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Old 11-22-2017, 04:24 AM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Disassembly of 1984 d24

This motor came out of a Volvo 1984 240 blue color 3speed automatic usa edition sedan that was bought by a friend then swapped. The car received a Ford 302 engine instead of the diesel d24 nonturbo it had in the factory.
I will ask him to provide all details in case someone is interested to know. Also I heard that by now the swapped car is running well and it recently was offered for sale but Idk much about the build yet.

The future d24 power did not sound satisfying to the PO; or/and they didn't have the d24 specific tools to start with and couldnt manage to get it started at all...so it had to go. Also they did not have a diesel volvo before.
The d24 and bw55 tranny etc almost ended up junked but I bought it and picked them up in time.
Part of the story that he wanted cash asap PLUS a sixpack of Pabst BEER that was extremely hard to find in Long Island (and/because it was a holiday too) but I managed to get a 12pack instead so the motor came with the Greenbook manual and the radiator and some of the diesel related leftover parts.

Long story short, I bought it and took it home for a huge clean-up then a partial disassembly followed soon after (appr 2.5y ago).
The d24 was completely misadjusted but after all necessary precautions and inspections, proper timing, valves, electrics and fluids, injectors, glowplugs, fuel system clean-up, ip flush, belts etc... it started and finally was running smooth. It got painted by the dude who swapped the Ford in... in the colors of the German flag, respecting German VW engineeering. But as I said, they weren't successful starting it and gave up.

It ran nicely after it got very well adjusted but the results of *previous* improper ownership and/or lack of skilled maintenance both left marks inside and outside this engine.

It ran quite smoothly and i had a cooling system set up for it so I could have it running for a period of time for check ups and adjustments. It always started easily and Im guessing it had good compression and a good chance being very rebuildable but time will tell.

At the last start-up I had, I noticed bubbles sent through the coolant to the expansion reservoir so then, for safety, it was left "idling" on the engine stand for appr 2yrs with the exception of getting started for a quick minute, a few times every 3-5 months.

Let's see later what condition the cylinder head is in.

Is it going to be a fun project motor or a boring parts donor?
Disassembly started...
Here's a few pictures...stay tuned for the news... and let's hope the head is still flat enough.

Here is the video of the very first start up (not much manual bleeding happened lol)
https://youtu.be/7oz-8qPDv4U
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg Screenshot_2017-11-22-08-11-09.jpg (25.2 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot_2017-11-22-08-11-26.jpg (24.1 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot_2017-11-22-08-11-55.jpg (11.0 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot_2017-11-22-08-12-26.jpg (30.5 KB, 35 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 11-22-2017 at 05:10 AM.
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2017, 12:02 PM
Goteborg Vapenfabrik Goteborg Vapenfabrik is offline
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Nice illustrations. I read something interesting regarding 1.5 and 1.6 VW diesel heads in a catalog from Parts Place in Michigan. Instead of machining a warped diesel head they heat the head until it is in a "plastic" state. Once the head reaches the proper temperature they use a press to remove the warpage. This ensures that the centerline of the camshaft bore and head surface are parallel. I'm hoping for you that a new head gasket and more of your expert care will remedy the leakage. It's amazing how many write these engines off as junk when it's so important to have the right tools and help from this board.
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2017, 10:04 PM
volvo_d24t volvo_d24t is offline
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it's nice to see that you revived the motor

Did you make a complete overhaul? Which parts did you replace


Regards
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2017, 08:15 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default D24 1984 motor, head is stamped "83"

Quote:
Originally Posted by volvo_d24t View Post
it's nice to see that you revived the motor.
Did you make a complete overhaul? Which parts did you replace?
Thanks I only did the basic setups as suggested by the book then it started and ran nicely. Yes these cars often end(ed) up in the wrong hands...people who thought and believed "ohh diesels run forever!" Etc...
Add the rare& expensive tools, regular oil that was changed rarely, some lack of maintenance and all this immediately explains how the VW made d24(t) motor became infamous (especially in the usa).

My video shows the very first start after the basic refurb AND that was BEFORE I took the head off 2.5yrs later (last month).
I got busy with other projects so the thread will not receive updates like I originally wanted to do it.

In the meantime, parts are on the way, the head is off, getting cleaned and lots of measurements will follow. Im hoping to post it up soon. So far it looks like another very slow project.

