head studs

[axe wound]

Hi all , can anyone tell me where to purchase a stud kit to replace the head bolts on a d24t
Many thanks Axe

[745 TurboGreasel]

I got mine form Raceware, and they appeared very nice.
PN RWE-1010.
I followed these instructions to a T, the head has held for years.
The nut end threads are much finer than the block end ones, so 50Ft/Lb gives loads of clamping force.

Hi ,

The RWE-1010 instructions are below for reference. Normally we recommend (Teflon) pipe dope on the bottom of the studs, not Teflon tape, but I guess you could use tape too. The intended purpose is to keep the stud from turning when you install/remove the nut but to also allow removal of the stud by hand.

Regards,

Randy Hubbard
RACEWARE Engineering LLC

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS RWE-1010 CYLINDER HEAD STUD KIT

PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION.

Correct installation is important for proper results. After cleaning the cylinder block deck per the VOLVO factory service manual, clean all head bolt holes with an 12 X 1.75mm tap and compressed air if possible. (Be careful not to allow debris to enter any other area of engine.) Peel the protective rubber coating off the stud threads by hand. Clean the threads with a toothbrush if necessary.

We recommend using a very light coat of Teflon based pipe sealant on the coarse threads of the stud before installation into the block. (The sealant is used merely to hold the stud in place if you remove the nut and washer at a later date.) We DO NOT RECOMMEND USING LOCTITE ON ANY OF THE THREADS!!!)

The studs should be threaded in by HAND ONLY until they bottom. NOTE: If you are installing the head on an engine in the vehicle, check for adequate clearance to install the head with the studs installed in the block. (Studs can be installed with head in position if necessary.) Make sure to install the head gasket correctly, etc. before positioning the cylinder head.

IMPORTANT
: When installing these studs in the block, make sure that the studs extend out of the block far enough to allow full engagement of the 12 point nut when installed with the hardened washer in place. In some instances this may require backing the stud out a few threads from being bottomed in the block. Do not back the stud out any more than necessary for full thread engagement in the nut.

After the studs have been installed correctly, use regular engine oil ONLY, (NO SLIPPERY lubes) to lubricate the stud, nut and washer before assembly. It is preferred that the washer be installed with the inside bevel facing up toward the nut. The nuts use a 1/2" 12 point (American) style socket. Torque the nuts in three increments using the torque pattern in the VOLVO factory service manual.

step 1 (25) ft/lbs. step 2 (40) ft/lbs. FINAL TORQUE 50 ft/ lbs.

We recommend running the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature then shutting it off and allowing it to cool to room temperature, then re-torque the nuts to 50 ft/lbs. again.

RACEWARE Engineering L.L.C. warrants these fasteners to be free of defects in material and workmanship for life, to the original purchaser. No other warranty is expressed or implied including suitability for application. Claims are limited to replacement of defective item or refund of purchase price only, at RACEWARE Engineering’s option, if returned with proper authorization. The user assumes all risk and agrees to hold RACEWARE Engineering L.L.C. and its principals harmless, and free of any claims including but not limited to incidental expenses, cost of removal and replacement, etc.. No claims may be brought by outside parties such as friends, family, acquaintances, or others.Warranty VOID if fasteners are subjected to misuse or abuse, or improperly installed.

By installation of these fasteners, user agrees to these terms.

IF FOR ANY REASON YOU CHOSE NOT TO ACCEPT THESE TERMS, YOU MUST

RETURN THE MERCHANDISE IN ITS ORIGINAL CONDITION FOR A FULL REFUND

[v8volvo]

I also installed a set of Raceware studs earlier this year and was impressed as well. Just ordered 2 more sets. I don't think I will ever use the stock TTY bolts again. The stud kit is not cheap, about $300 USD, but installation is pretty simple, they are reusable, and most of all they seem to do a stellar job keeping the head sealed up -- not a small concern on these motors....

ARP also makes studs that are compatible with the D24 setup. Haven't tried those firsthand but they have an equally good quality reputation and may be slightly less expensive. On the other hand, Raceware is great in that they make a kit packaged specifically for the D24/T whereas ARP does not -- you have to buy their kit for a 4cyl VW diesel, which is short 4 sets of stud/nut/washer, then add the missing pieces a la carte. I'll keep buying Raceware stuff since I know I like their product but I am sure you can't go wrong either way.

[745 TurboGreasel]

I've used ARP on other engines, and visually, they appear to be not as nice in the care and finish department. Strength wise, no problem.

[v8volvo]

Originally Posted by 745 TurboGreasel

I followed these instructions to a T, the head has held for years.

Do you have an MLS gasket in yours, or a fiber one?

Wonder if metal vs fiber matters much if the studs are used. I used a Reinz fiber gasket in the one I did with studs. The metal gaskets are cool but becoming difficult and expensive enough to get now, it's almost the same price to do studs + fiber as to do MLS + bolts, and I think I would prefer to spend my $$ on studs rather than the metal gasket. I guess MLS + studs probably is the #1 setup assuming gasket surfaces are perfect too, but puts your investment in head gasket + hardware above $400.... Dunno if the gasket performance difference is enough when studs are in use to justify the price differential.

My thinking is that the studs are able to put enough squeeze on, with their different thread pitch, that either gasket type probably does the job more or less equally.

[745 TurboGreasel]

I don't think so, or the newer VAG motors would have fiber gaskets. IMO stretch bolts work fine, but are a poor choice where head gasket replacement is common. If I was running a motor where it was always the bottom end that gave out, I'd use stretchies all day.
Due to availability, I'm running a Reinz( I think) fiber gasket which I now know cost more through Worldpac than an MLS shipped from Europe. At the time I hoped that since it cost double my previous Elring it should be MLS...the shop was unable to tell me in advance, and in disgust I installed it. IMO the Elring only failed because my head wasn't smooth.

[anders]

I have never bolted a head on a d24 or d24t without using studs. I Use arp studs designed for the 1.9 tdi. I buy several sets at a time. I can vouch for the arp studs, I have 20,000 miles on my d24t with max fuel on a consistent 20 lbs of boost, I don't have a waste gate so I have seen boost numbers in the mid 30s. I'm using a fiber 3 notch.
I'm not sure about the race ware studs but the arp studs are undercut, meaning they have a real thick shank near where it threads into the block and the length between the threaded points is thinner. The point of that is to get the best of both worlds, the even clamping force of studs and the stretch needed for expansion/ contraction of the aluminum head. I will get a picture posted of a stud.

I have always used traditional studs in previous engine builds with great results and was a little sceptic about using the undercut studs, but they have done a great job on my 244.

[anders]

Here is a picture of an arp stud and a factory TTY bolt side by side. Notice the bulge at the end of the coarse threads on the stud and thinner shank.

[axe wound]

fantastic replies lads, sounds like its studs all the way.
Many thanks

[Jason]

I've been running the ARP studs in my build for close to three years now, pushing as much fuel as the pump can push, and 30lbs of boost to clean it up.. Knock on wood the gasket hasn't popped yet.. I would expect raceware studs to be slightly higher quality, though ARP products are well made too. When I bought mine I didn't know anything else was available...

Jason