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#1
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For the injectors: If you capped the inlets and avoided any shocks to the delicate needle in the other end, there is not much more you can really do to "clean" them without risking dirt entering. Hopefully you also stored the injector lines in a way to avoid foreign material from entering.
Reusing injector heat shields: There is a way to reform them, with a 1/2" or 3/8" ball bearing, an appropriately sized socket, and a vise. The idea is to squeeze it back into the original shape, judging alongside a new one. Inspect for any cracking along the circumference of the inner hole. Red Arrow, please share where you are getting heat shields for $2. Helpful link for refurbishing injectors: http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?opt...d=20&Itemid=28
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#2
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Im pretty sure I had it from multiple sources already (ipd fcp eeuro groton etc ebay amazon) but here's one. I will search for bosch ones too.
https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/PartR...or+heat+shield Let me edit myself bc of the size of the "fuel filter " hole... LMAO https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-...al-068130219my Get me 13pcs pls so when we meet in LI I could pick it up from you. Thx Last edited by RedArrow; 03-08-2018 at 11:53 PM. |
#3
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Hey guys, I'm back. Sorry for the delay but got caught up with other things. My last post was a year ago and at that time I was going to the parts place to pickup the heat shields and filters then get the injectors tested at my buddy Don's shop. Well, while at the parts place, I told the guy behind the counter that I was heading over to Don's to test the injectors. He told me that I'd have a tough time doing that since Don is dead. So that was a setback which led to more delays and now here I am.
At this point, the head is reassembled and waiting for the injectors. I couldn't find the heat shields I thought I bought so ordered them online,-should be here in a couple of days. Now I'm cleaning up the block by running a thread chaser through the head bolt holes and prepping the mating surfaces. I made four dowels out of the old head bolts for positioning the head during installation. The Green book says to install the exhaust and intake manifolds before installing the head. That seems awkward. Today I'll work on installing the new timing belt, crank gear and dampener so that I can turn the engine back to TDC. It must've moved off the mark while I was removing the crank bolt?? So, that's where I stand. Hope everyone is doing well. Harry |
#4
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While the engine was in the car I R/R the head with the exhaust manifold detached but the intake manifold still attached. It was manageable with two people.
Main difficulty was that I made the locating dowels too long and made the head interfere with other components during installation. Like you, they were repurposed old head bolts. I cut them down further to ease the installation.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#5
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ngoma--I cut slots in the ends of the dowels to fit a flat tip screwdriver. Right now I'm trying to figure out how the coolant pump is used to adjust the timing belt tension.
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#6
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Yes, that seems to be the common method for fabbing the head locating dowels. My suggestion was just to not make them too long.
Two of the mounting holes in the waterpump are slotted in an arc, which allows it to pivotally swing in and out to tension and detension the TB. Don't make it too tight. Should be able to twist the TB almost 90deg by using just a few fingers.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t Last edited by ngoma; 03-11-2019 at 09:38 PM. Reason: Correction: Two, not one, slotted mounting holes. |
#7
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Got it. I loosened the three bolts but didn't get any movement. Guess I'll figure it out when I get to that step. Now I'm fabricating a counterhold (5187) for the dampener. Does anyone know the length of the extension arm of the wrench for the center bolt (5188)?
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