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Updated my text, read below.
Last edited by RedArrow; 06-29-2020 at 12:07 AM. Reason: Title change |
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Im on a camping trip to disassemble a td car and would need quick advice whether or not I should keep the rear.
Is it worth the hassle, and, is it really diesel specific (OR other 700 models also used it)? I would need to know, ASAP. Thank you! The car is a crusty rusty 1985 740 sedan with AT. I took my time and currently about half way there to lift the unit. Remind me of the keeper bits , please. I planned to take entire engine with wires and bits, rad, shroud and some mounts, AC system for the pipes and compr (system holding charge), tranny and piping from ZF, the TD instr cluster. IDK, what else? Probably the fuel filler neck, if i have the time. And drive shafts too (will mark them). What about crossmember? Im planning to keep it as a whole unit. And with the springs from TD but idk if i should keep the strut tubes of the front Macpherson. Is it any special for the d24t? Or gassers used it too, same unit? What about rear diff ...again.....? Advice needed. For the gear ratios idk whether or not I should keep it. Is it a 3.54? Again, IDK. I can`t seem to locate the (missing) label. Car is a 1985 sedan, a `factory turbodiesel` car. Sorry for the confusion, I`m typing on low battery. Placed a spraycan of brake cleaner for the PA bears next to my pillow, between the seats. Yes, I`m spending the nigh in the car. Chilling in the flat wagon trunk. Lol. ![]() What about the d24 factory thin swaybars. Are they keepers because d24t specific? (Prob aren`t worth keeping) What about the driver seat height lifter in the bottom unit? Would it transfer to a pass seat? I`ve done that in my d24 240. What about other parts that I`m not thinking of but important? I`m sure im missing something. I`m keeping the diesel battery tray and airbox unit too. I removed and kept the throttle cable, etc, and the unusable engine harness, only for reference. There is no clutch pedal assembly to keep ![]() What about the shaft, is it dieselspecific too? I`d say it is. From tranny to differential is it d24(t)- specific? OR , gassers used the same? I guess: NO. ZF linkage is not diesel specific, right? Prob all ZF trannies share same linkage parts. IDK, so I`m keeping it. I mean, under the shifter itself, below the car. I will keep the rods too, obviously. And ZF tranny pipes. Question: how long can a ZF "roll" 'safely without tranny trouble"? IF towed on rearwheels? By distance or/and by time, what can it survive? If known to be bad, I won`t keep the ZF then... unless i should bc it is D specific(?). What else? Idk im tired now at 2.30am. Did all preps for liftoff in 6hrs... unfortunately, alone. I`d appreciate a quick response! I`m 200miles out in big mountains and it`s gotta be something *again. This POS gtd injector set im not lucky with. Another one gave up on my trip and started knocking rattling. This is the third of six within less than a few thousand miles. IDK why am I so unlucky with it? Will throw them out, install my old 6 till i find a good rebuilder for my multiple sets. How far can i drive w a knocking injector? Car does 50-70 MPH, no problem, but I can hear the injector (I`m also set with a 1-ton trailer + the parts on the way home. I will take it easy! M46...... On the way here it was fine but PA has mtns!!!! Often, very low speeds ![]() Advice welcome... Day will start at 7AM, to see which inj is acting up. Then grab the sedan parts and load everything up. I have extra injs with me: my old, worn but known good, smokey injectors. IDK if I should waste time dropping one in. I`m so far out in the woods! Update. It is 5am here and i slept 15minutes finally. Freaking coffee! In 2hrs the project continues. I won`t get answers early today, I know..... a reply here is hard to get... also bc it is Sunday in PA, USA and Sunday everywhere in the world ![]() So... no bears came at night. Finally there is daylight... Time to start bricking again soon. Some info for now: The car is tan inside and has pluss seats in "yellow or mustard, IDK what color. Horribly dirty but so comfy! Interior was gone long yrs ago. Car is totally in sad condition, became junkyard "quality" -- caused by elements. Think of: sunlight exposure, perhaps some neglect involved too, water damage, mold, rain, snow, other leaks, dirt, even plenty of garbage inside. And tons of serious underbody rust. When I say rust, this has rust! ALSO, maybe an elderly owner who didn`t have the time, the energy, or both, to deal with keeping this TD on the road or even transfering it under a roof. And we have to mention the strict PA inspection rules too as a strong factor in why the car ended up `here`. I`ll make sure to contact him/her/them, to share my progress once the engine gets cleaned up, hopefully running and back to healthy life again! Unsavable body except maybe a trunk lid and a few doors. No time, no space, no interest. Car ended up in this condition not from the road use but from being parked, parked not on concrete. (I think.) Yeah Last edited by RedArrow; 02-14-2021 at 11:29 AM. |
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Sorry I have to apologize for my lack of attention span. (nearly crosseyed by this time)
Kindly asking you to Please list your questions by priority.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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Crossposted.
