Not getting fuel

[R.Mojica]

Loostened all the lines at the injectors yesterday and pulled glow plug fuse and tried 3 or 4 10 second cranking sessions and still bone dry at the injectors. Having a friend over to help with the other suggestions you guys listed.

[NJTy180]

not sure if its the approved method around here or not, but when I was getting that 83 I bought running for the first time after sitting for years and years, I pulled the return line off and used one of those oil squirt cans filled with fuel and pumped it up until the IP was full of fuel. Somewhere there was a small screw that appeared work as a bleeder, but I can't for the life of me explain where it was.

Either way I had it fired up in about 20 mins after swapping out the fuel filter then just cracked and bled the injectors as usual.

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by R.Mojica

Loostened all the lines at the injectors yesterday and pulled glow plug fuse and tried 3 or 4 10 second cranking sessions and still bone dry at the injectors. Having a friend over to help with the other suggestions you guys listed.

The glow plug fuse in the car (#13) also runs the IP shutoff solenoid. For that reason, you don't want to pull it when you're trying to bleed the lines. Pull the black ground wire (single spade terminal) off the bottom of the glow plug relay instead, as suggested. Just make sure it doesn't come into contact with the battery 12V+ feed wire while it's off. You need the GP fuse to be in place while bleeding.

Force-feeding the IP if it went dry will be the fix for this; cranking with the pump dry won't do it. Use one of the methods described, feeding pressure *ahead* of the fuel filter, since you want to keep the fuel clean and prime the filter and supply line too. Should start easily once the IP is full again. If it sat with the injector unions open, you'll be amazed at how thoroughly it's able to dry the pump out -- even overnight -- since the tank is much lower than the IP, especially if the fuel level is low.

If you have no way to add pressure but have a MityVac or other vacuum source, an alternative that is a little more labor-intensive is to vacuum prime the IP. For this, you need to temporarily *tighten* the injector unions (so that you don't suck air in from there), then connect the vacuum source to the IP outlet hose - union near the dipstick tube works fine. Pull vacuum and you should be able to watch fuel flow from the filter head through the clear line into the pump. Pull until you get clear, air-free fuel flowing out the pump outlet line. Then reconnect the outlet to the tank return, loosen the injector unions, and crank to bleed. Works, but takes much longer and is more laborious, partially due to the small orifices in the return banjo that make bleeding slow, and also because you don't get to add positive pressure while cranking. But it is an option if you're in a bind and this is all you have available.

[R.Mojica]

We got it running. had a friend over yesterday. we pressurized the fuel tank and cracked open the fuel return at the IP, lots of air then fuel came out while cranking. at that point I put the fuse back in as I had a feeling it had something to do with the fuel shutoff also. a few minutes later we had it running. I drove it 40 miles to work today, it was 17 degrees when I left this morning. started alright, alittle stumble for the 1st 2 minutes till I pulled out of my driveway. thanks for the help guys.

[ngoma]

Good for you! How did you pressurize the fuel tank?

[R.Mojica]

i rolled up a paper towel around the outside of the filler neck, cut the bottom off a 20oz soda bottle and suck my air blow tool in the cap side of the bottle. i have a 33 gallon compressor.