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  #1  
Old 03-19-2012, 08:19 AM
!242TDi !242TDi is offline
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Default Arizona via Texas & an unexpected 240

Howdy y'all....

to clarify the title, I'm originally from Texas, but I'm living in Az going to school for a master cert in everything remotely automotive I can get from the school I'm at, and I managed to get a junked out old 242 volvo for my project car in all my classes for free from my brother. Its a 77 with what I believe is a B21F, though I still need to check numbers b/c my brother said the guys he bought it from swapped in a different engine and he doesn't remember which one. Either way, between the two of us, we've pondered all sorts of engine goodies for it if either of us kept it, which I've finally decided to do, including a TDi or IDI swap of some kind (hence the user name). My latest idea has been to throw in a D24T as long as I could do it for reasonably cheap. I was initially scared of them because I heard the typical horror stories that follow diesel volvos, but turns out they can be pretty cool if you give them some love! I mean, they came in Pinzgauers overseas for years, if they came in an expedition ready vehicle like that they can't be that bad properly outfitted. And I've grown up nursing all sorts of engines along that few others seem able. So, I've decided I'd give it a shot. It could be fun at least

So, as a newb whose still doing some research, I still have a few questions (forgive me if the info is out there and I just haven't stumbled onto it yet)

1. do the D24 and redblock volvo motors use the same crossmember, or can a stock redblock crossmember be fabbed within reason to accommodate one?

2. If I found a 760 donor car (which I have, I'm just on the fence buying it based on this info), would it be a mostly straight-forward if not straight-across swap?

3. If the motor doesn't run, what do I mainly need to look out for? I know these things tend to overheat stock, so the usual things with that, and probably if they ran it outa oil etc, but any other specific D24 or D24T type things?

Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 03-19-2012, 04:16 PM
michaelovitch michaelovitch is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: France
Vehicle: 245 d24 NA
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crossmenbers are the same on the 200 serie cars as far i know.
the difference is in the engine mounts wich are different on the diesel and gas 200 models.
the 760 diesel mounts will be useless for your 242.

you need 200 series diesel mounts and silent bloc.

the drive shaft lenght is different following your gearbox combo m46 gearbox DF are shorter because of the OD.

diesel radiators are bigger than gas ones on the 200 serie.






Those engines do not overheat at all stock that's BULLSHIT.

only neglected engines do not work properly.


Change the timing belt, water pump, timing belt pulley (idler pulley) .
follow the torque specs

you need special tools to do it with accuracy
the same for setting the pump.


use synthetic oil if possible and let it warm up like any engine.



if it do not run ?
what do you mean ?


if glowplugs work ,pump adjusted correcly , not seized injectors and valve clearance (you should have hydraulic lifters on a turbo) you have no reason to have it not running.


if you have questions...ask
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2012, 07:40 PM
!242TDi !242TDi is offline
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Ok cool. same cross member. Can I not just fab mounts? I ask only cuz 240 diesels are getting very, very scarce. I honestly don't remember when I knowing saw one last.

Driveshaft length I'm not really worrying about right now b/c I'm swapping to a T5 or AX5 @ some point if not @ the same time, but thanx for bringing it up b/c I completely spaced that

radiator I figured was common sense, but once again, thnx for pointing it out. I'm still a newb on here & I know y'all know nothing about me or what I know & don't know.

Ok, they overheat just like Jeep/Chrysler/AMC l-6's don't last. Heard both stories, read y'all saying they don't do it, so I guess it a routine maintenance thing just like its little brother the 1.6 IDI & TD.

I always hear about these "special tools" anytime working on a VW motor comes up. what exactly are they that makes them so "special" and forces me to buy them from VW or off ebay?

I asked the "if it doesn't run" deal just as I said; any special quirks that go w/ these engines I need to watch for if I want to try and get it running again. For instance: most opposed ("boxer" to the automotive crowd) airplane engines (which is most all of them that aren't turbine or 70+ yrs. old) if they have been sitting for some time, the bottom spark plugs will be filled w/ oil from it settling in the bottom of the cylinders over time; so its a good idea to take em out and clean them. That sort of thing. Things an inexperienced outsider like myself won't know. I also asked b/c I hadn't contacted the guy w/ the donor car yet, and apparently the engine ran fine, he parked it because the tranny is shot and he lost all forward gears. If I have time next week I'll probably go look @ it.
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  #4  
Old 03-19-2012, 10:14 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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I haven't noticed any D24T obvious chronic overheating, but a distinct possibility is sudden explosive overheating caused by a failed coolant hose (there are numerous running alongside the block) so use good quality hose in good condition and inspect frequently. Another good idea is to install a low coolant warning sensor in the overflow tank and wire it to a loud buzzer or bright warning light in the instrument panel.