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Battery tray/cables? If you have space. Might be easier anyway to pull engine/trans together. Quote:
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
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Thank you for the answers Ngoma. I will probably continue this thread hopefully share details and picts soon. Good progress..
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The 740 TD automatic rear axle is a 3.91:1 ratio, pretty short gears. I would not really say it is worth the massive work to take it and transport it. There is no functional difference versus the gasser rear ends, they can sub right in, and most of those are 3.73:1 which IMO is actually a little better, if anything, than the stock diesel gearing in today's world of 85mph speed limits and 90+mph traffic speeds. Back when these cars were new and 55mph speed limits were commonplace the shorter gearing might have made more sense but for road use now, sacrificing some punch off the line for lower revs on the highway probably makes sense.
Sounds like a fun project, how did it go getting it all apart? Gasser struts are all the same as diesels except the springs, I wouldn't go to any major effort there but it seems simplest/fastest in a situation like what you are working with to just take the entire upright, with strut and spring and knuckle etc. The front crossmember would definitely be worth taking if it is an '86 car but if it is 85 or earlier, not really worth too much effort, especially if you can already see some cracks starting in it or any kind of rust. The 1986 one year only xmember is improved so that is the one you want -- or the same part is used on 89-91 gasser 7 or 9 with a B234F 16 valve 4cyl engine. If going after the crossmember is going to add a lot of work and it's the early type I personally would save the effort and just keep your eye out for one of those updated ones. The early type all crack sooner or later. ZF shift linkage rods are all different and the shift lever is too, doesn't have the OD button of the AW7x gasser trans. But you might not care too much about this unless you are planning a TD/ZF swap into a gas car... Good luck!! ![]()
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
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Thank you V8Volvo,
your answers are always very helpful and thorough. I really appreciate it. Unfortunately I havent seen your reply until I left from where the car was. Is there a way to rename this thread to something else in the future so I didnt have to start a new one? ALSO, I have to figure out HOW to share pictures the right way here, to keep them enjoyable and somewhat good quality. The picts I attach are always high quality on my phone, but the forum doesnt accept them unless I reduce size etc but then they are nearly useless and annoying to see (bc they get too small and blurred/faded etc). What`s the suggestion about posting pictures? 5 picts can go in each reply i know. I often see very very large size pictures posted on this forum in other threads and they appear to be so clear. OK... For those who would like to know details, here`s some basic info about the car: Brown color 740 GLE TD 1985 with the ZF tranny. Sedan. VIN: YV1DX7640F1187589 Other info and numbers on the vin plate were "31", "205-3", "4851" One day in the past, many many years ago, it must have been a very beautiful car with an attractive color combination. The brown color looked amazing under the sun and I think it is an awesome color. Tom B. really likes it too I think. Anyway. A week ago I called the seller at 11PM and left a voicemail with an offer and asked for a call back. Next morning my phone rang and this whole turbodiesel volvo story started. Things went quickly and I was already organizing the Uhaul trailer for the following day and I was making plans to get there asap to see in person what car I bought ![]() I hope sharing many pictures and will be trying to write how it all went. I started `following` this car online since a few weeks earlier when it was still listed as for sale, still owned by the original owner who was born in 1929 (91yo?) and who bought this baby in 1985, brand new, from a nearby Pennsylvania Volvo dealership and had it ever since. I have some of that paperwork and many receipts and booklets that explained basic diesel stuff to the happy owner. The clocks shows 182580 miles and the last `trip` was 233miles by (so odometer probably works). The car has (actually, had) nice mustard/green/yellow-ish idk what color pluss seats. They looked very nice new and even after all this time and car sitting, felt comfy. Only the driver seat was heated, which is weird bc it is a GLE so I think it should have above-basic accessories. IDK. And there was no sunroof but that couldnt save this interior. The car probably sat many years and the sun faded away the entire inside and ate all paint and made plastics very brittle inside. The