Last edited by RedArrow; 12-02-2017 at 08:18 PM.
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2017, 02:34 PM
volvo_d24t volvo_d24t is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
Thanks I only did the basic setups as suggested by the book then it started and ran nicely. Yes these cars often end(ed) up in the wrong hands...people who thought and believed "ohh diesels run forever!" Etc...
Are you changing piston/rings, valve, bearings, etc...
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  #6  
Old 12-04-2017, 04:13 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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I disassembled the engine, head is off but I havent taken measurements yet. I havent got big nonturbo plans though... The two d24 spares are my engines to learn things on.
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2017, 08:02 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goteborg Vapenfabrik View Post
Once the head reaches the proper temperature they use a press to remove the warpage. This ensures that the centerline of the camshaft bore and head surface are parallel.
Nice idea. Is this a common practice somewhere? Can most of the warped heads get saved this way? I would like to hear about this trick...any videos available?
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:50 AM
Goteborg Vapenfabrik Goteborg Vapenfabrik is offline
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Im not sure how well known this cylinder head flattening process is. Parts Place cited the tendency of the four cylinder VW diesel heads to arch when overheated. The whole head then needs to be reheated and put in a press to rectify the warpage. If one had a warped and terminally cracked D24 head to practice this process on that could confirm if this is an option for the longer D24 head. Parts Place may be willing to share more information about the process.
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  #9  
Old 08-15-2018, 01:43 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Easy and inexpensive ways of a complete clean up of the d24 cylinder head.

In the previous post, I meant to say that I do not have big plans for the nonturbo d24 spare engines. I am keeping them just to get familiar with internal parts, repairs and assembly.

I have a question, though I maybe I already asked about it before. Probably in the other d24 disassembly thread (Resurrection of 1981 d24).

Well, long time ago I took all accessories off and got the engine apart, the cyl head is off now and partially disassembled.

What is the best solvent to use for a very good clean-up of the stained, oily, burnt, oxidized etc aluminum head?

Is it a good idea to have it soaking (submerged) in "petrol fuel"= gasoline? That worked great with the intake manifold, just a few hours of soaking in fuel took off EVERYTHING completely, inside and out, including carbon deposits, oil and all. (BTW, diesel fuel did not work well, at all.)

I know, it is flammable but is there any other disadvantage? Or, what is the best way of getting rid of all poop and prep the head for checkups, repairs?
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  #10  
Old 07-04-2020, 09:37 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default 1984 d24 from blue 244 car that received a 306 engine swap.

Today I rechecked this engine
because I wanted to take a picture of a part for Mrvos.
I also took off the storage cover to see `how it was doing`. I regularly do that. I add some motor oil on top of the pistons and turn the motor over a few times by the crankshaft, both directions, just to make sure it all moves inside for a few revolutions and oil relubricates the parts better than standing too long unmoved. (I`m not too happy about the cooling system `new` surface rust but that can be cured later on AND I`d like to ask questions relating how that`s done most efficiently)

About a year ago I didn`t go back to continue working on this engine because somehow I got busy then I got confused...
I thought, until now, that this was the d24 where cyl#1 had a bad head bolt thread discovered.

I checked my notes I wrote when the head came off. It was not this engine but another d24 I have. That day two d24s got their head off so somehow I mixed the info up.

This is some good news because it means that this d24 can have the cylinder head back on and get back to running condition relatively easily one day (easier without, than with fixing damaged headbolt threads).

The cylinder head of this 1984 d24 shows cracks between the valves and I need to check that for sure. If it isn`t too much out of the specs and if it isnt right near the waterways then that`d be good enough news for me to proceed.
I`ll get it out of storage and reinspect. I have the Volvo tools to measure it and... fingers crossed.

For now I filled the headbolt holes with diesel fuel and rolled the engine over plenty of times. I added a spoon worth of diesel on top of the pistons when I did that. It all moves freely and nice. I soaked some paper in diesel and covered the head with that and repacked it temporarily. Let the thing soak a little, hopefully it will be much easier to achieve getting the surface cleaned up better or easier. What an ape method there

I really need to get this back together.

Here`s a link to the video how it ran 4-5y ago when I took it home and set some things up to get it started again:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oz-8qPDv4U

Here`s another one where it runs well, it`s a coldstart BTW (well, in June, but engine was cold). It had some blowby but not very bad. Valves set, new plugs, manifolds off for new gaskets, intake cleaned, new oil new filters, pump removed & flushed then reinstalled & timed etc basic stuff, new oil pan gasket, orings at various places, new tstat, v.c gasket etc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rflixyiW5hk

The problem was that when warmed up, this engine would pump some exhaust gases into the coolant reservoir tank. I ran this for a few times dry without noticing... I only got to know about it after I set up a completed cooling system for this engine. I bled all air out but started seeing `air` again which was not air but exhaust gases. So that`s why after taking some videos of it running, the head had to come off and get inspected anyway. Well, that project really got `stuck` back then.

Soon, a project may restart to get it fixed up.
All accessories and parts have been removed and properly packed away and kept in dry storage, sealed up; so now it all depends on what condition the cyl head is in.
Here are the photos from today:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20200704_183914.jpg (880.6 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 20200704_183928.jpg (841.4 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 20200704_183945.jpg (656.2 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 20200704_184350.jpg (915.4 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg 20200704_184538.jpg (789.8 KB, 11 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 07-05-2020 at 10:03 AM.
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