the stuttering on takeoff!

Nevadan, other than modifying the PP to accommodate the two flywheel dowels, did you have to make any other modifications? I watched someone renew their clutch/PP (not sure of brand or where purchased) on their D24T and they simply ground off the dowels from the flywheel. The other problem he had was that the new throwout bearing did not fit correctly in the clutch fork and he had to mod it. End result was that the clutch does not release until near the end of pedal travel. Did the throwout brg. in the K70029-03 kit fit correctly?

I do have a correct replacement pilot brg., NIB.

And a pair of new plastic shifter linkage bushings.

Other than modifying the pressure plate to fit around those dowels I didn't need to do anything else. I'm guessing those dowels are there to hold the pressure plate in position while you get the first few bolts in place and probably could be ground off.

As I recall the throw-out bearing from that kit worked good. I'm not sure which part number on the Sachs box is for the bearing but you could do a search by part number.

Good work on finding the pilot bearing, I just had to use the old one since it was in better condition and had the seal whereas the "National" bearing I purchased looked weaker and didn't have the seal. There's a picture somewhere of both of the bearings, probably on my original "broken crankshaft" thread.

Thanks for the info, makes it seem straightforward. Hoping the flywheel is in good shape.

The local tool library has a transmission jack that I will use on this project.

(Me) Finding the pilot bearing was easy, thanks to D24/T INA pilot bearing group buy.:D

Been working on my clutch R/R, and M46 OD refresh. Got the same kit as Nevadan, couple of differences:

1. PP fit perfectly on the flywheel dowels, but then, the (3) dowels on my flywheel were arranged in an equilateral triangle spacing. Interesting because the other D24 flywheels I have seen had (2) dowels, approx. 60 deg. apart. Wait a minute, those (2) pins are thinner than the (3) dowels; they were not present on my flywheel, actually no holes for them at all. Dan thought they were used for setting the timing at the factory, or factory shops.

2. Throwout bearing from the kit didn't want to install on the release lever, so had to grind off the ledges on the metal clips where it slides into the release lever's elongated hole. It was the correct depth (1-1/4") however, for use with the curved finger PP.

Ended up using the pilot bearing that was in there as it looked to be in good shape, and correct style.

Clutch disc also looked perfect, but replaced it anyway.

No evidence of oil inside the bellhousing.

Machinist said the flywheel was a little warped, maybe that was the cause of the chatter on takeoff? Input shaft splines looked good.

I'm glad it worked out! I don't remember having to grind off anything on the throwout bearing but maybe I did. I also re-used the pilot bearing so it appears those were a very good design.

Buttoned it back up (except for the interior gearshift boots) and test drove it today::::::::::::::::: Smooooooooooooooooooooth clutch action! Much less force required. Engages about halfway thru pedal travel. Such a big difference, actually looking forward to tomorrow's stop&go traffic, LOL. :D

Also took advantage of the clutch cable while it was loose to grease the barrel end that fits into the clutch pedal. No more squealing wild boar trapped up under the dash, my passengers can stop looking for it.

Hope it lasts. The old pressure plate was stamped "Made in Great Britain."

Hardest part of this job (other than getting the trans/bellhousing lined up and at the correct angle to mate up*-- not easy on an aggressively sloping driveway)(well, you could say gravity was helping us in a way) was getting the square rubber isolator over the ball end of the clutch cable. And then to get the cast iron weight end to sit properly over that.

Also, the flywheel bolt holes have an oddball configuration pattern. Subtly unequal spacing that is hard to perceive. You have to try bolting it in various clocking positions. Not fun when you are having to hold up a heavy piece of metal while trying to bolt it in and having to keep rotating it until all the holes magically line up. The whole time that heavy flywheel is aiming for your chest.

So another success with the Sachs kit referenced earlier in this post. It will work, with the following modifications:
1. Some may need to remove or grind down the extra pins (if present) on the flywheel, or remove material on the PP to accomodate.
2. Some may need to grind down most of the ledge on the two metal contact pieces on the throwout bearing (so it will insert into the rounded square hole in the clutch release lever).
3. ALL will need to source the correct pilot bearing, as needed.
4. ALL will need to modify the alignment tool that comes with the kit. O.D. on the end of it (where it fits into the pilot brg.) needs to be 10mm O.D. I built it up with masking tape. Try to make it smooth so it will sit square, and also so no lumps or ridges might catch on the needle rollers and dislodge or pull them out.

Recommend surfacing the flywheel on a surface grinder instead of a lathe. Need to remove equal amount of material from the stepped outer (raised) area also. Machinist should also check the other side of the flywheel to make sure it sits flat. $55-60 seems to be the going price here.


*Good tranny jack with lots of angle adjustments is a must here. We were using the one I borrowed from the local tool library-- a Harbor Freight scissors-type that mostly worked OK (much safer than a floor jack) but not quite enough angle adjustment, and its ratchet strap, while seriously heavy duty, was unusable because the ratchet mechanism ended up at the top of the tranny so no way to release it once it was up in place in the transmission tunnel. We used a separate ratchet strap I had that worked fine, except for when it came time to raise the jack to get the tranny into position. I was manning the jack. When I heard "OK, time to raise the transmission!" I started cranking. Well I wore myself out in a hurry. Why was it so hard to crank it up all of a sudden??? I changed angles, used the other hand, used both hands, planted a foot on it, etc. Started looking for the cheater pipe. Then realized-- I had attached the ends of the strap to the base of the jack. Plenty stable, but it did impede the jack's ability to raise. :o

The great difference between the new clutch pedal effort and the old infers a major problem with the old pressure plate. Finger ends were ragged and uneven. Not likely caused only by a possible collision with the input shaft during transmission removal because they are raised/depressed in more than one section:
Attachment 460

Attachment 461

Surface finish is still smooth but there are some discolorations:
Attachment 462

Clutch looked great! Barely worn!
Attachment 463

Attachment 464

That clutch disk looks like it's in very good condition. Did you put it back in, or put in a new one. I'd definitely keep it as a spare if you didn't put it back in.

Yea, right? Momentarily thought about putting the old one back in, but I put in the new one, had it already as part of the kit. Yes, keeping the old one as a spare.

Pleased with the new clutch performance. Smooth engagement, light pedal effort (one toe), does not appear to slip, engagement about halfway thru pedal travel; a winning combination!

Now just have to unlearn the coping habits of dealing with a bad clutch for a year+. It was like I was participating at a rodeo & they kept giving me that bucking bronco the whole time.