headliner disappeared and the entire car looked junkyard quality. In original picts it looked great but in person it looked horrible actually. Or worse. Picts also cant tell the odor it had. The carpets showed dirt, water damage, fading, trash, fluid stains and mold etc. The rear car door seal was ductaped, inside edges reinforced with foam and alu foil etc. Probably bc always leaked. Fast forward to when I arrive, things went well and now I have a d24t spare with other bits that I took home. I hope to sort out the picts and post them here in enjoyable quality. I also took videos because not everything went smoothly so I had to come up with ideas on the spot. So far, took it home and took off the zf tranny and put the motor on the engine stand and trying to sort things while accessories were coming off. I`ll need to post a lot to figure out what exactly was going on with this engine. ![]() Someone did work on it and I am already seeing evidence of proper maintenance and quality parts from the factory. That`s the good news. The bad news is that I couldnt get it to start yet, also partly bc I didnt want to. Had to go thru some major thorough inspection. The engine turning over (by hand, so no stuck internals) also did turn it over before I took the engine out of the car in PA. Not super smoothly and without effort but it did and does turn. What has been done so far: Received a wash bc it was pretty much very dirty. Put it on a stand and installed a new starter (long story, the starter was dead and they all said that that is why the car wasnt used for so long...idk) Have been hand cranking it over and over, both directions. Flushed the injection pump multiple times using ATF but havent seen much dirt nor evidence of clogging or gelling, nothing weird. Clean diesel came out of it first but this car hasnt ran for a while. I will call and ask original owner to provide me with a thorough history and stories on this car, if (he is) still available. I removed valve cover and checked the cam, no visible issues and it does look so healthy, no bruises no visible wear. Great. Also the oil looked Very nice and no signs of water, Also no oil in water in reservoir and coolant leaking from block was also chrystal clear/blue by Volvo. I checked the valve clearances carefully by the book and found none that need adjustment, the intakes are religiously at .2 and the exhausts are at .4 with the exception of E valve on cyl #6 being .45 which is still good. I was expecting some tighht intakes but found NONE. The glow plugs were all dead. All six. I suspect a sticking relay bc i found a 2nd set of champions loosely thrown in trunk but they were IN oem bosch glowplug duratherm boxes but those duratherms are not the ones in the head. In the head i found I think 4-5 CH39 champions and 1 or 2 made in FRance glowplugs but all 6 tested and totally DEAD. Last edited by RedArrow; 07-10-2020 at 08:40 PM. |
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Didnt want to lose my text...
So now it has 6 new glowplugs that I installed and redid the bus bars with new insulators bc i was already in there. I`ve been hand cranking all the time and also did some using various batteries and jumpers etc. The alternator is removed and not on the engine as of now. I looked inside the intake and it has oil but nothing fully clogged up and yes sludgy but only a layer which is normal. The Garrett T3 turbine has no in-out or sideways play so that`s good too. I used new seals and removed the injectors for checkup but havent tested them at all, no equipment to do so. Also new return lines. The car had oem Volvo coolant hoses etc and mostly everything labeled by volvo. Someone knew about these cars, probably the dealership. The valve cover gasket is the 1piece rubber type, in good cond. THE CAR WAS LAST LEGALLY REGISTERED IN 2012 AND EXPIRED IN 2014. that`s s x years, but the timing belts shows no wear that indicates that sitting, i cant see deteriorating rubber, same for the pump belt in the rear. IDK. will ask. Though, the rear belt is too tight. I`ll check current timing out of curiosity and redo the belt in the rear. The frnt def can serve for now to have a start up. I bought 2 gallons of 5w40 mobil1 td oil and added a new mann filter the motor oil is drained and i havent put in the new one. The waterpump and the idler seems to be in very acceptable condition (visual, no play) Timing belt cover was fully dry inside and no signs of oil leak in there, good. Removed the vacuumpump and saw a fresh looking oval gasket, probably original and not just an oring or what i usually see: gasketmaker ![]() The valves have shims that look very nice and no signs of bad oil used, they are in the range of 3.50-3.85. All move nicely and dont appear to be `stuck` The starter was dead, a Hitachi small version. I installed a good Bosch unit from my d24 nonturbo and tried spinning the thing a little, of course 12v taken from IP and 30seconds with 5min breaks. Every time I hit the