Source for tools

[TheShadow]

Hi all.

I just purchased an '82 245 D6 (N/A), with unknown service history, 406k kms, and I want to change the camshaft timing belt (IP belt seems new).
I've followed the greenbooks, and I want to get (with the least amount of money) the necessary tools to do it properly.

Although mechanically inclined, I'm not a mechanic, so I want to do things without shortcuts and not inventing too much.

So far I gathered that I need:

. 5187-3 - Wrench - vibration damper (lock pulley)
. 5188-1 - Wrench with extension arm: for vibration damper center bolt (or 27mm socket)
. 5202-0 - Puller; for idler pulley (pulley withdraw)
. 5197-2 - Belt tension gauge: timing gear belts and pump drive
. 5199-8 - Wrench: front and rear camshaft gears (sprocket holder)

Where to get'em?!

To change just the cam timing belt, will I actually need to remove the valve cover to set the cylinder 1 at TDC?
On a side note, it seems that the actual valve cover is leaking a bit; previous owner told me that even if I change the gasket, it will start leaking quite soon. Is that right? Are there a better gasket than others?



By the way... water pump should be changed at the same time, right?

Thanks in advance

[Jason]

You will find a few timing tools on ebay, there are also other sources such as Baum tools, you can search the internet for their site. Look around the the forum a bit more and search this section, tool sources have been a subject on more than one occasion. You dont need the puller IMO, just tap on the backside of the sprocket with a punch and it will pop off (they always have for me). The sprocket holder is nice, though I have successfully used vice grips on the cam to counter hold it when tightening the bolts. The tension gauge is also not really needed, I would just try to duplicate the same tension the belt currently has, you'll know if its too loose, and its kinda hard to really get it way too tight, as you just push on the water pump by hand to tension it. Not like there is a tension bolt that you can go way overkill with. You will need the crank pulley counter hold, and I would recomend a 3/4 drive 27mm socket if you can find it, as the torque is very high if you don't have the special volvo torque multiplier wrench tool. You'll want to find the 1 piece rubber gasket for the valve cover, it more than likely wont leak. The multipiece cork gasket is crap by comparison. You do need to remove the valve cover and both timing belts to lock the cam at TDC, I wouldn't do the mark the belts and swap way, thats not very reliable, and you don't know if its timed right in the first place as it sits right now. That being said, you do need the cam lock plate as well. Hope this was helpfull.

Jason

[Grubby]

Jason,
I am getting ready to replace crank/cam and pump/cam belts on my d24t (now in a 240 chassis with a m46, by the way ). My question is: Can you explain how you used vice grips to hold the rear cam sprocket to tighten the bolt? Were they oversized ones that fit over the cam and belt? I'm worried that would damage the belt. Did you put rubber or something in between vice grips and belt surface? Also, I seem to be able to get a regular box wrench on the rear camshaft sprocket bolt if I keep it pointing down below the bolt (not bumping into that firewall ridge). Do you think this will be sufficient to tighten the bolt or do I need to fabricate/buy the 5201 wrench? The throw I'm able to get is pretty limited. Thanks in advance!

[v8volvo]

Jason probably used the vise grips directly on the cam, with the valve cover off. Works to help center the cam when using the locking plate in the back, but I would not rely on them for absorbing tightening torque.

The 9995199 counterhold tool is one of the easiest to get, since it is the only D24/T tool that is also specified for use on newer Volvo gas engines. It is still designated as a required special tool, used for the same cam sprocket counterholding purpose on the whiteblock engines (B6304, 5-cylinders etc). Any Volvo dealer will have at least one handy even if they have not worked on a diesel in decades, so if you can make friends with someone in your local dealer's service dept you might be able to get him to loan you the correct 5199 tool for an afternoon or a weekend. That would be your best bet.

You can try to get other stuff to work, like a universal sprocket buster tool as used on TDI's etc, but nothing works as well as the proper Volvo tool in this application -- especially in the 240 chassis, where clearance between that rear sprocket and the firewall is particularly tight. You can try to get creative in the 700 cars, but there's really nothing else that will do the job in a 240.