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#1
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Ok, cheers. Will check all of the vacuum system. I think it supplies vacuum to the heater system (ECC - Electronic Climate Control) so there are a few connections to check!
Don't think there is any reservoir on mine either, just a servo (booster?). Will try what you suggested and see what happens.
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg |
#2
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Yes Mate, excuse my American term. The brake booster is of course the vacuum servo in the English I grew up with.
cheers, Steve (formerly of London N9) |
#3
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You need to check the whole system to see if the is any leaks.
the pump is not very often the problem the servo (brake booster/mastervac) the big mushroom behind the master cylinder can leak.... you can test it with smoke (smoke machine or cigar) you fill it directly with a hose in its own hole. the hoses between it and the pump too can crack and leak don't forget the whole hvac system works with vacuum too...if a hose is leaky, no more enough vacuum. condamn the tiny hose of the hvac by pinching it then test the servo plugged directly on the pump. you can put the finger on the nipple of the pump too it should blow job your finger. you have to eliminate the potential circuits one by one to find the problem.
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#4
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Blow job your finger ??? Il va falloir trouver d'autres sources d'apprendre l'Anglais dites donc !!
J'ai bien rigoler :-) Steve Quote:
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#5
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Quote:
that was the point. i thought to the pulses of the pump first and it came in my dirty mind straight... i know i'm a bad boy....
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#6
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Quirky little things them vacuum pumps
All I would add to the good advice given above is that persuading my vacuum system to behave has taken a bit of doing.
When I first got the car, around 3 yrs ago, all was well. Since then, I had to get the head-gasket done and in the process, I believe the shop that did it must have put the pump pushrod back in the wrong way out. A few weeks after the work, the pump was making 'I need my tappets adjusting' noises occasionally and overall vacuum availability was noticeably down. Only really just after startup - it was usually ok after a few miles - but when you're still half asleep of a morning and pulling up at a busy junction, it's a bit of a surprise to find you have no brake assist! The tapping got worse until I decided that the cam was at risk if something wasn't done. Took the pump off, fiddled around a bit. Put it back on - and it was quiet and fine for 2 weeks. Then the noise started again. I actually bought a new pump, thinking the old one was done, but, at last, realised that the pushrod had different ends. One was flat machined, the other had a smaller machined area raised above the end of the rod by a millimetre or so. The rod had various minor bite marks in the case hardening but careful use of some emery paper took the bumps off. I put it back in with the flat face to the cam and also adjusted its oil spray jet to squirt a bit closer to the edge of the head. Since then, the pushrod and original pump have been silent and producing working vacuum under all conditions. You can still overpower the pump if you stamp on the pedal continuously but in normal use it's fine. As a result, I have a spare Pierburg pump available, should anyone be in trouble! Boots. Last edited by Boots; 12-23-2012 at 03:49 PM. |
#7
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Interesting - I will have a look at that one day! Although, when I switch the engine off, there is a hissss inside the car for a second, so I suspect the leaky vacuum pipes to the Aircon/climate control - I had a quick look but they appear to be well hidden...
What do you mean about adjusting the oil squirter though? Not heard of that before...
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1990 Volvo 765 D24Tic (factory UK spec Tic). Monark 273 nozzles 163bar, Ajusa MLS gasket, 16psi, Water Injection, 17" Titans with 25mm H&R spacers, running 85% WVO/SVO. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...AG0269-sig.jpg |
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