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  #11  
Old 02-05-2012, 07:51 AM
indestruktable indestruktable is offline
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I used your method of checking the IP timing, I'll explain how just in case I'm missing something
- Screw dial indicator into IP.
- Turn engine clockwise until dial indicator reaches lowest point/stops moving. I turned the engine until the dial indicator started moving again, then went back and set it to 0.
- Rotated engine until I was getting near TDC as indicated by the 0 on the flywheel.
- Once I was precisely at "0," I looked at the dial indicator and the timing seems to be about .101, which I know is high, but I don't think this should cause a no-start issue, correct?

I carefully removed the vacuum pump per your instructions to verify that I wasn't timed 180 off- the vacuum pump came out without any tension, so that rules that out.

More cranking, do I just have a really bad lost prime? I'm at a loss myself here... I feel like I'm missing something small but can't figure out what on earth it could be...
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  #12  
Old 02-05-2012, 09:35 AM
michaelovitch michaelovitch is offline
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It's a big advance and low temps will not help you to start it.

check if fuel is here loosening the injectors lines and crancking the engine.
if there is fuel check if your glowplugs work properly.

look here.

it's the basic method.

[video=youtube;FTXAm4P6nXU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTXAm4P6nXU[/video]


the easier is to adjust the pump rotating the cam sprocket only.
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2012, 04:49 AM
ian2000t ian2000t is offline
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Few things to try:

- To test if it is just too far retarded, get someone to try and start it while you manually hold the Cold Start lever in the forward (advanced) position.

- Are you sure your glow plugs are working? Mine randomly wouldn't start one day. After a fair bit of cranking it started half-firing, teasing me into thinking it would start. Turns out even though the glow plug light was coming on, the fuse had disintegrated on the underside of the relay and there wasn't 12V getting to the glowplug busbar.

- Check there is fuel coming through to all injectors by loosening the injector hardlines as advised above. If not, are you sure you have 12V at the fuel solenoid on the pump?
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  #14  
Old 02-21-2012, 07:10 PM
indestruktable indestruktable is offline
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Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been really busy with school.

It turned out that I had the IP timed way, way, way off. For some reason (don't ask why) I rotated the IP when the belt was off, and when I timed the IP I failed to align the notch in the pulley with the notch on the bracket. As v8volvo kindly and helpfully pointed out, I timed it correctly, but it wasn't phased correctly.

Now, I have done it properly (I think) by aligning all the notches, then backing up (counterclockwise) until the gauge reaches its lowest point/stops moving. Then I set it to 0. Then I moved forward (clockwise) to .97 and set it there.

Now, the notch on the pulley is NOT aligned with the notch on the pump - I'd say it's 3/4" to the right of the notch on the bracket, but I have followed the instructions to a T. So I'm hoping that when I put it back together it fires up.

If not, I'll go from there. Thanks for everyone's help!

And thanks for the link michaelovitch, but that procedure doesn't address the fact that the notch on the IP pulley wasn't matching up with the notch on the bracket. my IP was timed properly, but it wasn't phased properly.
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  #15  
Old 02-22-2012, 08:52 AM
indestruktable indestruktable is offline
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Success! I was turning the pump the wrong way - I actually thought that clockwise was backwards. Once I figured this out (duh!) I set the timing to ~.95 and it runs fantastic! A bit smoky, but I think maybe driving it a bit will fix that.

The only thing that is left unsolved - it still idles around 900 rpm which seems high to me. I thought that disconnecting the stuck cold start device would solve this, but it didn't. Is the idle speed adjustable, or how do I fix this?

I'm off to get plates and pick up a radiator cap (I lost it somehow) and then I'll post a video just for fun.

Thanks again for helping me through it!
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  #16  
Old 02-22-2012, 11:15 AM
indestruktable indestruktable is offline
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Added Update:

Drove it around town for a good 45 minutes to an hour, I can't believe how good it runs! The smoke went away after a few blocks of driving; now, I can only make out the faintest hint of grey but only if I floor it.

I'm quite happy with the results. And I think I got rid of most of the bigger oil leaks- there is no longer oil cascading down my alternator at idle! The previous owner had the dealer replace the entire turbo with a new one about 10,000 miles ago to try to stop the leaks- between that, the new vacuum pump that was installed at the same time, and this timing belt service, I think this thing might see 400k!

I'm definitely on the lookout for a clean 740/940/960 wagon to put this drivetrain in.
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  #17  
Old 02-23-2012, 04:56 AM
indestruktable indestruktable is offline
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Here's a short video at warm idle. It idles around 900-950rpm. The only things I can think of are that someone changed the idle speed (which wouldn't surprise me) or the idle speed is raised because my climate control is stuck on AC, despite the fact that the AC belt isn't even installed. I don't know if these cars have a mechanism that raises the idle when the AC is on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=725rU...5qLz2gdi9ZYZaL
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  #18  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:47 AM
michaelovitch michaelovitch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indestruktable View Post
Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been really busy with school.



And thanks for the link michaelovitch, but that procedure doesn't address the fact that the notch on the IP pulley wasn't matching up with the notch on the bracket. my IP was timed properly, but it wasn't phased properly.

the video i made show that all the marks must be aligned : pump pulley/ pump bracket/ injection pump.
it's at the beginning watch carefully .
if not that mean you are off 180 °
you're supposed to have a pin plugged in the pump bracket trough the pump pulley to avoid this mistake of dephasing.

you high idle is caused by your cold start device wich is failing the wax in it is leaking. but if you disconnected it and pulled the lever in the low idle position it's certainly the idle screw or the AC idle controller still switched on
check that first idle screw is supposed not to be touched and sealed yet.

look here for this stuff it's a switch.

http://www.scribd.com/michaelovitch/...Bosch-Ve-Pumps
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  #19  
Old 03-19-2012, 07:04 PM
indestruktable indestruktable is offline
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I thought I updated this thread earlier, but I guess I didn't. Thanks everyone for the help, I've put over 750 miles on the diesel and have loved every one of them. I've been averaging close to 30mpg, even with city miles. Still looking for a wagon to transplant the diesel into!

I wrote a post on my blog- included a link to your video michaelovitch, hopefully that's OK. http://www.upshiftblog.com/2012/02/i...ming-belt.html
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  #20  
Old 03-25-2012, 11:25 AM
michaelovitch michaelovitch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indestruktable View Post
I thought I updated this thread earlier, but I guess I didn't. Thanks everyone for the help, I've put over 750 miles on the diesel and have loved every one of them. I've been averaging close to 30mpg, even with city miles. Still looking for a wagon to transplant the diesel into!

I wrote a post on my blog- included a link to your video michaelovitch, hopefully that's OK. http://www.upshiftblog.com/2012/02/i...ming-belt.html

Thank you for the link
it makes me so proud of myself lol

No, really very classy blog Mr !
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