D24 NA snapped camshaft

[anders]

Injection timing will not be set if any of the timing belts have been off.
The dial indicator and holder that I purchased new a few years ago looks like it's no longer available. When I get some free time I will try to track one down..
8mm shank sounds right, but can't be for sure.

[745 TurboGreasel]

Any timing tool that says it works for VW IDI will be fine.

It is possible to R&R the pump and keep it in time if you keep the belt and pulleys mated.

If you don't have the tools, aligning the marks gets you close enough to start the engine in every case I've seen. I've also been 180* off, and got started, you cant get much worse than that.

[HarryCarry]

745 TurboGreasel--thanks for the info. I wound up purchasing the above mentioned kit on eBay from El Paso Tools. First I called Baum Tools to confirm it was the right tool which it was. He quoted me a price of about $190 for the indicator and holder. I referenced the one on eBay and he looked it up and said the $65 on eBay was identical but he could match the price. He didn't car where I bought it, so I hit buy it now as it was the last one on eBay.

Update: I removed the injectors from the old head last night. They are now soaking in mineral spirits. Should I open them for inspection? I have no way of really testing them.

[anders]

You need to be careful with the injectors, you don't want to get any debris inside of them, if your soaking them its likely that you will get dirt into them. At this point I would disassemble each one individually and clean them thoroughly with brake clean, re assemble and hope the injector bodies won't leak.

You can always have a shop pop test them for you. Before getting them pop tested I would look at the face of the injector nozzle where it seats with the heat shield, if you can see some erosion around the pintle, I would rebuild them.

There are a few members here that would gladly pop test them for you for free if you pay for shipping.

I have four never used rebuilt d24 injectors I can sell you ( you would need to get two more) I also have a set of six low mile rebuilt units that tested good also.

[ngoma]

Whenever disconnecting the injector lines I like to close up the injector inlets. Since I have not been able to locate the appropriate plastic caps I use aluminum foil to cover them, pinched tightly into the threads. Same for the IP delivery valves.

Soaking the injectors in solvent doesn't seem like such a good idea. Too much chance for floating grit to find its way into the injector inlet. The exterior of the injector is not nearly so important to clean or keep clean. Solvent CAN help to clean (I like ultrasonic better) the interior components of the injectors AFTER you disassemble them, and maintain cleanroom standards. Oftentimes the sealing faces and discs need refacing (figure-8 patterns on fine-fine sandpaper on flat glass surface) but upon reassembly, keep all dust, fibers from a piece of thread from a rag, fingerprints*, etc. off the components!

DO try to avoid deforming the protruding pin of the nozzle pintle. Pretty fragile, and will deform if it gets knocked around.

Now I reread your post and see you have no way to test the injectors-- no reason to open them up, and lots of reasons not to.

Here is a good step-by-step to see what is involved:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?opt...d=20&Itemid=28

More details (not exactly our injectors):
http://dieselgenerators.tpub.com/TM-...400-350084.htm
"To check this fit, lift valve about one third of its length out of the body. The valve should slide down to its seat without aid when assembly is held at a 45 ngle."

This dropping the pintle into the nozzle when held at a 45deg angle so it slides home by its own weight business is sometimes hard to achieve (*fingerprints here will ruin your day)...

But it is one of the pieces of the puzzle necessary for a good-performing injector.

In the end you want:
1. Correct pop pressure (ideally equal across the injectors)
2. Good spray pattern
3. NO drips or seepage between injection events.

Probably the injector nozzles and IP fuel delivery piston are the highest tolerance machined items in your car.

[anders]

Any progress been made to the car?

[HarryCarry]

Thanks for asking, Anders. Not much progress in the last month or so because I've been busy working on the boat and fishing. Got the boat hauled and just about winterized, so I'll be getting back to work on the car soon. I have the head disassembled and cleaned. Next , I'll lap the valves and reassemble. I will post my progress.

[RedArrow]

5years went by....

How is the motor?

[HarryCarry]

I'm back and ready to complete the job. Everything is removed from the engine and all replacement parts are in. I had a hell of a time removing the bolt for the harmonic balancer. I don't have the special tool for that, so I used a strap wrench around the pulley and a breaker with a four foot pipe attached. The first strap wrench from Harbor Freight broke its rubber strap, but had success with an old webbed one I have from my Army days. Now all that needs to be done before reassembling the engine is lap four leaky valves and reassemble the cylinder head. This thing is leaving my garage soon, whether on her own power or by hook.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by HarryCarry

...the bolt for the harmonic balancer. I don't have the special tool for that...

Have you checked around for someone close to you that can loan you the special tools? Otherwise, how are you going to tighten that bolt sufficiently? If it comes loose it will ruin your day.