Special tools mostly for R/R timing belt (interference engine) and IP timing.

If the engine has been sitting for some time, here are some things that will make it easier to start:

1. Flush the IP with fresh fuel.

2. New fuel filter.

3. Test ALL glow plugs and replace any faulty ones. Easiest while the engine is out. Remove GP, hook up to battery or charger; tip should glow red within seconds.

4. While the GPs are out, squirt some oil into the holes, to ensure good ring seal for starting after long inactivity period. About a teaspoonfull each. Not too much to hydrolock.

5. The d24 wants beefier battery cables than the gasser. Make sure they are in good condition. You want the starter to spin the engine FAST.

6. Stay away from ether.
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  #5  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:12 AM
anders anders is offline
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!242TDi-
Did you start a thread on 4btswaps?
Before starting the d24t in the 7xx car I would highly recommend having a friend there to help. The reason I say this is because the VE pumps have a common issue with the governor assembly getting sticky from sitting. I have had 3 cases when the IP would not self limit the fuel causing the engine to run high RPM, and in one horrible case a D24T engine I was going to install in my 244 revved sky high and something let go destroying the block and head ( look up kibbles and bits thread). I would have the air cleaner assembly removed from the turbo and have a friend holding a piece of wood to block off the intake if the engine decides to run away. It is fairy unlikely but it can happen.
As for putting the D24t in the 242 it should be fairly easy. I would modify the 242's crossmember to fit the D24t oil pan. and fab up some new mount perches on the crossmember so you can use the d24t mounts. There are several members here that have a d24t in there 240's, all swaps are different. A 242 would be really cool with a D24T+IC+T5.
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1982 242 D24+T/M46- Super pumped! Build thread:
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2012, 12:04 PM
!242TDi !242TDi is offline
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Ok cool... nothing too fancy, just what you'd do to most any diesel. Or most any engine for that matter.

Quote:
4. While the GPs are out, squirt some oil into the holes, to ensure good ring seal for starting after long inactivity period. About a teaspoonfull each. Not too much to hydrolock.
A teaspoon? Seriously? They'll hydrolock on little more than that? Guess I'll have to get used to it being a small engine. I grew up on Airplane engines and big V8's so.... yeah.... guess it makes sense.

And no beefy bat cables? They short-changed them there too? figures.... seems these poor engines just got the shaft their whole production life.... Do they make/ is there an adaptable hi-torque starter, speaking of spinning it fast?

Anders yes I did! Hows it going sir? This is the same hunk of junk w/ the same potential swap(s) (he's actually not that bad, he's just in pieces b/c I dismantled him to paint him. It looked UGLY before...). And I'm familiar with runaways... I have a Detroit! Just didn't know VE pumps were potentially bad about it if they've been sitting. Guess I had to learn though, seems VE pumps lately have been trying to find me! And yes, I agree a D24T+IC & a T5 in a 242 would rock, hence I'm seriously considering it! Decent mileage + Biodiesel capability, space, versatility, and the ability to beat all but the most ridiculous of cars in most any race. And its (euro-style) old-school cool!
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  #7  
Old 03-31-2012, 06:33 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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How much oil do you need to get in to the rings to help get a good seal for starting after a several years slumber? Well you could squirt in as much oil as you want, and then spin it with the injectors or GPs out.

RE: The battery cable comment. Aint you planning to plant a D24 into a gasser car? Or did I misunderstand? Because if you are, the gasser battery cables will cause you problems. Std. D24 battery cables were satisfactory, but now we're talking possibly 17-18 years on them, getting a little old, how good are they really? That pos. one is pretty long. And as you are already experienced w/ diesels, wouldn't you agree that for diesels, bigger/better quality battery cables are just about right?
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