starter I felt like it wasnt spinning fast enough. Took the life of the great cond battery that i took from my other daily d24t. so i grabbed another starter i have as a spare, from another nonturbo. That is a rebuilt certified unit, remy, mexican type and had a rebuild. Sizewise it is huge. That`s what is on now. BUT The engine wont turn easily unless I get the glowplugs out or the injectors. I then kept the injectors in and took out all 6 plugs and thats where i am now. I can spin the motor by hand and it has no weirtd feel to it. no assymetric, `feelable` cylinder movements whatsoever, but when the plugs and injrs are all in and tight, the starter wont turn it over, AND even by hand, the engine build up compression that is too big to let it turn smoothly. I suspected that it was bad starter motor or a tired battery or stuck rings etc at first but all those i close out by now. Thinking that I partially hydrolocked it at the carwash or just by turning it a lot. on day 3 i added 1 ML (1milliliter) of new motor oil through the inj holes to possibly free up something if stuck at all. no change. it is i think tons less than a tablespoon bc i did use a medical syringe to do exactly 1ml. no joke, it was minimal and i was careful. So i dont think i hydrolocked it. My thinking need to focus on something else. maybe the injectors leaked in? i have no idea anymore. Also, if it ever hydrolocked (lets say it did), it never ran like it so there should be no damage. What i mean by not turning smoothly is, that at each and every cyl it gets too tight but it wont stop completwely. i can hand turn it through that spot and keep going. No hits felt, no noise, no internal sounds, it is smooth but there is too much compression. I wonder how that is possible. lets assume it is hydrolocked. wouldnt it need to squirt out after so much spinning? I even moved the engine upside down and tried every angle and comprssed air and spinning by hand and or battery etc. by starter i mean. Everything that was there, should be out by nowm but as soon as i tighten the plugs and injectors it has ``too much compr`` (lol) at each cyl as i crank that starter wont hold a nice and steady roll. it wont be able to turn it as it should. But again, nothing inisde feels stuck at all and when lugs are all out, engine turns like smoothest possible. I should get some sleep bc it was several long days with not much sleep. Im sure im missing something.. Loads of info, i know, but this is the situation here. ![]() Pictures and other details tomorrow... Last edited by RedArrow; 06-21-2020 at 09:47 PM. |
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Someone did work really well on this motor so im hoping it has no bad news about compression or other failures unknown for now.
Engine (old) oil had zero chunks and no crap in it.. Car has wahler 87 thermostat and it came with a new nissens radiator too and couple of hoses made by volvo. It did get the right stuff all over the engine. Im hoping for a nice recovery. Had `fresher looking`volvo mounts on both sides and in tranny. BTW the timing belt says volvo on it. idk how that is possible. No sludge under the valve cover either and the inj pump has a sticker with the rebuilding company`s name and address, a reputable diesel shop in harrisburg PA. Diesel injection specialists. so that`s good news Even the ps bracket is not cracked ![]() Car had volvo original fuel filter and the same white volvo oil filter installed (not original from 85 but original by the manufacturer lol) Engine wiring harness appears to be a real mess biodegradable wires by Volvo. I imagine some glowplug relay or 12V to inj pump wire issues. Also took ac parts bc my other d24 needed it some piping and a compressor (prob frozen on this too, lol) *** I set up jars and a flushing sytem for the pump and also installed a low pressure fuel pump to assist bleeding and the first start which im very excited about... it may never happen unless i figure out and proceed to find the cause of this slow-turning issue. I keep reading about how to get rid of a hydrolock situ so advice is welcome. I`ll not do carwash on my next d24t. It may have got some water thru the intake but i highly doubt. also it should have come out already bc i cranked a lot with plugs out. somethimes injs out only. then plugs only, then both all out then etc etc. Something holds and wont let it turn as it should. I went ahead outside and handcranked my daily driver d24t and it felt 2x easier (took less effort) to hand crank it ---of course by the 27mm crankshaft nut the famous f...ng 4-500ft/lb story nut. BTW. The car paperwork mentions it as `Volvo 740 GLE TDA` So yes, A for Automatic, i think. The other day this came up in another thread somewhere here, there was a conversation about what A means in the TDA. Last edited by RedArrow; 06-28-2020 at 11:45 PM. |
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Brown 744 1owner sadness
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